Turbo oil pump sealant

[Steve G]

Does anyone know this glue/sealant used on the pickup to case junction of the turbo oil pump?

Mine is cracking off, probably should replace before re-installation.

[Steve G]

anyone?

['78 SC]

Google this:

pick up tube epoxy siteelicanparts.com

Let us know what you decide.

Er, that's a colon between words site and pelicanparts.com

[Flat6pac]

I wouldn’t epoxy it until you placed it in the case for correct location.
Bruce

[Steve G]

Thanks for your replies, as it is slightly loose i will remove it fully and replace the adhesive.
From what i can see it was originally fitted with a high temp epoxy resin type adhesive, JB is rated to 288DegC ( 560f ) so it should be comfortable enough to replace.
I see one guy also swaged it back in with some ball bearing and ramp contraption, I'll check it out when i clean it up, maybe its possible to do both.
I'll post some pictures when i do it.....and I'll probably remove the guts beforehand and do it with an empty case.

[Steve G]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

I wouldn’t epoxy it until you placed it in the case for correct location.
Bruce

I fully agree !!

['78 SC]

If you disassemble the pump, mark the rotors and reassemble everything with the same engagement. Make sure it all turns freely.

[Steve G]

Originally Posted by '78 SC

If you disassemble the pump, mark the rotors and reassemble everything with the same engagement. Make sure it all turns freely.

Just disassembled, correct engagement noted! Thanks

[Steve G]

Easy to dismantle, you can see all the epoxy residue.
Plan....remove old epoxy, re-plate the pickup tube along with the other 5 kilos of nuts and bolts and reassemble.
I will skim a couple of thou off the centre-plate just to clean it up also.

Apparently i have it on good authority from another source that it's JB-weld for the pick up and 6ft/lb with loctite 270 for the nuts/studs

['78 SC]

Originally Posted by Steve G

...
I will skim a couple of thou off the centre-plate just to clean it up also.
...

I can't visualize exactly where you intend to remove material, but the clearances between the ends of the rotors and the case are very close. This is to prevent oil from by-passing and reducing pump performance. Anything that changes the overall case internal length will need corresponding corrections to the length of the rotors (or the interior of the case thickness), or the rotors may bind in the case.

[Flat6pac]

Send it out to supertec to get it inspected, flowed, assembled
You have too much work into everything to have a pump in the bottom that won’t be the best and you have to start over.
Bruce

[Steve G]

Originally Posted by '78 SC

I can't visualize exactly where you intend to remove material, but the clearances between the ends of the rotors and the case are very close. This is to prevent oil from by-passing and reducing pump performance. Anything that changes the overall case internal length will need corresponding corrections to the length of the rotors (or the interior of the case thickness), or the rotors may bind in the case.

The centre plate is flat, what is critical is the dept of the cases that hold the rotors in relation to the length of the rotors themselves, I'm not touching these parts. Skimming the plate will just affect the overall length of the pump but by a negligible amount and as the shafts apertures are open it will not make any difference at all.

I've already got it back in the case without the internals in order to get the pick up bonded back to it's case.

[Steve G]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Send it out to supertec to get it inspected, flowed, assembled
You have too much work into everything to have a pump in the bottom that won’t be the best and you have to start over.
Bruce

Thanks for your concern, i've got this!!

[Mark Henry]

I use Hysol Loctite 9340.

[Steve G]

Originally Posted by Mark Henry

I use Hysol Loctite 9340.

Thanks Mark, any particular reason?

[Mark Henry]

Originally Posted by Steve G

Thanks Mark, any particular reason?

Because I have it, I've used it for years, it's high heat and a good epoxy for the job.

I don't surface the center, I do spec the halves/clearance and will surface them if needed. I inspect and/or replace the bushings. I also DFL coat the inner chambers, PITA to do it right as you have the mask them well.

[Steve G]

Originally Posted by Mark Henry

Because I have it, I've used it for years, it's high heat and a good epoxy for the job.

I don't surface the center, I do spec the halves/clearance and will surface them if needed. I inspect and/or replace the bushings. I also DFL coat the inner chambers, PITA to do it right as you have the mask them well.

Thanks Mark,

I have normal wear marks on pressure side but some heavier scoring on the other, will just clean it up.
I'm not junking a $1400 pump for a little scoring on the scavenge!!
Tell me, what are you using for DFL?
I've already re epoxy'd the tube using JB, i'm happy that the temperature performance is ok. I cleaned it up and degreased with MEK and then laid it in the case with the strainer for support, i'm happy with that.
After its properly cured i'll remove any excess inside the chamber before i rebuild.

[Mark Henry]

You have a 930 pump, I don't use the DFL (Dry Film Lube) on the steel half. I use Tec-Line DFL.

[Steve G]

Does anyone know what the material is around the end of the dowel pins?
When the pump was removed the pins were migrated about 5 - 10 mm out of the case. They drifted them back in no problem but i wonder if there is some product that is supposed to be here?

[Mark Henry]

Likely a factory loctite type product, any loctite will work.