P234 rear main seal tool available?
 

Getting ready for my JE piston set 73 2.4L rebuild 911T and in need of the p234 or equivalent rear main seal install tool. Is there one floating around this forum to buy? I only need one use (hopefully) so it isn’t really economical to buy a new unit.

Where are you?

Small plastic hammer. Cheap.

I’ve got that tool, the best part about it is that it’s fool proof. Tapping in is just as good as long as the seal stays square - if they are at all crooked it’s a leaker

We have the tool as well, I rarely use it, but our techs use it all the time... It is fool proof and creates consistent repeatable results, which is important in a shop environment.

Cheers

Home made P-234 tools.........
 

Go to your local hardware stores and look at the plumbing section for these pvc parts or find a scrap steel plate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665855660.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665855660.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665855660.jpg

Tony

The one advantage of the tool is that it sets correct depth.....

cheers

I thought correct depth was the seal outer flange being in firm contact with the case....is there a spec that is different?

Or is it just mitigating the risk of hammering too hard and squishing the seal in some way?

D.

The OG original Porsche tool for the 9 bolt crank installs the seal flush. The SIR tools p234 goes in past flush. Both work.

The original post mentions a 73 crank so he actually needs p215 which also just drives the deal flush.

A lathe pays for itself really fast when you need NLA or $$$$ tools.

Tony, whats the difference between the green version and the metal plate? Which one do you use for the 9 hole flywheel? The white is for tapping?

On installation, I would generally fit a seal (using a "screw" tool like the above) until the seal bottom end sits against something (like the case). If it happens to be "flush at the other end" because of the seal dimensions, then "so be it".

Is this foolish for a 9 hole flywheel crank seal (or any other), and it would be better for it be "flush" regardless of whether the bottom edge is up against the case?

Strictly,

The depth of the circular cavity is several mm more than the thickness of the rear main seal. So if you install the oil seal flush to the edge, there is still several mm clearance before the backside comes in contact with the crankcase. I have some measurement done years ago and if my memory serves me right, the space is about 3~4 mm clearance.

Basically, the green PVC and the steel plate work the same way as pressure plates. The three (3) bolts are tighten gradually to push the oil seal smoothly and flush to the case. I use the same bolts for the PVC and the steel plate. The bolts shown in the picture for the steel plate were my proto-type fasteners I just picked from the tool box. The regular hexagonal head bolts are what you need. Nothing fancy.

Tony

Super Big Gulp cup from 7-11 worked for me.

Here's the writeup
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1104955-flywheel-side-crank-seal-installation.html