Cooling tin redo round 3 maybe?
 

After doing my cooling tins twice, I find I might need to revisit :mad: :cool:

I was not worried about doing the center piece modifications because the word was for post '77 the factory already did. Seems not to be the case for my '78.

I assumed maximum contact was desired with the fins on the cylinders. Seems not to be the case. So do '78 SC's need to have the cooling tin modified?

Looks to me like figure 5.2 pg 151 in Wanyes book (sheet metal installation para) is without the mods?

I have photos of the install on the 1,2,3 side. Looks like I need to get out my tin snips? Photos in next post

Photos of tin on 1,2,3 side without any modifications made.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567277735.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567277814.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567277930.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567278124.jpg

I assume after the tin snips modifications (not done in the photos) the cooling tin highlights in red would no longer be present,

Looks like the center double divider are installed backwards
Bruce

Hum, this will be easy they said, you can do it they said. LOL

I had them like you suggest, Bruce, but then swapped them thinking I needed to maximize the tin to cylinder fin area. Need to study my thermodynamics text. ;)

So the correct way would be to slide in as the arrow shows?
This tracks with what it shows in Bruce Anderson’s book.
No tin snips required. Seems counter intuitive because less tin on the cylinder fins.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567292984.jpg

Sure enough a more careful view of my before photos shows the way.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567293761.jpg

As an aside, I don't think the purpose of the tin is to absorb heat from the fins, but rather control and contain the air flow. So maximum contact with fins is not the point.

Air flow is correct, thanks for putting it in print. In defense of my errors, I put them in correctly first, then went back and read Wayne’s book which had much “gloom and doom” if the fins weren’t correct. Then it shows a picture which shows metal above the center fins. So I changed them (thinking they might act like heat sinks, which was incorrect). Interesting Wayne’s book shows the fins before someone got out the tin snips. (Fig 5-2 on page 151). Of course it also shows the correct orientation for an SC. Doh!

Anyway, I get the air flow, thanks for reinforcing this. And I’m now an expert in tin removal from this exercise and removing head and cam assym to check case/cylinder gasket width (another learning opportunity)!

Yeah I've had plenty of learning opportunity too..... in my case, all about wrist pin wire locks.

I'm a few steps behind you...