New engine start up question

[Lyndon302]

My 2.0L has been rebuilt. ( Cases apart )
On start up do I need to drain the oil and change the filter after a 20 min run
( I do not have new cams ).
My thinking. The filter will filter perfectly up to 1000kms.
At the best drop the oil at 20 mins of running on the hoist. ( Or less before I drive it and bed the rings in )
( I have some cheap 15 / 40 and 20 / 50 in my garage that I'm going to start it with. ).
It will has a big service at 1000 to 1500 KMs
Oil. Filter. Valves.
Thoughts
Lyndon

[ahh911]

Can't answer, but best of luck! I think there are all sort of methods out there. pick one and thumbs up.

[faapgar]

If your rings are new you need a non detergent oil or the rings will not seat.I usually run the oil for 3-400 miles then do a leakdown test.Fred

[Lyndon302]

Castrol GTX. ?

[winders]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

My 2.0L has been rebuilt. ( Cases apart )
On start up do I need to drain the oil and change the filter after a 20 min run
( I do not have new cams ).
My thinking. The filter will filter perfectly up to 1000kms.
At the best drop the oil at 20 mins of running on the hoist. ( Or less before I drive it and bed the rings in )
( I have some cheap 15 / 40 and 20 / 50 in my garage that I'm going to start it with. ).
It will has a big service at 1000 to 1500 KMs
Oil. Filter. Valves.
Thoughts
Lyndon

https://youtu.be/5Ruk6GLJgbA

[OSC911]

I usually change the oil after the initial start up - say 20 minutes or so depending on the engine and if the cams require running in. I use a cheap non synthetic 20w/50. I drain it, replace the filters and use a a quality running in oil for 1000km or so. I’ll then use a high quality non synthetic 20w/50 oil for a couple of thousand. Up to you if you go to a full synthetic or not after that. I stick with Brad Penn 20w/50 non synthetic but up to you. I think the most important thing is the initial oil and filter change and then a quality running in oil. From memory, you are in Australia also so you can access Penrite running in oil which is what I use. Just be mindful not to go to a synthetic oil too soon.
Cheers
Todd

[Lyndon302]

After waiting 5 weeks for a new cooler it's running.
Post build thoughts.
My engine had good heads but the barrels and rings were worn so it's a bit hard to judge but ??
I have fitted JE pistons and Pauter rods. These are the only improvement on performance.
Its night and day. Revs so freely and smooth. Its another step up.
I can highly recommend these.
I just started it and drove it to bed the rings. After 500kms I will drop the oil and filter. Do another 500. Oil and filter. Valves. Timing. And set the carbs.
Done 300kms now it goes nice and hard.
Thanks lyndon

[winders]

After 300kms, it's run in if it ever is going to be.....I'd dump the break-in oil now and check the valves at 1000kms and be done with it.

The only "wear in" item here is the rings and cylinder walls and they are already worn in.

[Lyndon302]

So synthetic at 300 KMs

[winders]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

So synthetic at 300 KMs

Yep!

[AVI_8]

300 kilometres, that’s only 186 miles, personally I’d run the break in oil longer than that it’s not as though break in oil doesn’t provide adequate lubrication, yes the majority of the break in happens in the first 100 miles but the process won’t be complete then.
I’d change the oil after the initial start up then again at 500 miles then go synthetic at 1000 miles, thats 800 and 1600 Kilometers. That would keep clean oil in the engine as much as possible.
But each to their own I suppose.

[Lyndon302]

Scotland.
You must be cold 😁

[winders]

Originally Posted by AVI_8

300 kilometres, that’s only 186 miles, personally I’d run the break in oil longer than that it’s not as though break in oil doesn’t provide adequate lubrication, yes the majority of the break in happens in the first 100 miles but the process won’t be complete then.
I’d change the oil after the initial start up then again at 500 miles then go synthetic at 1000 miles, thats 800 and 1600 Kilometers. That would keep clean oil in the engine as much as possible.
But each to their own I suppose.

The engine is broken in in less than an hour.....that include the cams/rockers and the rings. There is nothing else to "break-in".

Never let the engine just idle while breaking it in. Vary the load and the RPM over the first hour and keep it above 2000 RPM. This will break-in the cams/rockers if they are new and will vary the ring pressure against the cylinder walls. You don't want to overheat the rings with constant high loads.

[AVI_8]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

Scotland.
You must be cold 😁

Well I’m sitting in front of my toasty log burner with a beer but yes my new workshop is barely above freezing ……. Hence why I’m not out there finishing the electrics so that I can get it signed off and start using it for its intended purposes (with a big heater) 😉

[Lyndon302]

Wow. I can't even begin to imagine that.
My garage has a swampy for the hot weather and gas for when it gets cold.
Beer sounds good but.
Lyndon
P

[AVI_8]

Originally Posted by winders

The engine is broken in in less than an hour.....that include the cams/rockers and the rings. There is nothing else to "break-in".

Never let the engine just idle while breaking it in. Vary the load and the RPM over the first hour and keep it above 2000 RPM. This will break-in the cams/rockers if they are new and will vary the ring pressure against the cylinder walls. You don't want to overheat the rings with constant high loads.

Scott, yes I’m aware of how to break in an engine, I was a mechanic a long time ago and I know there is a narrow window of opportunity in order to get the rings broken in properly.
The way I’ve broken in engines in the past was to (once it’s up to temperature) vary between full throttle and trailing throttle as much as possible but limit RPM for the first couple of hundred miles (4000 ish) then gradually increase RPM over the next few hundred miles through to max RPM.

During my training I was told to refresh the break in oil at 500 miles then remove it at 1000 miles, but I’m an old git so maybe that’s not the recommended way now

[AVI_8]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

Wow. I can't even begin to imagine that.
My garage has a swampy for the hot weather and gas for when it gets cold.
Beer sounds good but.
Lyndon
P

Heating is something I’ve been looking into lately, workshop is 30 X 26 ft and 15ft high so electric is out of the question for heat, over here it’s really expensive, I’m thinking along the lines of an indirect diesel or kerosine space heater, being indirect the moisture laden exhaust gases are extracted outside

Never heard of a Swampy I’m presuming it’s air con, I’ll just open my doors for that in the summer 👍

[Lyndon302]

Keeps the garage cool.

[AVI_8]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

Keeps the garage cool.

I’m sure it does!
Wish I had your problem it’s 4 degrees here now

[safe]

Originally Posted by AVI_8

.... but limit RPM for the first couple of hundred miles (4000 ish) then gradually increase RPM over the next few hundred miles through to max RPM.

Not directing this to you precisely, but what is really the logic behind limiting the rpms?

What is happening at 6000 that doesn't occur at 4000?

I see a reason for getting the engine up to temperature before getting the hammer down. I see a reason for doing pulls progressively up to higher and higher rpms to get a feel for the engine.
But I fail to see what damage that can occur going to redline in the first 10 miles, compared waiting 1000 miles.
I've given this some thought but haven't really found an answer, so on the few rebuilds I've done I have gone full tilt as soon as the engine is warm and has ok fueling.