Head stud removal from 2.0 aluminum case

[JT912]

So I’ve tried Mapp gas at 1 minute, 2 minute and 3 minute heating times through the spigot. They have been sprayed with a variety of products. I’ve tried a breaker bar and last night an impact wrench and still no go. How long is too long to heat up the case? These are original steel studs. A week into this first stud and I’m getting cranky. Any input is warmly welcomed.

[stownsen914]

Do you know how hot you're getting the case? the heat dissipates surprisingly quickly. And if someone red loctited those studs in .... (red loctite takes 500 degrees to break it down)

[mepstein]

Are you heating inside the area where the cylinder sits, along the length of the stud? Hit it for 2 minutes and use a snap on collet tool/stud remover and a long wrench or adjustable wrench to break it free. If you are just double nutting the stud, that won’t let you get real leverage on the stud. I’ve done it on dozens of aluminum and mag cases and it works every time.
The snap on collet set is really worth the money.

[john walker's workshop]

Oxy/acetylene and keep tension on the removal collet until you feel the stud move. That's how long you need to heat it.

[Zuffenwerker]

^what they said. Oxy/acetylene makes real quick work of it just be careful. What John said about heating till it turns is your safest bet but I prefer hitting the snap on collet with a big impact gun after heating. in my opinion it’s the best way to go I’ve had great luck on many studs that way .
BTW a kroil bath is a good idea if u have some

[safe]

Heating and keeping tension, when its warm enough it just lets go. For me MAPP worked fine, it took a few minutes, the case soaks up a lot of heat. The first studs takes longer time, then the case begins to get more heat into itself.

[JT912]

Originally Posted by mepstein

Are you heating inside the area where the cylinder sits, along the length of the stud? Hit it for 2 minutes and use a snap on collet tool/stud remover and a long wrench or adjustable wrench to break it free. If you are just double nutting the stud, that won’t let you get real leverage on the stud. I’ve done it on dozens of aluminum and mag cases and it works every time.
The snap on collet set is really worth the money.

The double nut wasn't working so I did get a collet-type remover. I'll try again tonight.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by JT912

The double nut wasn't working so I did get a collet-type remover. I'll try again tonight.

It’s a huge difference having the right tool.

[Richey]

I've had to use 2 MAPP torches and an assistant to heat the front and inside of the case simultaneously .
Also , an impact wrench is the only way , a wrench will bend or twist the stud .

[JT912]

Originally Posted by Richey

I've had to use 2 MAPP torches and an assistant to heat the front and inside of the case simultaneously .
Also , an impact wrench is the only way , a wrench will bend or twist the stud .

This is exactly my new strategy. If no luck, it will then find its way to a workshop in WA.

[john walker's workshop]

Just heat inside the cylinder bore adjacent to the threads. Never heat the stud or it will twist, and don't bother heating the outside of the case.

[Alan L]

It is a nerve wracking job first time round. Beads of sweat and shaky hands. Follow the instructions - keep the heat and torque going til you feel it start to soften in the turn. Then you are good to go. You can drop the heat and keep turning. As said don't heat the stud, you need to heat the case around the stud. Heating the stud defeats the purpose - makes it soft.
Once you get the first one, the rest will be simple.
I don't recall any pics of a melted case - but countless stories of studs that won't budge.
Hoping no one is going to post a pic of a melted case. But the stud should have freed WELL before that.
Those collet grips are great but I have done fine with vise clamps - squeezed up TIGHT.
Alan

[Dauner]

I made a video and posted on my YouTube page of what I did. I can’t say whether my process was a good one or not, or whether apples to apples between your much older engine than mine, but it worked for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4rHS-N5bOk

Cheers,

Mark

[JT912]

Well I tried two torches. Spot temp reading was at 500 degrees. Collet clamped down tight and I feel like I'm just twisting stud. I like the idea of trying to apply force closer to the case so I will try again with a pair of vice grips low in addition to the breaker bar. The impact wrench was also a no-go.

[john walker's workshop]

What kind of torches?

[JT912]

Bernzomatic with Mapp gas.

[john walker's workshop]

I suggested oxy/acetylene, so that's why you still haven't had any luck. Listen to the pros and go rent a small setup. Ask the rental place how to use it or go on youtube to learn how to fire up the torch and adjust the flame. You need a strong, aggressive flame. You will need to shut it off and reignite and adjust after every stud, unless you have someone to hold the torch. Only heat inside the cylinder spigot, adjacent to the stud threads, not the stud or outside the case. Some studs take longer than others until you feel it loosen.

[JT912]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

I suggested oxy/acetylene, so that's why you still haven't had any luck. Listen to the pros and go rent a small setup. Ask the rental place how to use it or go on youtube to learn how to fire up the torch and adjust the flame. You need a strong, aggressive flame. You will need to shut it off and reignite and adjust after every stud, unless you have someone to hold the torch. Only heat inside the cylinder spigot, adjacent to the stud threads, not the stud or outside the case. Some studs take longer than others until you feel it loosen.

I have an oxy/acetylene set up. I have previously replaced head studs on a mag case. I did not have any issues getting them to break free with just Mapp gas. I am appreciative of the advice from the pros. The holidays have me on hold.

[Alan L]

For those that may not have access to acetylene (which is what I have previously used also), BBQ gas (propane/butane) works just as well with Oxy. It uses a different tip, and is slightly cooler than acetylene - but will do 90+% of the jobs you would use acetylene for.
Alan

[JT912]

Back at it with the big dog. I’m not sure if the one I decided to start with is the most cantankerous of the bunch, but I managed to get 7 out of 12 removed using oxy/acetylene. Still can’t budge the first one. Letting them soak after this round of heat.