Gabe. |
03-23-2019 04:37 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Germaneighter
(Post 10400956)
Sorry if my last post sounded harsh.
Gabe - sorry about your misfortune on this.
I once purchased a long block 2.4 T motor at an estate sale. The owner said it was tired. When I got it home I found it had dropped a valve and holed a piston. It was more than tired...it was in a comma...I'm still in the process of trying to wake it up.
Hope it all works out.
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All good! My fault for not getting the car inspected ahead of time. I probably still would have bought it anyways. Hope you got a good deal on that 2.4t motor!
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmcfaul
(Post 10400977)
could that be from jacking the car? I always fear this when I lift the back end of the car at about that exact spot.
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I doubt it, I'll find out more information when it's torn apart.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Harvey
(Post 10401167)
My advice before welding is to dowel the 2 halves together across the main webs and bolt the case together. Otherwise you may have a banana shape case half after finishing.
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Is it any better to weld it that way than with the short block assembled?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M
(Post 10401283)
Nah, it's not from jacking.
It's interesting that it's cracked through the drain plug boss and not around it as though a tapered thread plug had been installed and torqued to 11ty billion foot pounds
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Lol, those were my thoughts too. Could have been overtightened at some point and then had an impact...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Fricke
(Post 10401435)
Are the drain plug threads in the case buggered? A welding job could be finished with installation of a Helicoil for the proper plug. I did that on a well known aftermarket drain circle plate (previous style) with deep aluminum fins - the boss inside was only half a boss, so there really weren't enough threads to hold much torque. It is the seal ring which keeps the oil in place, not the threads.
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They probably will be after it's welded together. Can probably just be tapped after that rather than helicoiled though. Not sure there is enough meat to drill and tap a larger hole.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catorce
(Post 10401641)
Not sure why anyone would screw with a turd like this when my repro cases start delivering in June. Sure, there are 36 people in line ahead of you to get one but I sure as heck would want to wait to get a good case rather than repairing that one. Shameless plug, but that is what my cases are made for.
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Haha, believe me! I've been following your thread on rennlist for months (I have a 993 too). I'm not ready to do a more powerful build yet. I think the car would be too fast for me on a track and I want to learn with this one as I go. I imagine that I will go down that path at some point. Thank you for doing what you're doing!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 996AE
(Post 10401660)
JB Weld.
If its not leaky drive it like you stole it and wait until you need to formally address it.
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I think it's almost as easy to have someone tig weld it with the case together and is a more permanent solution.
Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted79
(Post 10401872)
"Not sure why anyone would screw with a turd like this when my repro cases start delivering in June."
Maybe because he'd rather spend maybe a couple hundred vs. $5K?
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At this point yes... but it'd also be nice to grab one of those cases for $5k now and sit on it for a future build than $9k in the future.
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