OK, sad to say I am just getting this done. Covid hit,and my employer said they were shutting down for 5 weeks. The last post here ^ was 2 weeks into the 5, when I got the call. "Get back NOW". We were 'essential" so I entered the second busiest working period of my life. We had major projects and I was slammed. Pay became an issue. So, enter a new job, and working my way up. Finally settling in at 9-10 hr days but pay is way up...phew.

THANKS to all who responded.
I've had parts sitting here and had forgotten how it all goes back together! Maybe I can find an online guide. I've been using andersons book, and workshop manuals. And Pelican threads!

So....getting the rocker situation back together was a bit of work. First, the cam spins super evenly, so I feel that the cam tower is flat and not twisted and the heads are all in their proper place. Good.

But the rocker shafts, some just slid in by hand, others were a tighter push. I ended up replacing three, just because one old one was pretty lame and I got a couple extras, and figured might as well use new. Ultimately I fit the rocker shafts in the holes they seemed to fit best, so that the forces to slide things in were pretty even.

One thing I really really wish Porsche had done was bevel the opening edges. It was a huge PITA and worry getting the RS seals in with out shaving them on the sharp square edge. I used a dentist tools backside curve to convince the seals to tuck in as I pressed the shafts in.

I also left off the cam chain housing (Contrary to the Haynes manual instructions) so that I could get proper purchase and the torque wrench on the 8mm flare nut. I'd ordered a bunch of those and their opposite partners flare "washers", and the 5mm bolts because I REALLY didn't want any boogered up allen openings after the battle I had getting them out.

Loosening up all the adjusters beforehand makes things easier. Getting the cam chain housing back on with the cam in place is one of those things that you are sure won't go....but then I found just the right angle and position and ta daaaaa.

There was some back and forth getting things just the way they felt best, so it took far longer than any Porsche pro would take, but that's fine. I wasn't in a rush.

Glad to have that aspect behind me. It was a worry. Now on to cam timing and end play. And hopefully soon, all the parts like the fan and housing that I did in home Cerakote finishes on get assembled. Hopefully it will be a respectable engine compartment. And run well!

I wish Porsche could have figured out this was a **** design already in 1965! The 993 rocker shaft design is so much neater. They would have saved a bunch of time in the production too.

Glad things and life sorted out themselves for you.

So, a couple tips for those who might be diving in to this aspect.
1- Figure out how you'll get the tools in place. It's tight.
2-You'll need to torque it, AND, you need to torque the Screw (5mm) NOT the 8mm tapered cap nut. So, get yourself q 1/4 drive lighter range torque wrench. Tool tip: Get a spare 8 and 5mm Allen wrench and cut off a short section of each. Then use 1/4" drive metric 5 and 8mm sockets where space is tight. OR, the Allen stubs and an open/box end wrench
3- Orientation: Since you need to torque the 5mm, make sure the tq wrench can get there, so for me that meant the 5mm screw was on the flywheel side for cyl 1 & 5, and #3 can go either way, so I just kept it the same. The 8mm on the cam chain housing end is tight, I used my stub allen and an open end to anchor it while torquing.
4- Positioning. So, the RS seals...they need to, you know, seal....so they need to sit in the web section of the cam tower. Note that the "web" section isn't the same thickness on either side of each rocker shaft, it's thinner on one side. Essentially, the rocker shaft should bei flush with that side, and the other end is recesssed in the fat web. This ensures the RS seals are in the right spot. If you try and center things on the shaft.....a natural inclination...the seals can be out of the web, and...won't seal.
5- RS seals are kinda O rings, but flatter versions. I used the preservative/lubricant recommended for O rings (elsewhere on this site, I'll check the actual product and update). You'd hope that would make them just pop right in. Ha...
6- Maybe in your world it's different, but Murphy lives next door to me and visits frequently, soooo, my cam tower holes for the shafts were likely out of round a tad, because some new rocker shafts really didn't want to go in certain holes. Eventually, I found the right combination of shaft/holes/assembly direction. I love puzzles! ha. In all that it's easy to get frustrated and start rushing, but....don't. THe RS seals can sit proud of the rocker shaft surface (hey, they are supposed to seal...) and...the openings of the holes are sharp 90s...soooooo, be careful not to shave off the RS seals when pushing things in. I used a dental tools softer back side to help then enter the hole.

TOP TIP: If you can, chamfer or at least break the edge of these holes on the side you will press the rocker shafts in from to ease the seals entry. In the videos I watched, they just shove them in and it's all nicey nicey. YMMV!

40 years ago you could remove the rocker shafts and very rarely had an oil leak when replaced. As the cam towers wore or were abused during disassembly, the RS seals became a necessity for a no leak rebuild. Thoroughly inspect the bores and test the shaft fit as Jake says, put the seals on and put it back together. The torque is critical to slightly expand the end of the shafts so that they can't rotate or walk out of the bores.

be careful when torquing. I used the upper range torque recommended here on the forum and on top of that had a suspect torque wrench as I found out when finally I checked it. Result was overtorquing and two crushed rocker shafts. Noticed because of oil leak. Some damage to one of the bores and hope I don't have to replace cam housing.

Oil leaks there suck!! Tough to fix in the car