Valve Adjuster Improvement
 

So how come someone hasn’t developed this style drive on valve adjusters?

This on that.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697401381.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697401381.jpg

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it." ;)

What would be the improvement? There's literally no torque needed for the adjuster?

Literally NO Torque? I guess you just kinda finger tighten them? While tightening, there is an amount of force to hold the screw during tightening. Slot screws/screwdrivers are generally a old pain in the ars. If the was a scocket allen or torx, it comes be held in place better. Better to have two levers I think.

Sometimes people over tighten / mishandle the adjusters, which can spread the slotted end of the adjuster, and make it a pain to pass through the threaded portion of the rocker arm while disassembling. An avoidable problem obviously.

There were some made (or someone made them) with torx I believe… have to see if I can find one I have in my pile of parts.

My question would be why would you consider a hex key an improvement over a slot? As mentioned, when you loosen the retaining nut it takes no torque to rotate the adjuster. Standard long shaft screwdriver works fine, slot actually allows you to better see clocking as adjusting. For example, try a 1/4 turn and if way loose 1/16th if less. I like to use a dial indicator to measure clearance so I can usually make a logical guess (or could actually calculate) how much rotation is needed to end up with correct clearance.

john

In my opinion, having a alan wrench that would stay seated in the adjuster leaves two hands to use the 14mm wrench and feeler gage or wrench and dial indicator. A long handled alan wrench works as a flag to help keep the visual on the screw position. I started using a dial indicator about 1986 and made my own indicator holder when the were $100 in 1986.

Found the rocker I mentioned a while ago. Looks to be welded up 993. Anyone recognize? Very fine thread.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1702920463.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1702920463.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1702920715.jpg

...I'm guessing most are looking at adjuster on the right and thinking that thing has seen better days. It's actually brand new and has only been used has been check piston to valve clearance on intake and exh valves on 1 and 4.

Looks like 993 RSR rocker. I have one without the adjuster.

john

I can see the hex as an improvement. While adjusting valves in the car the stubby flat blade can be difficult especially on a turbo. An L shaped Allen wrench might be better in tight clearance areas

Agree with a slot screwdriver, Also when you get old the fingers don’t work as well.

...was there two versions of the 993 RSR's? I thought they only had the solids with 'caps' for lash adjustment.

It may have been the GT2 that had this type of rocker. I got info from a thread on Rennlist. Not totally clear but apparently there were both types were possibly used on the RSR and GT2.

https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cup-cars/745599-993-rsr-rocker-arms.html

I got the one I have from Chris Cervelli with a bunch of other parts.

john

The one that I have does not have the standard 8mm x1.0 threads of standard adjusters. They do look very much like the one pictured earlier in the thread.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1703016500.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1703016536.jpg

Performance engineering does modify 993 rockers. to use adjusters.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/10620769-post13.html

From Neil later in the post.
Yes, these are 993 rocker arms. We use these for adjustable types as they are stronger and lighter than 911 types. 911 rocker arms are cast and 993 arms are forged.

The arms are purchased new, undergo a ratio check, pad check, crack checking, machining for the threaded bushing, additional modification if used for 911 cam housings, and finally after ultrasonic cleaning, sent out for DLC coating. Upon return, the shaft bores are honed for the clearance we specify and finally get assembled with the bushing. We use new rockers only if they are to be DLC coated as there is minimal contamination prior to DLC coating. Used rocker arms have too much embedded trash which makes the adhesion of the DCL too difficult to be certain of.

john

If you need two hands on the wrench to tighten the lock nut, you are doing it wrong...

Wrong? Joemags 1st photo (Chingered up slot) says otherwise. If a plain slotted screw is so good, why where the Torx Drive developed? Slots were used originally because of cost. Please explain that?

I like your suggested design. It would only be worthwhile when doing a complete rebuild. Otherwise lot of labor for fix of non problem.

You need one hand to keep the adjuster from over tighten and one hand too tighten the lock nut. Slot, allen, torx on the end of the adjuster is not an issue.
Why a torx slot adjuster was developed? Someone thought there was a market I guess, Plenty of people with Porsches and too much cash to spend...

Joes picture is from someone two-handing the lock nut (doing it wrong), stupid people (not blaming Joe) do stupid things, no fancy parts will fix that!