I know people are always wanting updates and pics so here is a little entertainment for you all.

Well, short of finishing my head work and getting it all bolted back together the end is near.

Since I had a chance to go into work and spend some time on the final parts clean up I decided to completely debur and clean my cases. Now I just need to run them through the cleaning tank one more time to get all my grubby fingerprints and debris off of them and they are ready to bolt back together.

I thought I would share the pics of what an aluminum engine case should look like after a lot of TLC.

http://AnthonyRawson.com/Cars/CleanU...ase04small.jpg

http://AnthonyRawson.com/Cars/CleanU...ase03small.jpg

I think some bare aluminum will look nice in contrast with my brushed stainless exhaust and bare magnesium fan. 8)

The fan is building up a very nice and even gray patina which is what I want.

I can't wait till I turn all the stainless a dark goldish orange.

http://AnthonyRawson.com/Cars/CleanUp/FanAndExhaust.jpg

What kind of muffler is that? It looks a little like a Fabspeed?

What did you use to debur the block? Are you going to clear coat the block?
Rick
'78 930

Clear coat? Never. Aluminum builds up a natural platina that is good enough for me.

Its whats on the inside that I am truely concerned about anyways.

The car is bound to be on a lift or torn apart every now and then to where I can keep all the exposed bits aesthetically pleasing.

As far as the muffler goes, its some no-name tig welder's special. Its put together pretty well but I will be cutting it open to make some internal mods to its pseudo baffle and add some reinforcement for the 3" exit pipe.

I just noticed that this is the second most viewed thread on the engine rebuilding forum next to wayne's engine book sticky.

That is interesting, because it is only 7th if ranked by the number of replies? Something about a turbo engine, and the great pictures.

So what did you use to debur the block and approximately how much time would it take to get a block as clean? I have been told in the past that the factory laquered the exposed aluminum surfaces since many of the cast parts are porous.
Rick
'78 930

Wow, its been a while since I have updated this post so I guess its time to post some more pics.

Sorry for taking so long to answer your question Rick but I didn't even see your post till now. I deburred the block using a well worn rasp in an air dremmel tool and I think my total cleanup time is between 5 and 10 hours worth (that includes thouroughly flushing and testing the squirters).

The factory didn't lacquer the cases since porosity is not an issue but it did put a bunch of cosmolene on the engine after assembly to protect against corrosion. Its a ***** to get off after almost two decades and the main reason why I took a wire brush to the outside of the case.

Here are the rods after they were cut and prepped for their new fasteners.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097943799.jpg

And to give you an idea how they compare against other types of rods, here is a pic of mine beside a ford small block rod, a chevy small block rod and a rod from an 87 grand national 3.8L turbo motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097943911.jpg

Great Thread!
By the way earlier you stated that you were paying $168 for the set of 993 cylinder head studs. Where are you getting them for that price? I have be quoted about $24 ea. or about $500 for a set of 24.
Jeff

The wastegate is also now as good as new. I discovered when I took it apart that the diaphram was cracking which certainly explained the boost spiking issues. Since my new electronic boost controller gives the the choice of 3 boost levels including a scramble mode I decided to cut down my 1 bar wastegate spring so its uncontrolled limit would be between 5 and 7 lbs of boost. I am happy to say my calculations were correct since it now opens at 6 psi. I will now have the option of using mid grade fuels on long trips.

Parts & Pieces

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097944354.jpg

And here are a couple pics of it put back together.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097944429.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097944462.jpg

Yeah, correction on the head studs. My former co-worker at the p-dealer looked up the price for the plain old steel studs. Lets just say I suffered from a little sticker shock when I got the correct quote of 21.70 each.

:(

More pics to follow but I just realize I need to leave the house for a little while.

Short of some porting work and final guide and machining work the pistons and heads are also nearly complete.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097955759.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097955774.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1097955806.jpg

I just wanted to make an update to state that PP has the 993 divilar studs even cheaper than I can get them from the dealer with my discount.

Wayne has them for only $18.95 which is a few dollars cheaper than the dealer so you know where my order will be placed.

It looks like almost everything for my rebuild will be coming from PP.

Here is why I will not use 993 studs again on my rebuild. I spent the money for ARP stuff.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098323785.jpg

Don E... Just so I know what I am looking at in that great photo,

Is that looking down on your cylinders from above, and is that oil leak between the head and the cylinder? How many studs are broken here?

Steve

Yes, you are looking down on a 930 cylinder, using 993 studs. None of the studs were broken, but they could not handle the 1.0 bar of boost - the head floated slightly off the cylinder under power.

I got a few recent pics to upload of my cylinder honing and rod resizing but for now I just wanted to share my latest impulse buy here on this thread.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7936085788

I am also on the hunt for a large intercooler since I have decided to go all the way with EFI so I can safely go for high HP numbers.

Do you all think I got a good deal. Its the cheapest I have found a decent looking set for.

Juan might have to cope with another hp junkie 911/930 running around the peninsula.

As far as EFI I am currently thinking about modifying the 930 manifold and running a megasquirt ECU.

Very good buy. Those headers seem to be well-mad and are no nonsence "keep it short"- style with twin-scroll flange.
Only minor thing I can se is that most state-of-the art series-R Garrett turbochargers have actually one common intake and not twin-scroll flange as on your headers. It's not a big problem as you can always make and adapter, replace the flange or just bolt it as it is in case flange doesn't fit your turbocharger.

Megasquirt will work as well as any other EFI if you can hack it.

What about the intake? Planning to do any changes there?

Looking forward reading new rapports.

What a score!
Can't wait to see how this all comes out. When do you anticipate having 'er on the road? My brother lives in Tampa, I'd sure like to check it out when you're done.

I'll be interested to see what you think when you receive those headers. I almost bought them myself but thought the head flanges looked much thinner than all the other headers I've seen. Great price though. What size is the wastegate tube? This has become an issue if running the 7200 Hi-flo.