Motor does not want to slide into transmission
 

In case you have not read, I had missed the placement of the clutch fork into the clutch release bearing. I thought it was in, but missed it completely.

I disconnected everything around the motor Tuesday and pulled the motor from the transmission tonight. I left the transmission inside the car. I verified the clutch fork was not mated. I then placed the fork and started to mate the motor and transmission again. I verified the clutch fork was engaging three times as I pushed the motor onto the transmission.

The problem is that the motor would get within ~one inch of mating with the transmission and stop. I have continually verified the clutch fork. Over the last 3 hours or so I have been lowering, raising, pushing, pulling, etc the motor to no avail. The two will not get any closer than one inch.

I have verified the angle of attack. I have tried with the motor almost on the ground to the motor as far up as possible. And about every 1/2 inch between I have tried to get the two to mate. I have thought about large calibres and small amounts of explosives but I do want to drive the car in the end. Any ideas what I have missed or what I should try?

I played the same game a week ago. Drop the trans and install it while the engine is out. It will take an extra hour to get it out and then mate it up. You will save time and hair in the long run. For whatever reason you have to be just perfect to install it with the trans in the car.

Sometimes the splines need to be lined up. Rotate the motor a little or grab both the of the transmission output flanges and turn them the same direction.

When you removed the motor the 1st time, did you remove the motor and transmission together? This is the only thing I really disagree with Wayne on. I think lowering them separately is just asking for trouble.
-Chris

Chris is right on here.
I was running into the same problem as GH, then I did as Chris suggests. Slipped right on then.
And yes...the pros can leave the trans in the car, but it's easier for the rest of us to have it out.

I found it easier with the starter off of the transmission!

Thanks yall. I indexed the transmission and then, after some more struggling, mated the two last night. I'm bolting together tomorrow and reconnecting everything. I did all the oil lines last night. Man, that was a bear! OK, both out everytime.

Does Wayne's floor jack attachment really help that much more when doing this? My notched soft pine 2x4 is not the best.

Oh, and Doug, you ARE a pro in my book!! Thanks and I'll let everyone know if I'm driving on Sunday. Hmmm, I wonder if the car was looking for a way to give me a father's day present...

I think the pelican jack attachment is a huge help, especially when you are doing an R/R by yourself. I only wish it had two fulcrums that you could move the base between, one for lifting the engine and transmission, and one for lifting just the engine. I'm tempted to make the mod myself to try it out, but that would ruin the nice yellow powder coat.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...k_Adapter1.JPG

Getting the two together can be a pain, but I still recommend dropping the engine without the transmission, as I have stripped way too many CV joint bolts in my time.

The trick I used (it's almost embarrassing), is to have a helper push forwards on the engine while you jiggle it left and right with your feet (don't get your head close to the engine). This usually works. The splines is the right idea too - you have to turn the motor slightly if it doesn't mate initially...

-Wayne

I'm with Wayne, I've removed the motor without the trans twice now, find it a piece of cake and easier to deal with! It helps to have all the stuff from the top of the motor off so you can peer down the notch in the trans to verify the shift fork is mated. Last time I put the motor back in, only took me 20 minutes by myself... Just a matter of getting the alignment just so...

I 've done quite a few for over 40 years. Mostly 356/912 but a couple 911's. I have (almost) always removed both the tranny and engine, and installed them as a unit. To me it seems to work the best, at least if you do not have any extra help at hand. Even then the mating of the tarnny to engine is a PAIN in the back and other places.