Small port 80-83. Blended in the guide area and ITB manifold blended/matched. This is the first small port/decent displacement motor we have built. Very happy with the results.

On the larger port motors, although very pleased with the power/tq, I would love to be able to play around with injector placement/throttle plate height etc...

I have seen too many different dyno plots of similar motors with a GT3 or 964 intake manifold on top of the ITBs with varying degrees of curves. I am not sure if we could get more torque out of this 3.4 with one of these manifolds. However, I would love the chance to play around with different manifold/cam/exhaust combos to see what is really there.

Everything we do we like to verify before we offer an opinion...

Cheers

Here is a 3.2 I built over 14:1 compression big cam big valve for a comparison.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1573246276.jpg

3.4 pump gas
 

not the best cam for this application but it is a good running motor the AFR gauge is only hooked up on one side. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1573249445.png

3.4 pump gas average exhaust 1 3/4" average cam
 

Their doing good work in BC, I couldn't get the pump gas dyno sheet to upload but I was just trying to share as results are similar. Nice work.

Looking good there Knightrace! A little lower AFR and some more power sitting there?

Tell us some more details about this motor!

Cheers

Yes, the dyno was break in and reference, fine tune after in car. dont know end result but seemed a little faster.

Seems like an amazing amount of performance from a 3.2... wow

Pretty good but not a chance it will run on pump fuel. Full race motor almost 6" rods. Thanks though, William

Very nice results Jeff and Knightrace!

Knightrace - I realize it may be part of the secret sauce, but any chance you’d be willing to share the cam grind used in that motor?

Knightrace knows what he is doing, there is no doubt of that. I can understand not sharing all the small details! Great work on his end.

Just ran my 3.4 ,46 PM),GE60, twin plug,1,5/8" headers( open) 10.5:1 JEhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1573559940.jpg

Be interesting to see what the new mods will produce ....50mm PMOs, GE80s 12.5;1 JE total seal rings 1.75 headers.
102 octane. will do .
Motor striped now.

When judging results of a motor build I look at the shape of the power curve to determine if I achieved the desired results. To me this is an ideal curve for a street driven 911. The power (torque) comes on strong 4K+ and stays there through redline. That flat curve in the proper working range is what I look for. Below 4K it’s not slouch either. Plenty of torque before it comes on the cam. Well done Jeff!

I see you’re working with John for Cams. I enjoyed my conversations/collaborations with him. By focusing on the before dyno curve we achieved exactly what I was looking for out of my build.

^^^ Thank you.

yes, john has been great to work with over the years. Torque is what makes these motors fun on the street and fun on track. Sure, we could get more peak power, but the power band gets a fair bit more narrow.

cheers

OK, I will share what the specs are on the motor, it is an average race build not off the charts. Heads were 3.2 heads with larger valves radian cut both. My 1 3/4" headers compression about 14.2:1 and the cams were 171/141 webcam Gt3 oil pump and rods were Carillo custom length around 6" but I cant remember. 70.4 stroke, 98mm cylinders. On numbers it is easier to get the small motors to make big HP per liter because of the short stroke it takes longer to stabilize vacuum in the intake runner and the effect of that is your peak torque number is higher in the rpm range. (TQ)(*RPM) divided by 5250 so HP numbers are a cumulative result of rpm. I am in the process of producing some heads that have already made over 130 hp per liter. They will be made on extreme castings. My piece of advice to guys building there own street motors is this. ALWAYS go with more stroke in your air cooled motor if it is a street or autocross car.. Please do not fall for the short stroke myth.. I know myth is a hard word but it only is important in race application where your above 5500 rpm all the time and have to run a certain liter for your class. This is my best advice I can give to anyone building a motor. William Knight

I should have followed your advice more keenly, William. Although, thanks to your design input and cam choice, I have an excellent engine, it could have been more; I had to fit a GT3 pump anyway, so should have fitted the 80.4mm crank. With the cost of all the work I had undertaken, it would have been relatively cheap at the time.

Great numbers for all these builds.


Now on to this snippet...

This deserves its own thread...

I am listening.

If anyone wishes to contact me for crankshafts. I stock up to 82.4 mm and factory motorsport 80.4 mm. KNIGHTRACE@MAC.COM
I also modify your crankshafts into a kit of mine and rods and pistons and 78.4 mm is very affordable if you start with a 3.2 crankshaft. my number is 615.969.4917 William Knight
example on a 3.2 I can have your cylinders made to 98 mm and there durable and the crankshaft to 78.4 mm and you have a 3.55 liter motor and it is a brilliant change and quite affordable.

I am with Jamie...

And yes, we will be in tough knightrace to talk some more! Thanks for adding to this thread!!

Cheers

Heads are going to be on the Super Veloce motor first I am pretty sure, I will let Taormina Racing release information on the new motor. William

Thanks William for sharing the motor specs. The new heads and the Super Veloce motor will be fantastic I'm sure, will be interesting to hear more about them.

I am glad to help anyone in the air cooled world..my email is knightrace@mac.com WILLIAMJOHNKNIGHT SKYPE AND 615.969.4917 I am out of the states often but I will email or Skype, I have WhatsApp. William Knight

What would be the max safe revs for a 3.2 -3.4 with std rods and ARP rod bolts/nuts.
Balanced engine je pistons.
Ti retainers DC80 cams, stronger valve springs.
On the dyno the HP still wants to climb past 7500. Race use onlyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1575286747.jpg

Values in KW ie 283 RWHP @6850
240 Ft lb @ 5350

I realize that you didn't ask this, but one thing that stands out on your dyno sheet is the sharp decline in power just over 7000 RPM, which seems to coincide with the AFR going very lean. Did your tuner/builder comment on that?

The throttle was closed at about 7,200rpm.

Yes the MSD rev limiter was set at 7500 and the soft limit seams to kick in about 7200 rpm

Slow car - I’m making some similar upgrades this winter to a 3.5, so I’m watching your posts with interest, as a preview of what to expect. Are the heads on your motor ported, or stock 3.2?

Scott

Hi Scott, the valves and heads are STD 3.2 just all matched ported intake ,gaskets and exhaust.
In the new year i will put the 1.3/4 headers on and the 50mm PMOs and re run the car on the same dyno.
Im going to bring the rev limiter back to 7200 for some safety.

Jeff,

I am about a year away from a rebuild on my SC, did that 3.2SS start out as a large or small port SC? That is serious power for a 3.2 I would love to have a motor land in that place.

^^^^ Geronimo,

Yes, the 3.2SS was a small port motor. Stayed a small port motor but we smoothed out the guide bosses. This motor is amazing, super fun, great power everywhere.

Cheers

Do you need the twin plug with only 10.5 comp, or is it a safety margin thing?

The theory is you need twin plug. We have never tried with single plug, but others may have.

Gotcha, thanks for sharing. Will be interesting to see gains from the bigger carbs and headers. May push the hp peak a little higher in the RPM range, but let's see.

Scott

Slow Car I looked up old dyno on clients motor as close as I could find. I will try to add it here the O2 sensor was only used on one side so ignore it. I ended up going to 43 mm chokes and the motor is exceptional. Do not port the 3.2 heads there good as they are and a larger intake valve will help. I will try to upload dyno sheet. The RPM limit is determined by valve springs and above 7K you need to cross drill the crankshaft and do slight mods to the case. 7500 for real short burst are ok. Thanks, William

3.4 10.5:1 120/104 Web Cam Dyno
 

Thanks, i'm trying to get a very rough outline of what I will need when I want to redo my engine. I really like the look of the 3.2ss, I think it would be a lot kinder to my new 915 making power little higher in the revs compared to larger set ups.

Nice to see you making good power from the small port heads too.

I have 46mm PMO (prev owner) on the car and have considered going ITB injection for better cold start and consistency.

I may PM you to get a sense on the cost of the 3.2SS you posted.

Thanks for the help guys

I you have 46 PMO's I have cams that will make them start in cold weather. If you have them use them. KNIGHTRACE@MAC.COM Thats, William
P.S. If someone gives me there email I will try and share the 3.4 dyno chart I cant get it to upload here.

Yea, I want to put together a plan that makes sense and gets me near that nasty 3.2ss in the most effective way. I'd rather not waste money, so measure twice cut once.

I think the 3.2ss makes the most sense for where I am starting from.

Thanks Knight, I am sure we will be talking in the future, your support here is always great!

Keep it up guys I love it.

3.4 Dyno
 

Here is a very accurate 3.4 pump gas motor TQ and HPhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1579563384.jpg

Hi Knightrace,
Thanks for sharing.
What revs are you at 29 degrees?
What compression Ratio?
Thanks