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Circlip Injector, what did I do wrong?
Well I was going to make my own tool to wind in the circlip like Mahle motorsports suggest in their helpful video online.
https://youtu.be/3kdhGBCpuxM http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676048356.jpg I made a very rough prototype tool, but was going to make a second one with some changes. Instead I decided it would be quicker to buy the Stromski racing tool. I did have some concerns, and had read somewhere that using the injector l might over compress the circlip reducing their holding force. So I just cleaned up the tool, and a retaining ring, and following the instructions pushed in the ring with a notched screwdriver. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676048671.jpg I decided to push the ring out and measure to see if it collapsed. Yeah it did, it's no longer round, and it's now about .050" smaller. Permanent deformation of a piece of spring steel wire...... Did I do something wrong? Has anyone measured a wire lock after it took a ride in this tool? Does it only work on the factory lock rings and not the stiffer Mahle Motorsports locks. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676050567.jpg . 1.024 After http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676050648.jpg 1.079 Before http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676050999.jpg So instead of putting pistons and cylinders on this weekend I am going to be ordering parts and making a new tool to do this job So very very frustrating,. Please someone who has good success with this tool tell me how to use it correctly. I just had a nice chat with Mahle Motorsports tech support Jason Griffin. We discussed options about how to install these lock rings, they suggested using one of their tools, although they don't make one in this exact size. I mentioned I had watched the YouTube video and made a copy of their tool. Jason offered to send me the drawing of one close in size. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676053269.jpg David Performance EngiNerding |
Jonny042 had a few posts about this in his project heavy metal thread, consider checking there. I don't remember how it turned out but he was pretty detailed as usual.
Dan Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk |
Overthinking it...
Grab the clip near the end with a needle nose pliers, insert the other end, put your thumb over it and twist in the other end. Push it into the groove withe a screwdriver (if not seated). 10 seconds per clip after a few pistons. |
My job as an engineer is to overthink these things. But this is a carefully constructed method of thought. I am around a wide variety of complex systems every day at work that I have seconds of experience with. In a production support environment the engineer is rarely the expert at assembly.
Rule #1 tools should not create new risk to your end product, tools should lower your overall risk and make the job easier. Rule #2 if you don't know something always ask an expert how they do the job, watch them do the job carefully. Rule #3 copy or reverse engineer a tool that works if you can. Rule #4 make changes to simplify manufacturing, eliminate features that are non functional. Rule #5 if the engineer can use the tool and make a hard job easy, it's probably a good tool. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676667966.jpg This is a JE piston from a very hot MG race car, with a particularly evil lock ring. I just installed the ring while sitting at the kitchen table in about 6-10 seconds ... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676668232.jpg |
Thanks for opening my eyes. I was going to use the Stomski tool to assemble an engine shortly, but I'm rethinking that now. Strange that the Mahle tools (the aluminum ones) aren't available commercially. I see the plastic one is, but in the video even the Mahle guy seemed kinda down on it and didn't demonstrate it lol. I'll keep looking.
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I don't doubt that the Stromski tool works. Often a novice will spend an enormous amount of time to do the job perfect, because they don't have the experience to know when close enough is good enough.
Part of the problem being a novice engine builder is knowing what expert to take the advice of on each step of the way. I decided on this step to be more conservative and work towards an OEM type of tool. David Performance EngiNerding |
When I first used the Stomski tool, I observed exactly the same as you are now. I freaked out and bought new circlips! (this was years ago)
I since learned that if I only inserted the circlip just enough to stop it from springing out, then the unsprung shape was fine. I use that tool on all my circlip installs. Never had an issue... but yeah, the Mahle tool in the video looks great! (I want one!!) |
Pushed them in for eons with my thumb and a small screwdriver to finish, before the stomski tool.
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Factory clips are a dream and easy on the fingers. JE clips are, as they say, are a interesting challenge requiring a tool. How do the Mahle compare to the JE?
This is my copy of a simple bushing mod tool detailed on this forum years ago. Works great on JE clips at a cost of $3 and 20 minutes to fabricate. Of course you need a spare piston pin. Your tool looks nice, if you have the machinery and time to fabricate it. If I was going to do a dozen motors a year I would invest. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1676723162.jpg |
Some stomski tools are great some just a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist. But he knows some of you will buy them anyway. In all my years of wrenching on various motors I have never had a Circlip come out and many times I reused the old one, not on a 911 with $10,000 worth of new parts obviously but many motorcycles et.
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