I know people are always wanting updates and pics so here is a little entertainment for you all.

Well, short of finishing my head work and getting it all bolted back together the end is near.

Since I had a chance to go into work and spend some time on the final parts clean up I decided to completely debur and clean my cases. Now I just need to run them through the cleaning tank one more time to get all my grubby fingerprints and debris off of them and they are ready to bolt back together.

I thought I would share the pics of what an aluminum engine case should look like after a lot of TLC.

http://AnthonyRawson.com/Cars/CleanU...ase04small.jpg

http://AnthonyRawson.com/Cars/CleanU...ase03small.jpg

I think some bare aluminum will look nice in contrast with my brushed stainless exhaust and bare magnesium fan. 8)

The fan is building up a very nice and even gray patina which is what I want.

I can't wait till I turn all the stainless a dark goldish orange.

http://AnthonyRawson.com/Cars/CleanUp/FanAndExhaust.jpg

What kind of muffler is that? It looks a little like a Fabspeed?

What did you use to debur the block? Are you going to clear coat the block?
Rick
'78 930

Clear coat? Never. Aluminum builds up a natural platina that is good enough for me.

Its whats on the inside that I am truely concerned about anyways.

The car is bound to be on a lift or torn apart every now and then to where I can keep all the exposed bits aesthetically pleasing.

As far as the muffler goes, its some no-name tig welder's special. Its put together pretty well but I will be cutting it open to make some internal mods to its pseudo baffle and add some reinforcement for the 3" exit pipe.

I just noticed that this is the second most viewed thread on the engine rebuilding forum next to wayne's engine book sticky.

That is interesting, because it is only 7th if ranked by the number of replies? Something about a turbo engine, and the great pictures.

So what did you use to debur the block and approximately how much time would it take to get a block as clean? I have been told in the past that the factory laquered the exposed aluminum surfaces since many of the cast parts are porous.
Rick
'78 930

Wow, its been a while since I have updated this post so I guess its time to post some more pics.

Sorry for taking so long to answer your question Rick but I didn't even see your post till now. I deburred the block using a well worn rasp in an air dremmel tool and I think my total cleanup time is between 5 and 10 hours worth (that includes thouroughly flushing and testing the squirters).

The factory didn't lacquer the cases since porosity is not an issue but it did put a bunch of cosmolene on the engine after assembly to protect against corrosion. Its a ***** to get off after almost two decades and the main reason why I took a wire brush to the outside of the case.

Here are the rods after they were cut and prepped for their new fasteners.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097943799.jpg

And to give you an idea how they compare against other types of rods, here is a pic of mine beside a ford small block rod, a chevy small block rod and a rod from an 87 grand national 3.8L turbo motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097943911.jpg

Great Thread!
By the way earlier you stated that you were paying $168 for the set of 993 cylinder head studs. Where are you getting them for that price? I have be quoted about $24 ea. or about $500 for a set of 24.
Jeff

The wastegate is also now as good as new. I discovered when I took it apart that the diaphram was cracking which certainly explained the boost spiking issues. Since my new electronic boost controller gives the the choice of 3 boost levels including a scramble mode I decided to cut down my 1 bar wastegate spring so its uncontrolled limit would be between 5 and 7 lbs of boost. I am happy to say my calculations were correct since it now opens at 6 psi. I will now have the option of using mid grade fuels on long trips.

Parts & Pieces

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097944354.jpg

And here are a couple pics of it put back together.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097944429.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097944462.jpg

Yeah, correction on the head studs. My former co-worker at the p-dealer looked up the price for the plain old steel studs. Lets just say I suffered from a little sticker shock when I got the correct quote of 21.70 each.

:(

More pics to follow but I just realize I need to leave the house for a little while.

Short of some porting work and final guide and machining work the pistons and heads are also nearly complete.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097955759.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097955774.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097955806.jpg

I just wanted to make an update to state that PP has the 993 divilar studs even cheaper than I can get them from the dealer with my discount.

Wayne has them for only $18.95 which is a few dollars cheaper than the dealer so you know where my order will be placed.

It looks like almost everything for my rebuild will be coming from PP.

Here is why I will not use 993 studs again on my rebuild. I spent the money for ARP stuff.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098323785.jpg

Don E... Just so I know what I am looking at in that great photo,

Is that looking down on your cylinders from above, and is that oil leak between the head and the cylinder? How many studs are broken here?

Steve

Yes, you are looking down on a 930 cylinder, using 993 studs. None of the studs were broken, but they could not handle the 1.0 bar of boost - the head floated slightly off the cylinder under power.

I got a few recent pics to upload of my cylinder honing and rod resizing but for now I just wanted to share my latest impulse buy here on this thread.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7936085788

I am also on the hunt for a large intercooler since I have decided to go all the way with EFI so I can safely go for high HP numbers.

Do you all think I got a good deal. Its the cheapest I have found a decent looking set for.

Juan might have to cope with another hp junkie 911/930 running around the peninsula.

As far as EFI I am currently thinking about modifying the 930 manifold and running a megasquirt ECU.

Very good buy. Those headers seem to be well-mad and are no nonsence "keep it short"- style with twin-scroll flange.
Only minor thing I can se is that most state-of-the art series-R Garrett turbochargers have actually one common intake and not twin-scroll flange as on your headers. It's not a big problem as you can always make and adapter, replace the flange or just bolt it as it is in case flange doesn't fit your turbocharger.

Megasquirt will work as well as any other EFI if you can hack it.

What about the intake? Planning to do any changes there?

Looking forward reading new rapports.

What a score!
Can't wait to see how this all comes out. When do you anticipate having 'er on the road? My brother lives in Tampa, I'd sure like to check it out when you're done.

I'll be interested to see what you think when you receive those headers. I almost bought them myself but thought the head flanges looked much thinner than all the other headers I've seen. Great price though. What size is the wastegate tube? This has become an issue if running the 7200 Hi-flo.

Don E
Are you sure those are correct Porsche 993 studs??? I bought 993 studs when I did my rebuild and they either had a coating in the middle of the stud or only the ends had threads, can't remember which I'm too near 40 y.o.

But I am sure they did not have threads all the way on the stud.

Jeff

Yes - check out Wayne's rebuild book for more info. Rgds

Ah, right you are. I guess mine were the 993, I remember the coating more than the threads going all the way. Do you know what caused the rust? How long ago was the rebuild?
Jeff

Here is something I picked up this weekend for the 930. :D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1102912402.jpg

And a little side by side comparison for those who are unaware of why many people make this switch.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1102912556.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1102912575.jpg

wow, that is dramatic

Does the opening for the throttlebody look smaller on the carrera intake than the TB itself on the 930 intake?

How do they compare weight wise?

Weight wise the carrera intake is much lighter than the 930 intake!!!

Brian

Really? The 930 is magnesium and the Carrera is cast aluminum. My carrera manifold is heavier than the 930 monifold, ....but it really doesn't matter to me.

The carrera manifold appears to weigh just a little more than the 930 manifold.

I wish I had a bathroom scale to give you an exact number with.

Even though my new manfold didn't come with a throttle body I didn't mind since both manifolds use the same sized bolt pattern and opening.

The way I am looking at it is this. If you are going with the carrera intake, you are replacing the old CIS fuel head. So if you weigh the carrera components for intake/fuel vs the 930 components for intake/fuel, there is a pretty decent weight difference.

Brian

So true.

It looks like I will be using megasquirt II for fuel and spark control which will eliminate a lot of other stuff so I will be shedding a lot of weight in the rear.

For this reason I will have a lot of goodies for sale, including an Andial fuel enrichment system, J&S Knock Controller (very effective BTW), Permatune box, and a modified air lid that allows one to use a cone filter instead of the full airbox.

Oh yeah, I also have most of my old exhaust and intake stuff for sale for anyone who is looking for 930 plumbing.

hint: you could swap your 3.3 choked heads for 3.2 Carrera heads. I bet it would cost you nothing and you would have perfectly port-matched intake/head instead of having to fiddle with dremel.

Just sell those turbo heads to somebody who believes that they are made of magic stuff and pick some Carrera heads off E-bay ;)

The intake choke is easy to remove with a mill. The dremmel is just for fine tuning. :D

My plan is to reuse all of the motor with the exception of cams, induction, exhaust and ignition.

Porting and a compression bump will be my only internal engine mods.

I got more time than money right now so hacking up my 930 heads and making them a personal work of art works better for me than swapping them for carrera heads.

Whooa, hold it there. It's not so trivial.

Just making oval hole bigger is easy, but port-matching the injector notch isn't.

Take a look:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100540126.jpg

930 head in pic #1 has material to be removed outlined by green color. Removing the material to make hole isn't hard, but 930 head has less material between lower stud and "injector notch" (take a look at small inserted pic of Carrera head).

This means that you will need to do some fill-in with epoxy (like on pic #2, to the right of red area) to make good flange seal (in case you do a full poprt-job on the notch) or keep the notch little smaller, which will disturb injector spray-pattern once Carrera intake is bolted-on.

There is an easier solution beep. Instead of adding epoxy to entend the injector notch area its better to mill down the flange a couple millimeters instead.

That gives you aluminum to work with instead of bonded plastic epoxy and a better aiming position for the injector.

Hmm...yeah, you can do it that way as well.

Only potential problem is that injectors will be placed lower down the throat, which might and might not be a good thing. It all depends on spray-pattern of EFI compared to K-Jet injectors. Keep us posted!

Well, after many hours of working on my heads during my lunch breaks and some finish work this weekend in my garage I am nearly finished porting and polishing the exhaust ports on my head.

Its hard to get a good photo of the improvement in shape, size and finish, but if you look at the untouched intake ports it gives you a good idea of what I started with.

Once I finish boring out the intake port inlets they will be getting the same treatment.

http://anthonyrawson.com/Cars/Rebuil...ngExhaust0.JPG

http://anthonyrawson.com/Cars/Rebuil...ngExhaust1.JPG

http://anthonyrawson.com/Cars/Rebuil...ngExhaust2.JPG

http://anthonyrawson.com/Cars/Rebuil...ngExhaust3.JPG

Nice job. Are you going to polish the exhaust ports? This seems to help in evacuating gases and the polish reflects the heat to keep the gases as hot as possible to the turbo. You probably already know not to polish the intake. Did you also flow each port?

The 3.3 heads can't be all that bad, when in stock form they can produce over 400 rwhp with a CIS attached.

I am going to polish them once they are back at the shop and I have access to some more powerful dremmels and buffing wheels.

The smooth surfaces are for the purpose of reduced flow resistance and also to reduce surface area which will reduct heat conduction into the head. Once the engine has run for a few minutes there will be enough carbon black in the ports to eliminate all reflective capabilities.

I will have to wait till I replace my guides to flow test them, but I am confident that they should all flow evenly.