83 911sc Euro Parts Identification Help

[William Miller]

First, I ordered the book and am waiting for it!
Some background before some questions:

I bought this car a little more than a year ago. It now has 252,000 miles on it. I have driven it regularly as I have been solving many of it's problems.


Fortunately / Unfortunately the previous owner had a rebuilt motor (Long Block) installed in 1996. The Engine code was /is 930/16. SN 64C1591.
With research here and all over the web I learned that this a 1982 US version Block. The Euro Fuel Injection parts remained on the car with this rebuild and later were slowly replaced with the wrong US version 80 and later Fuel Injection Parts. The previous owner became frustrated with the car and sold it to me. Cheap.
(That's relative)

I did a compression check at the time and all cylinders were between 180-185psi.


Anyway, I've spent the last year learning and correcting the CIS (Wrong Part) problems. Euro parts are hard to find so Most of the CIS parts are 79 version US Replacements.

The engine was better, but still not right. Recently I had to prepair for the Maryland emissions test. Assuming I had ignition problems because it felt like it was missing, I replaced the usual tune up parts. Plugs, Rotor, Cap, wires. I also replaced the green pick up wire from the distributer to the Permatune. (It was bad too.)
With this done I went to a local shop and had the mixture set (I had it very rich.) He lent me his cat. I passed the test. Now we could consentrate on the problem. The ocilliscope showed the primary circuit good, but on the secondary circuit #4 was weak.
After a lesson on what that could mean he lent me his leak down tester.

That weekend I did both compression tests and leak down tests with the engine warm. The results indicated that all cylinders but #4 were 180-185psi and 97psi or better on the leakdown test.
#4 showed about 145 psi compression and about 50 psi on leakdown.

A few days later I found the top ring in #4 broken. The cylinder and head look perfect, except for carbon buildup (Probably from running rich so long.)

I have not opened up the other cylinders because the leakdowns on them were so good.
At this point I am deciding my course of action.
From what I know this engine has about 65,000 miles on it.
It does have pressure chain tensioners. It also has the newer camshafts with the bolt holding on the sproket.

As I have done with the Fuel injection, I am documenting what parts I am finding aling the way and trying to identify what and why they are in this engine.

Cam Shaft # on end of shaft 930 148 10 (Three # missing I think are 105 meaning I think the full number is 930 105 148 10)
I have looked this up on the "Pet" software which indicates it is an update and I think also used up until 1989.

Cam Tower# 930 105 111 0R ?
Head: 930 104 328 3R I can't find this anwhere.
Piston: KS 1275 2 0951622 +
Cylinder: KS 885/3a with a squiggly X

Can anyone Identify these numbers and if the numbers can tell me anything?

Other questions: I have fixed the usual suspects for oil leaks.
The leak is comming from the top. I replaced the oil pressure switch but didn't notice until the engine was out that there is an adapter below the switch because the hole in the block is bigger.
I looked this up with an old part reference to A12x18 which I think was an o-ring. It has been updated to part # 90012310130 What's there now is an aluminum or alloy washer. Maybe a squish washer like on the cam covers? Can anyone confirm this. I also suspect the oil breather hose. The extra blow by from the broken ring was probably pressurizing the crank case. Has anyone had this leak before?

When removing the exhaust on this side I was able to get the barrel nuts off by heating them with a torch. One of the other nuts came off. One whole stud came out and one stud broke with about 3/8" sticking out. All of them were too long and I don't know why. Who ever installed the heat exchangers drilled out a nut and used it as a fat washer to take up the extra space. I am mentioning this because maybe it helps identify the odd part numbers on the heads.

I'm not sure I should replace them for fear of creating much more work. (More broken studs).

I bought two types of stud remover toold at sears. One was made by Leslie the other unidentified. The leslie id hammered Lightly over the remaining threads cutting a star shaped pattern which grips the stud. The other is a round tool with a hole in it about 1/2" this had another piece and grips with sourt of a cam action (sort of the way a pipe wrench works.) the more you turn it the harder it grips.

Anyway I had a minute to try tool #1. It grips ok but the stud is starting to twist. I heated the head arround it with the torch. Not too much. No good. I felt the head a few seconds after doing this and it was not much more than warm. Is the heat being dissapated faster than I am applying it? I only had a few minutes on Saturday to fool withit so I left it after spraying a lot of WD40 on it.
What's the secret? Am I going to have to drill it and use the easy out?

Any help will be appreciated!

[William Miller]

I recieved the book last night.
It will probably answer many questions.
I did look up some of the part numbers in the back.
The Piston and Cylinder are Porsche numbers (Of Course)
I guess I need a cross reference from the KS number to the Porsche number.

Is KS short for Kolbenschmidt? I saw this name as a reference to different ring part numbers for Kolbenschmidt pistons. It looks like the same dimensions for the Mahle pistons and this Manf. but the part numbers are different.

The Cylinder head part number I found on the head is very different than any listed in Wayne's book.
Any help please.

I saw 17 people read but no response.
Am I asking too much at one time?

I tried heating the head to get the exhaust stud removed with the stud remover. It moved a little and It finally broke off flush.
I was using a yellow MAPP gas bottle. I searched more on the BBS. The MAPP was hot enough to get most of the nuts oof the studs but maybe not hot enough to get the stud out of the head.

I'll look and see what the book say's now that I have it!

Please help, anything will be appreciated!

[Wayne 962]

Hi William. Lots of questions here - take a look at the book as most are answered there.

KS is Kolbenschmidt. There are different Alusil and Nikasil replacement rings. In reality, your KS cylinders and pistons are probably shot. Read the section in Ch 3 on these. The part number on the cyl head is actually a casting number - not a part number. No cross reference exists as far as I know (I'm sure they have one at the factory though). Measure the ports, you probably have an 80-83 head on there. Compare it to the numbers in Appendix A.

Don't remove the exhaust studs unless you absolutely need to. Heating them doesn't help really because they have already been heat cycled by the engine many, many times. Hmm, re-read your post, are you talking about cylinder head studs, or exhaust studs?

If you compartmentalize your questions, it's makes them easier to answer...

-Wayne

[William Miller]

I recieved the book, I read a lot of different parts.
The studs I was refering to were the exhaust studs.
I have only removed the one side Cyl 4-6.
I have only removed #4 head and cylinder.
I don't want to disturb the rest because the leakdowns were great. 97-98 on the remaining 5.

The cylinder and piston have no dammage. I think the wear is minor but I will need to measure. Using a ruler the piston an cylinder are 3- 3/4"
This is not very precise but converts to 95.25 MM (At least in the ballpark)
I also will measure the ring side clearances.

Where the rings stop at the top of their stroke there is almost no wear. (lip) There is a little carbon build up.

Your book indicates not to remove the piston from the cylinder.
This engine was rebuilt recently and My guess is that asside from this one ring the rest is in very good shape. BTW the Head studs look new. They are coated or painted black the only expsoed part are the threads which look like normal steel.

I'm thinking / hoping this is a repair job, not a rebuild. I know there is risk. What are your thoughts / suggestions about the risks and ways to reduce it.

Great Book By the way!