Removing Head Studs 911SC
 

Wow, what an experience. I tried different approaches and each was a little different experience. Heating the stud itself seemed to be best. Heating with MAPP Gas was a careful direction. Hotter than that would make me worry about hurting the case. Directing the MAPP Gas flame to the junction of the stud as kt screws into the case seemed to work best. Sixty seconds of heat seems to be ok. The differences between each is quite different. Some are easy, some chirp as they are extracted. One I removed snapped and had to resort to a pipe wrench. It seemed the best method was to heat the stud and case junction to the case for 1-2 minutes. I tried heating further up the stud fron the case (1-1/4”) and it didn’t quite work. Heating sometimes warped the stud. i’m glad I got all of them out without damage to the case.

It's a bit nerve wracking the first time huh?
Did you just use two nuts jammed against each other?

With broken ones, I usually use a grinder to make a flat on opposing sides, then use a long handled adjustable wrench.. my pipe wrench doesnt like smaller diameter studs

So much good info on this if you search. Not recommended to heat the stud, just in the case spigot adjacent to the stud.

Heat is the key to removing steel studs from aluminum.
With the SC you are dealing with the nightmare of Dilivar.
It's an absolutely atrocious material that refuses to perform in any predictable fashion. Many break off very close to the case. Our favorite technique for removing these stubborn remnants is to weld a nut on the stud.
The important thing to remember is that removing short pieces is "do no harm" If you have a mill and carbide drills you might be successful. The only guaranteed method is EDM. The sooner you grasp that fact, the better your chances of not damaging you case become. .

Hi John, I have the most upmost respect for you and recommendations, but heating the case seemed unfruitful. At least in my experience on this case. Toward the end of the whole process, I was heating at the junction. My tell-tail sign was the stud starting to smoke (oil). I did notice that early in my process, heating the bolt 1-1/4" up from the case, it seemed the stud was turning a very dull red. The best part is the studs are removed and the case is unharmed.

If there's a next time, use oxy/acet heat in the spigot and keep tension on the stud and see how quickly they loosen. Your issue was the long time it takes using mapp gas, and red hot studs twist and break.

Jeezzz, I had that oxy/acet rig in the closet. Well maybe next time. Yah-right��