Engine is stuck need help!
 

I let my 82 911SC sit for a year without starting. I had been quite ill. I go to start her and all I get was a 'bump', like it was stuck or the solenoid was 'clunking'. I got a new, non-reman starter and installed. Now the 'clunk' is a hard clunk, I guess the starter was indeed worn and the new one has force. My engine is stuck somehow. I removed the sparkplugs and first surprise was #1 cyl. is full of oil. Is that a valve guide seal?
I try moving the engine but it's not moving but a tiny bit. Please tell me what you think and what I should do next. I plan to remove the valve covers and checking there. I have never adjusted the valves since I've owned her. I have put only 20K miles on her and I could hear the tappets when I parked her last. Please anyone, i need advise on what to do next. Thank you.

Is the trans in neutral? Can you spin the rear wheels when the car is in the air?
Did you remove all the spark plugs and then attempt to spin the engine with starter or pulley bolt?
Disconnect your fuel pump relays to make sure you’re not hydro locking with gasoline.
Hard to imagine in one year of sitting your rings would stick to the cylinders so firmly that you couldn’t spin the motor, but I guess it’s possible. Some atf or sea foam in each spark plug hole and a night of sitting might help cut through if that’s all it is.

Your cylinders filled up with oil from sitting for so long. Take all spark plugs out and try to turn over.

911 Slant
Thank you sir! Asw soon as I read your comment I knew it was the answer. i removed all plugs and made sure everything was safe and she cranked over...wait! She more like spun her heart out! I am so happy. Pure Logic. If you tell me your favourite restaurant I will buy you dinner. Again, Thank you. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1592253886.jpg

I'm so glad it worked out for you
I'm just paying it forward. I have been helped myself many times from others on Pelican. I hope your feeling better and enjoy your car. God bess!

car color
 

Great color on your car.Fred

I love that about this forum, you help each other and it's an honor for everyone

I have a fresh SC 3.0 in a 914 and it leaks all the oil down into the sump in about 2 weeks of sitting, I just installed a rennsport oil check valve. I installed it and filled the tank, but weather was crap so it was at least 6 weeks till I started it, oil level in my tank never dropped.
IMO The Rennsport oil check valve is expensive, but is a well made product.

Thanks Mark. Do you ever worry about the check valve failing in the closed position? I always thought the product a great idea...except for the worry mentioned above.
Also, it is summer, and I get to drive my teener!

I have a problem with my babie. My car sat for 3 years as I was quite sick and didn't give a damn. Anyway Im better now and want to drive. She had hydro lock and I removed all plugs and fixed that. I go to start her and she keeps blowing #6 fuse. The fuel pump had only a couple of years of use before she sat but I figured she might of clogged up and put a drag on the amps. I tested amp draw but may have got that wrong. She is a 82 SC with no mods. I need help!
I replaced fuel pump and watched fuse #6 turn red and pop...again! I checked the old f.p. and it worked fine.
I also replaced the relay even though the old relay worked.
Tell me the correct way to check amp draw please. I removed the relay and touched leads to 87 and 30, nothing. Turn key on and hear pump and got a reading of 24-26. install relay and start car with leads on #6 fuse, top and bottom and got reading of 4.5 then the fuse gets red hot and blows. Please what is wrong? Where should I check next?

It was stuck...
 

She's still blowing #6 fuse. I made a post earlier outlining the problem. Here it is again and I hope you have an idea or two to spare.
I removed the plugs and turned the key and let her spin a couple of times, no more more than 5 times in total. I put new plugs in, new cap and rotor and turned her over w/o the coil line attached. Attached coil line and she fired right up! then after 5 seconds she died. I discovered the #6 fuse (fuel pump) was blown, a big blow, you know what I mean...I did a 'shake' on the wires I could shake. replaced fuse and started her again, she ran for about 10 seconds now, then blew. I checked amp draw by putting leads in 87 and 30 in the relay socket to check relay with key off, 0, with key on 24 amp. With the high reading I figured I'd replace the fuel pump. I STILL get a high reading and a #6 blown fuse! I am now going to check all my grounds. If you have any ideas please let me know Thank you.

Fuse number.........
 

Mike,

Are you counting the fuse location from the front to the rear or from rear to the front? The fuse for the SC fuel pump is designated as FUSE #16 (fuse #1 closest to the front bumper). So it is the 16th fuse from #1.

However, if your counting from the wrong end, it is the 6th fuse. You need to use terminals #30 & #87a to test the FP amperage and not #30 & #87 (these are for the starter).

Tony

No and I can't see how it could, the valve is a very lightly sprung cone, even if the spring broke it would be left in the open position. The cone is centered on a bushed shaft, which is of course always in oil. I see zero difference in oil pressure, the idiot light goes off just as fast, plus the size of the body I can't see the area being a bottleneck.

Another added bonus is I no longer need to have the engine running and hot to check the oil level, BUT I did check both ways till I was comfortable with this. Not running it shows about 1/4"-3/8" less than running on a 914 oil tank.

For the 914 and early 911 get the smaller hose size, the actual body size of the valve is the same size for both the large and small hose sizes.

Tony, omg! I used the cover as my guide as the embossed letters are still legible. 6th from the rear of the fuse block. I didn't count from the front but it's the same one.
DAMMIT!!! i USED 87 to 30! I shall go and test it properly but now I have installed a new fuel pump. Thank you sir!