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OK, i have a question about head studs. I know the obvious, steel good, dilvar bad, racware hella good. Now whenever i buy parts, i get things like this from my old boss in Jersey. He told me that for replacement head studs, they've always used USA dilvar. According to him, european dilvar are the ones that get brittle and crack. But usa dilvar in 911 motors does not. Does anyone know what the hell he's talking about, i've always trusted him and never been steered wrong, but this sounds a bit odd. And BTW, their primary specialty are 911's.
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Here's what I know. Dilavar is what Porsche uses in their head studs, not Dilvar, Dilivar, Divilar or any one of several like-sounding names which may or may not (probably not) have the same structural composition and strength as Dilavar.
According to Forbes Aird's reference book, Racer's Encyclopedia of Metals, Fibers and Materials. Dilavar is a trademarked name owned by a German company, Thyssen Edelstahlwerke. While having about the same thermal coefficient as aluminum and magnesium and with similar expansion characeristics, it has an ultimate tensile strength (UTS) of 180 ksi (that's pretty strong). I believe in the stuff, maybe because I installed them in my 2.7 a few years ago and they haven't snapped yet. So far, so good. FWIW, most of the Dilavar studs that seem to have an abbreviated life span are the silver and gold colored versions used up until around '84. And these seem to die due to unprotected exposure which results in corrosion. The black epoxy versions used in my engine don't seem to fail as regularly.... I think (hope). Knock on wood. I would check their spelling and let us know. Sherwood Lee http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars |
I'm not positive, haven't talked to him in awhile, but i didn't know that there were different dilivar's. Or dilivar, dilavar, dilvar, or whatever. I do remember being told off the top of my head that raceware studs are like 190,000psi of tensile stregth which is sick. If your dilavar studs are as strong as you say, then i'd think that they are pretty bada$$ and wouldn't worry. I'll give them a try anyway, Mike (my old boss) has never steered me wrong. Besides, my dad's 951 has the same studs he's talking about and the little ***** puts out about 350 at the wheels with 18 lbs on a stock k26 cup turbo. Those Tech 2's are cool, let me tell you.
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I don't know much about Raceware studs but if their coefficient of expansion isn't similar to Aluminum I would hesitate to use them, no matter how strong they are. Anything will tear it self apart if the coefficient of expansion isn't close enouth for the operating temperature range and within the strength of the fastener and what the fastener attaches to. I would use steel studs with steel cylinders, Dilavar with Aluminum cylinders. If Raceware has studs that match the coeficient of expansion of Dilavar, or is within the same range I would use them with Aluminum cylinders, as they are likely stronger. If not I would only use them with steel cylinders or cylinders with a similar expansion rate.
My experiences with military stuff, operation temp range of -55C to +125C is that the mismatch of the coeficient of expansion needs to be about 40% or less. If its within this range it will last indefinitely. If it is not, e.g. say 3:1 like steel vs Aluminum, it will likely break within 30 or 40 temperature cycles. The closer the match the more cycles required to break it. For whatever its worth. |
Snowman,
Damn, I would have to agree with you in terms of matching the expansion rates of studs and cylinders, yet Raceware and ARP head studs, they being merely very strong studs with no special expansion characteristics, seem to work in this application. I haven't heard of any reported compression, head gasket, pulled stud failures on this or other pcar forums..... yet. How long have they been on the Porsche market, 3 years or so? Maybe time will tell. Sherwood |
Unfortunately it takes a lot of samples as well as cycles to spot trends that are not obnoxious. Time will tell.
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From my archives...
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Common consensus is that the early studs are very effective for any engine 1965-89. They have proven themselves over the past years when they replaced the Dilivar studs.
-Wayne |
Wait, now i'm a little confused, are the OE studs dilivar or dilavar or something else? Besides the steel ones that is.
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RaceWare is the good, golden upgrade, but not necessary for everyone. -Wayne |
Does any one have any experience with the supertec stud? They are stainless steel, heat treated , etc... I don't have the full specs. They claim superior performance and good torque propeties due to m10x1 threads at the head.
Thanks, Arnie |
OK, in case no one saw the update on the technical forum. In a nutshell, oil ring cracked, cylinder fin crackes, me is screwed!
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Assuming i attempt a rering, the rings i'd use, are they the same for ausil and nikasil? In other words, the ones on the pelican rebuild wizard page, would these work with my ausil's?
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Only thing I heard was not to use the famous Deves (sp??) rings. Something about to much tension and not enough use of gas pressure to seal with. Thats what an old guy who has been machining Porsche engines for almost as long as Porsche has been around told me. His name starts with a Bech?? but I can't remember it exactly
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What about the rings that wayne sells, are those safe?
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While he was in Burbank, Bieker performed most of the machine work on my engine. Very good machinist. I learned alot from him.
Sherwood |
Well, i guess rering it is, wish me luck (and between the motor, trans, and cis wiring, i'll need it)!
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Can someone send me a pm on how to post pics? I'd like to post some pics of the car and the progress of the motor/trans but don't know how to (or at least never tried).
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