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Yep. If the engine were already broken in and you were just installing new cams, new rockers, or both, I would have no issues with running the engine at ~2000 RPM for 15 to 20 minutes. Personally, I would break in the cams and rockers by driving the car or on the dyno if I were going to tune it but that is just me....
But, we have a new build here. So you have to take both the rings and the cams/rockers into account. Doing what I suggest above does just that. |
I'm in Camp-Scott on this.
As I understand it the cams "break in" during the first 15-20 minutes and the high idle, 2000+, is to ensure that there is enough oil flow to lubricate it. That does not exclude that the cam-break-in will also happen during the piston ring break in... *Warm up *Check for leaks *Flog it, dyno or street, just keep it above 2000 rpm for the cams :) |
OK - So maybe a bit further detail on the build, as well as a possible plan of action:
3.2SS with new Mahle motorsports P&C. New web cams, cgarr resurfaced/rebuilt rockers. Twin plug, electromotive ignition, 46mm PMO. I've broken in a few racebike motors on the dyno, but those are all shim under bucket valvetrain setups. With so many new parts on this motor, and on the car in general, I'm thinking to let it high idle for 10-15 minutes ensuring that everything is running appropriately, no leaks no other running issues. I then want to dump that oil before running in the motor on the dyno. This is effectively what we did on the race motors, getting them up to temp then changing the oil before running them hard on the dyno. |
I used to race bikes and had plenty of rebuilds done with new cams. Shim under bucket designs have the same issues as rocker and flat tappet setups....well more like flat tappets than rockers.
We never let race bike engines just idle. We did pretty much what I have suggested for you. Don't let is idle at 2000 RPMs for 15 to to 20 minutes. Think about the the rings too..... |
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We want to get load on an engine as soon as possible for ring seating purposes. I get this topic can be beaten to death. But we will never run an engine with no load for 20 mins with new cams and rockers..... If you do otherwise, please tell us what you do, and let us know the results. Cheers |
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Thanks all.
After plenty of thought and speaking with a few others, we are not going to do the 20 minute high idle. I'll be running the car only so long to determine if there are any oil leaks. Once confident of that, will trailer the car to be broken in on the dyno. Jeff Alton has been kind enough to refer me to his dyno operator. I think this is the safest solution to ensure the motor is broken in properly without leaving me stranded somewhere if there are any issues. The car is a full soup to nuts rebuild with literally every part on the car either rebuilt or replaced. The only thing that isn't new, rebuilt or refurbished is the front blower motor and dash hvac controls. |
In case anyone cares, I'll be using Motul 10-40 Break In oil.
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Keep the revs up to ~2000 RPM while checking for leaks....
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break in procedure
As always a lack of knowledge breeds fear.Ciao
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Amen Fred!
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Fokker, I'm a couple of months out from startup. How'd everything turn out with yours now that you're a couple years in?
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Car's not finished yet, but it will be broken in on the street.
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I'm days away from this and it's got me kinda worried where I was once confident http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1737980480.jpg
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