I see that you removed the rubber lip that goes around the perimeter of the engine compartment to seal the top of the engine from the bottom. It's a flap-like gasket that sits in a groove. I take it you're going to replace it? I may do that to mine as well. How did you remove it, and how difficult was that to do? Do you know how difficult it will be to install a new one? Where can it be obtained (other than from a dealer) and at what price?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Are you on the beta test list for Mega Squirt II? Those PC boards aren't readily available for sale yet. Will you go crankfire w/ EDIS? This conversion makes twin plugging pretty easy, from what I can gather. If you do go the MegaSquirt route, PLEASE, let us all know, as there are quite a few of us that want to go this route as well.

Yes, EDIS and I will be one of the MSII pioneers even though its likely to be a few months before I am to that point though.

As usual, all will be well documented. :D

As far as the engine compartment gasket goes, you can pull the rubber right out of its groove. Even the stuff that turned rock hard came out pretty easily.

Can't wait to hear how it goes!

The moment the MSII kits go up for sale, I'm buying.

I finally had a chance to work on my stuff this weekend.

I spent about 6 hours port matching my heads and porting my carrera manifold.

Concidering the casting seams and roughness I can see why the carrera manifolds benefit so much from extrude honing but it wasn't anything that couldn't also be taken care of the old fashioned way.

I remembered to take a few pics so enjoy . . .

Here is a shot of my workbench as I prepared to scribe my heads for the detail work.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110170124.jpg

The phenolic spacers for the manifold can move around about 0.02" so I decided to make some shims to keep them properly located.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110170244.jpg

I used the mill to add some precise notches for the injectors.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110170388.jpg

Here is a before and after shot of the blending and port matching hand work.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110170533.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110170619.jpg

And here are a couple shots of my manifold that is now free of its casting seams and roughness in all critical areas.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110170736.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110170754.jpg

I can't add much to the rebuild of the motor, but I did replace the rubber seal Rob 930 asked about.

Just like 350HP said, it pulls right out of the channel. Easy job. Reinstall is pretty tough if you don't want to mess with the metal channel the seal rides in.

There's two ways of reinstalling that I considered:

1. Spread the channel open and pinch the new seal in place by crimping the channel closed, little by little as you go around the engine bay. I thought the end result might be a ragged-looking job. So I decided to go with #2.

2. Leave the channel be and simply spray the seal with silicone spray to make sliding the seal into the channel a little easier. Even with the silicone, it was a bit of a struggle. Lots of shoving and inching the seal along. Takes a bit of time and patience. Especially when the seal has to turn the corner(s). :mad:

Good luck.

And BTW, nice job keeping this topic alive 350HP! Slowly but surely it's coming together! SmileWavy

Please don't forget to post measured flows.

I will have some measured flows soon, but I imagine some of you would be interested in seeing my DIY method of doing so . . .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/213275-diy-flow-bench-post1830890.html

I posted on this thread earlier. What size were your intake ports before you did the machining and flow work? Mine are at 35mm+ from Andial way back when, and what started as a clutch and oil line/gasket freshening is now a full rebuild/upgrade. My 3.2 Motronic EFI showed up today, so doing somewhat similar things. My damn heads got done quickly and were re-assembled with all new valve train with a CIS assumption 4 weeks ago, so I didn't open them up anymore. Advice? I am not looking to win dyno wars. Looking for driveability with what should be an easy 100HP boost over where I was, with boost coming on earlier.

The stock 930 ports were officially 34 mm, but in reality they were more like 33 mm.

The carrera manifold and spacers are 40+mm so even with 36 mm ports you will want to do some port matching since port flows do not like meeting sharp edges like several millimeters of port mismatch.

Don't forget about the injector notch and the gasket area right above it.

Your DIY Looks very good. Remember the short side radius, its the ONLY place besides basic port matching that does anything to speak of. Smooth it out, increase the radius as much as possible. For extra but almost nothing, swirl polish the intakes, back cut the intakes, exhaust, radius the exhaust valve edge and finally incut the exhaust face. I suspect that most of this valve work is next to less than 1/2 percent total, but thats what the racers do.

ToyCollector, I'd go ahead and remove the valves and open the intakes correctly. With as much money as this stuff costs, why cut corners on something like the ports, JMHO. :)

Thank god for a good roomate who does not mind me bogarting the dinner table and a portion of the living room for my project. :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1113160695.jpg

I also just recently received my new super cup bump sticks and titanium retainers from John Dougherty.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1113160839.jpg

I have also recently acquired most of my other internal engine goodies from wayne and EBS. Right now I am just short a new set of exhaust valves and head studs from having everything I need to put the engine together. After that the remaining big items are the turbocharger, intercooler and fuel injectors. Confidence is high that I can get this wrapped up sometime this summer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1113161111.jpg