Engine ID HELP!
 

I have a 73 911T. It does NOT have the original engine in it. I have had a few oil leaks under it that were coming from the lower valve covers. I read that the cars were notorious for this and purchased Rennline billet covers and new gasket set for both upper and lower sets. Gaskets appeared to be same pattern as the ones on the car. I installed them and was told by tech support to torque to 12-15lbs. When I test drove the car oil was pouring out around the lower covers around 2-3 nuts on each side. After reading 101 project book, it suggests to apply 5.9ftlbs. I am not sure, but my guess is Ii distorted the gaskets and need to replace them.

Question 1). I have a engine number 6401514. I do not think this is a 911T engine from 1973. I believe it is a 3.2 Carrera??

Also the number stamped on engine just above the lower valve cover is 930.105.111.OR


Can you guys tell me the best valve gasket to use, what to torque the nuts to, and what engine I actually have.

I ordered the valve covers for a 1973 911T, and the covers seemed to fit.

Please help!!SmileWavySmileWavy

There should be more numbers stamped near those engine numbers. Something like 930/13.

The number above the lower valve cover tells us the casting number of the cam carrier.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/597594-matching-numbers-car.html

Scroll down for the pics.

That number is for a 1983 911SC 3.0
I like the gaskets that have silicone bead on them.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/9301051950198.htm?pn=930-105-195-01-98-INT&SVSVSI=911M&DID=15331

Actually, 6401514 is a 1980 911SC Type 930/07 for North America with 180 HP
You really need to know precisely what you have before ordering parts.

This is correct, please disregard my previous post....64D is 1983 640 is 1980...i really need to put on my glasses while looking this stuff up......

Your engine came with the later exhaust valve covers (the 930 part number), with more than the 6 studs the long departed T motor had.

Valve cover stud torque is not critical. The guy who rebuilt my SC motor used a low torque (nuts loosened immediately using a stubby socket wrench). I put a bit more torque on them, but not with a torque wrench. It doesn't leak. I think very few mechanics use a torque wrench for this job - waste of time and effort.

The higher torque you faithfully used can't possibly have distorted anything.

On the older cars with the 6 bolt exhaust cover, when a leak started the tendency was to tighten the nuts more. But that tended to distort the valve cover, making the problem worse.

The much more rigid 930 covers don't distort easily, if at all. But your Rennline covers use an entirely different gasket system than what you took off.

Pull the valve covers and look at what went wrong. If I read you correctly, the leaks are from the joint along the bottom, in the area between a couple of the middle studs, and not around the studs through the nuts? Both sides is concerning, as getting something accidentally wrong on both sides should be less likely than just on one side.

I suspect you will find something out of place or pinched on one of the rubber inserts.

Oh - to pull exhaust covers with oil in the system, jack the car up as high as you can on one side, insert jack stands, put a rag over the exhaust system, and pull the cover. You won't lose much oil that way, as it is all over on the other side of the engine. One hopes it isn't just pouring out that side.

When done, lower and work on the other side.

Saves draining the oil and then replacing it.