What would you do? Stock 3.2 Rebuild
 

Hello Everyone. Kindly looking for some advice and a next step really!
Just put my case halves together on my 85 3.2 engine. Everything seemed to go very well but after torqueing it up (followed Wayne's method per the book), I am seeing a lot less Loctite 574 squeeze-out from the top of the engine versus the bottom. I have included some pictures of top and bottom as a comparison. Everything seemed to seat very well when I dropped the left-hand-side onto the right and it also looked like I had really good coverage of the 574 before I did that, top and bottom.

Just wondered if anyone has seen something similar or know of any reasons it could have pulled together like this? This was a stressful process for me and I went through 3 or 4 dry fits (no 574) before I did the real one yesterday.

My concern is whether to tear it all down again and clean, redo or continue on as is and hope for the best!

Any advice would be very welcomed. Thank youhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709677188.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709677188.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709677188.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709677188.jpg

interesting, subscribing because i would like to know as well.

That case seam above #8 nose bearing looks pretty wide to me. Did you leave case on its side while 574 dried?

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I agree about that gap but I looked more closely and it seems the gap is just near the surface and there is a tighter metal-metal contact just a bit further in. I'll take another look this evening and add any pics if I can

Mike

Anything that doesn’t look cosher near the # 8 , i would definitely open the case again. (Don’t ask
Me how i know)

I used 574 on my '88 rebuild a few years ago but it seems there are some who suggest that there are better options for this area. I think this on on that massive sealant thread that has been going on forever.

I used 574 on my '88 rebuild a few years ago but it seems there are some who suggest that there are better options for this area. I think this on on that massive sealant thread that has been going on forever.

That gap over #8 doesn't look correct. Maybe the timing (dowel) pin isn't engaged properly. I'd pull it apart. JMO

I agree.

Just wanted to follow-up with you all and thanks again for the suggestions. I have decided to shuck the oyster and not proceed thanks to a few of you that noticed the problem around #8 bearing. Not sure what it is yet but should know over the weekend.

I actually found that I could insert a 0.010" feeler gauge through the case near the #8 and that the 574 was still wet in that area, which I suppose makes sense if there is a gap and some small amount of air could get at it. See picture

Will follow-up with my findings soon. Hoping for a pearl!

Regards Allhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709848398.jpg

The #8 nose bearing area is critical as far as sealing to avoid leaks. Lots of good tips on how to ensure that's done correctly on some of the "oil leak" threads. I think you are doing the smart thing and it will pay off in the long run.

You ain't the first to make that mistake! ;)

were/are you able to turn the crank 360+ degrees...?
I would also look for a pearl inside...))

any update on this ? Curious what the problem was/is .

H