Pre-Assembly shortblock cleaning advice?
 

I wanted to get everyone's advice on how to properly clean the inside of the case, the crank, oil pump, etc... prior to assembly??

I've read a few suggestions, but nothing that actually states HOW to clean it.

I have some brake cleaner and a clean rag.... what else do I need?
What should I be cleaning exactly? and how should I verify if it's properly clean before assembling the block?


Any advice would be appreciated, as well as any pics that show points of interest that need to be carefully cleaned and inspected.

Everyone will have their own method, and there are sonic cleaners that I guess do a good job, but a pressure washer and some solvents as in brake clean. All of the threaded plugs come out and give all of the orifices a good hosing. I take the pump apart to clean and examine. Make sure all of the piston squirters are functioning and the oil bar in the cam housing is not plugged at one or more of the small holes. Mating surfaces cleaned with razor blade and small squares of scotchbrite, (not on a power tool). An oil bleed gallery up at the pully bearing should be clean. A fiber bottle brush where you can get to some of galleries. There will have been some coking and residue from its past life, but the flush should take care of most of that. Same with the crank and I am assuming this is not a blow up. If so, more care has to be taken. Bob

Bob's advice is good. What he hinted about is important. If it's a run of the mill overhaul because of time or leaks, clean with a power washer after hosing everything down with aluminum wheel cleaner and a stiff brush or three. The object is to get everything as clean as a dinner plate. Squeaky clean. Then use compressed air to blow the water out of everything. Do take out the oil pressure pistons and springs first after noting their locations.

If the engine has experienced a bearing failure, or a cam lobe has went flat, all of that metal gets lodged everywhere and a different approach is necessary. EVERY passage is suspect and needs to be cleaned. Take out all plugs, test or replace all squirters, if equipped, and throw away the oil coolers (just like it says to do in the service manual), and flush out ALL oil pipes. If you don't do all of that, any leftover trash goes right into your new engine.

Rags are not used internally on an engine because they tend to shed lint.

I've not had to deal with an engine failure (yet) so no large bits of metal etc.. so what I do is take the oil relief pistons and springs out, and I make sure all the parting surfaces are free of previous sealant using a clean razor blade and brake cleaner or gasket remover. This step is so important.. it has to be perfectly clean and you must not nick the aluminium with the blade either. I'll go around 3 or 4 times just to make sure.

I'll then send the case halves to be ultrasonically cleaned. When they come back, I still go and blow through everything with air and brake cleaner.
Then I will wash it again.. spray with degreaser, and use a high pressure hose. I always manage to get covered in water and have just accepted that every time I do this, I am going to be soaked.. I blast water through every opening possible. I make sure all the through bolt holes are blown dry.
Then I use compressed air to dry down the case.
Then I use brake cleaner to spray through all the through bolt holes and inside the case again and blow out using compressed air.

I then use the Stomski piston squirter tool and blow out all the squirters to make sure they are clear. I'll squirt some brake cleaner behind each one, and then blow using the squirter.. I do this several times.

Then I use a lint free clothe to wipe down the case with more brake cleaner.. and check the parting surfaces again to make sure there is no old sealant.
Once perfectly dry, I will wrap the case in plastic and store till I am ready for it.

Maybe I'm paranoid.. but so far, I have no leaks whatsoever.

Priorities...
 

When it comes to engine building, Cleanliness is a good bit ahead of godliness.
anon

Trackrash might be looking for a place to stay for a couple of nights!

Dishwasher and mom
 

When I was in high school, I had a 61 MGA. I was cleaning it up for a car show and was rebuilding and polishing up the SU carburetors and decided to do the final clean up in the dishwasher. To say that mom "was displeased", understates things a bit. I think I learned a few new words and was threatened with immolation or evisceration, can't remember which.
Tread very carefully through the kitchen.
Cautious,
chris
Sorry, no pics

Be careful of the wheel cleaner you get, some are etching and will remove material!! Stay away from one of the Eagle 1 products. I think it actually sates etching on the label.

Thanks
Mike G.

Actually, I think my wife was out of town at the time. What she doesn't know won't hurt her.

I do my next to final cleaning in the bathtub with tooth brushes and bottle brushes. By the time it hits the tub it has been extensively cleaned and degreased with degreaser and water followed by brake cleaner. Final is on engine stand with brake cleaner.

john

Well... I'll be starting on cleaning everything this extended holiday weekend.
I will start with a good cleaning with distilled water mixed with 'Dawn' detergent and a no scratch scotchbrite pad. Then rinse with distilled water... used compressed air to dry and wipe dry with kimwipes.
Then repeat and do again.. finally using some brake/carb cleaner on everything once more to make sure it is squeaky clean.

Does it help to mount the engine case half to the engine stand to perform cleaning?

I always use my parts washer with solvent.


Question for you guys using water: how do you make sure you get the water out of the piston squirter check valves?

I figured just spraying them with carb cleaner and compressed air would be enough?

I WISH I had a parts washer

Be careful with the parts washer. Unless it has an oil filter plumbed in, it has grit in the solution from whatever you've cleaned before. Even with a parts washer, I'd still use the jetter THEN clean it out with soap and hot water. Plug the holes in the case when you clear the water out of the squirters with your rubber tipped blow gun. You could use your fingers, but the air gets HOT instantly. Best to use some kind of plug. It takes a couple of plugs on the one side because of the way its oiled. You'll figure it out.

If you want the case to look as it came from the foundry, use the cast aluminum wheel cleaner. I use the cheap stuff from Walmart (Meguires?) or the P&S stuff if it's available.

I'm guessing you are talking about the OUTSIDE of the case????

Why not go buy one? You will use it a million times working on the car. Even out here in Eco-Commie psycho San Fran bay area I can get get the real stuff naptha based solvent easily. $13 a gallon, but worth it. In my experience a 5 gallon bucket will last long enough to clean everything on one 911.


Once you clean parts with fresh solvent, you will never want to use anything else ever again.

I thought you sent all the parts and pieces out to Arizona, they came back dirty?
Bruce

Actually both. But yes, the outside is what most people will see. There are other chemicals (over the counter, commonly available) that will make it look brand friggen new, but I'm going to post them in a public forum.

Yes... I sent everything to Ollie’s. But the parts have been sitting in my garage For nearly 2 years as I haven’t been able get started until now.

So some surface contaminants have found their way into the nooks and crannies of the case halves along with some dust and such.

Nonetheless, Ollie’s cleaned everything but when I received it, everything still needed to be cleaned because it wasn’t sealed in the box.