Correct way to mate motor and transmission???
 

When I mated the motor and transmission I tried to leave the clutch release fork in the same angle as when they were removed. I have replaced the cable and helper spring assembly.

Finally got car started (timing issue) and warmed her up. I tried to shift into gear and noted the clutch pedal did not grab for about 1/3 of the travel. I checked the pedal and noted that it was resting about 5/8" from the stop. I tightened the cable all the way to the end of the thread, tightened the adjusting bolt against the clutch positioning lever and removed the pedal cluster board to increase my throw. Started car and could not shift into gear.

I tried to put the clutch positioning lever closer to the clutch release lever but could not get an easy fit.

I cannot position a mirror in order to be able and look down into the hole on top of the mating point.

Should I try and get the clutch positioning lever closer to the clutch release lever or should I unmate and remate the motor and transmission? Thanks again,

I like to play some Barry White music to get them in the mood and let nature take it's course.
If the release fork is engaged with the throwout bearing, rotation of the release fork shaft (sticks out bottom of transmission) back and forth should be limited to a few degrees of free play, maybe 2-5 degrees. It will make a clicking noise as it hits the limit of its travel.
Did you remove the release fork shaft from the transmission? I think I reindexed things wrong once doing that but I can't remember.
I'm curious do you leave the transmission in the car when you removed the motor?
-Chris

You need to check this as the engine and tranny are going together. Typically when the engine is out of the car, or the engine is not raised all the way up into the car. At this point, you can use a mirror and see down the small little hole. The fork must fit within the small channel in the TO bearing...

-Wayne

Chris,

That must be where I went wrong. I was playing Sinatra and Bennett!! Barry White!! I'll pull some of his stuff out to the garage with me. I do not feel any free play in the shaft. I must have knocked the fork from it's location when I mated them.

Wayne, Chris,

I followed the progress of the fork during the mating via the hole in top. It appeared to be going in well. Felt some resistance to mating, lowered the motor in relation to the transmission, pushed a little, and it slid right in without a fuss.

The only thing I can think of is that the fork is not in the throw out bearing channel. In other words, I will need to drop and re-connect. Insert your favourite string here.

So Barry White, a little bit of wine, some grease, and more patience. $#*%!!!

Re: Correct way to mate motor and transmission???
 

Groesbeck,
It sounds like the fork is engaged to the throwout bearing. It if weren't, you would had a very difficult time mounting the trannie to the engine. Indexing the arm might be the problem, but the spline is rather coarse, giving you 20-30 degrees of latitude. Is the clutch disk/pressure plate new? If not,did you measure the thickness of the disk?

There should be a slight amount of backlash when it is properly mated. From experience, improper mating means you can't wiggle it at all. Do you have any backlash?

-Wayne

Dave,

I did not measure, but the clutch disk/pressure plate, throw out bearing, and fork were all replaced by PO about 30K miles ago. The white lettering is still visible. Before taking the motor out this time, the shifting was smooth and gentle.

Wayne,

No backlash at all. I have disconnected the battery, then the electricals, then the fuel lines. Tonight and tomorrow I am doing the oil and will lower the motor and start over. Too much fun for one day? Eventually, I will get this right.

Thanks to all,

No backlash = bad. It means that the fork is probably mashed either in front or behind the groove that it's supposed to fit in. When you finally get it together, you will see what I mean about fitting into the groove, and having a little bit of backlash...

-Wayne

I admit, I stuggled with this the first time I put the tranny/motor back together. You will need to check your TO fork and make sure its not bent. It may be a good idea to replace it if you have forced it against the bell housing while trying to disengage the clutch.
My $0.02.

Troy

Wayne, regarding the backlash. I have my engine and tranny mated, the fork is happily in its grovve, the small lever has some freeplay, but it is not loose or freemoving freeplay, it is kinda stiff. Is this normal? Thanks

freeplay = backlash - yes this is normal...

-Wayne

Just to clarify, I know the backlash is normal. I need to know if it is normal for that play to be kinda stiff. It feels smooth, just stiff.

Throwout mis-aligned
 

Hello Guys,
I am doing a rebuild and somehow got the tranny/engine in the car with the trowout bearing mis-aligned('85 930). Can I slide the tranny back enough to do this with a screwdriver, without removing the engine/trans from the car?

Les

sorry, no. the 930 takes some extra care when mating the fork to the bearing. unlike the regular 911 bearing which has a groove all around it, the 930 bearing only has 2 ears, which tend to rotate out of position as the fork is engaged behind them. the hole in the bellhousing gives you enough room to watch with a mirror and flashlight, as you move the engine toward the trans carefully. you can turn the fork by the lower end of it's shaft.

Throwout fork issues
 

Ok... I'm stuck on this one.

I had my engine and transmission in once, but pulled it do to a lack of motion in the transmission throwout fork.

I reviewed my throwout bearing insertion (from the transmission peek hole) and the fork appears to be properly seated in the TO bearing groove. I went ahead and separated the transmission from the case to ensure everything else looked proper. It did.

So... I put the two back together and, again, very little motion in the throwout fork. I have read something about using a screwdriver to move something or rather around through the peek hole, but the descriptions I have read lack a good description.

Are we supposed to used a screw driver to thrust the throwout bearing and fork forward (towards the transmission)?

This is confusing... to say the least. The throwout bearing doesn't seem to want to move more than a very tiny bit on my install... Maybe 5mm at the most. :confused:

I need some direction on this.... thank you in advance for your help.

Eric J.

At least on a 1970-1971, you need to turn the little ears of the throwout bearing 90* to lock it to the pressure plate.

With the tranny and motor mated you should have minimal movement of the release lever
(by hand). Your 5mm is probably good. No screwdriver needed. As the trans. slides onto the studs turn the release lever shaft ( from underneath) so that the arms fits in the grove on the T/O bearing as you push the trans. on. You won't be able to move the lever by hand enough to release the pressure plate. Once the cable is attached and adjusted all should be good.

Did you mean to turn the ears on the throwout bearing 90* to lock to the clutch fork? That's how I do it on my 914 track car, which uses the 70-71 style clutch.

Eric - You can turn the throwout bearing with a screwdriver through the opening in the bell housing.

Scott

Reply...
 

Thanks everyone for chiming in.

I think I need to follow Pete's direction on this since we have similar transmissions (915).

So... Pete are you saying the throwout fork doesn't move more than 5mm by hand (almost seems more like slack than any real movement), but should move a greater distance when the cable is installed and you step on the clutch?

I actually did not think my fork lever was moving at all when I stepped on the clutch after my initial install. It seemed like it just stayed straight. Perhaps that's what it does, but I would think it has to move at least an inch to engage and disengage.

Thanks again for your responses.:)

Yeah, that's what I meant. ;):D