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And if you live in a non Emission restrictive Area in the US you can even get the most out of it by removing the Cat and switch to a SSI based system where the Lambda system is still connected AND working at closed loop. Also switch to high octane Premium Gas and set the inital ignition to +5-7°, means at 900 RpM idle to approx 10-12° and set cam timing to 0.9-1.1 ROW spec. And I promise you, you wont feel ANY difference to a ROW 930.10 engine with 204HP. The mixture regulation here is even more advanced/better seen under the point of view of combustion quality, optimal mixture efficency at cruise AND accel., gas comsumption etc etc etc. |
Thanks for a great list of comments.
I am staying original, with the 2.2 magnesium case and over 200,000 MILES and still driving in Europe, and it looks like I have been following Faapgar's regime for 50+ years: "The best long life motor comes the best owner.Start car drive away easy & do not jump on it until you get to 180 oil temp. After driving like you should go easy for 5 minutes before shutting down.Change oil per schedule and do not miss a shift.Happy motor makes long life.Ciao Fred" I did have some shift problems and a little old retired super expert rebuilt my gearbox, and tweaked a variety of unasked things, body, suspension, MFI. Just now replaced rear Konis from 1974 with Bilsteins. She now runs great in all ways and I can face the Belgian tech control next spring with no fear and only mild cheating on the CO check. 17 mpg around town sux, but just over 20mpg at 100mph on the Autobahn is lovely. |
Originallly the question was reliability.
Hands down, we saw more 3.0 engines cross the 240,000 mile marker without a need for a major engine or fuel injection repair. The main issue with the 3.0 (every version) was the Dilivar studs breaking. It was common but not guaranteed. As for the CIS. It is indestructible as long as it doesn't inject fuel contaminates. |
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