Open the engine, what so you think i should do
 

Hello,

i have buy a 82 SC from 82. It is a US Model with approx 60.000 miles.
Now i have check the valve clearance and find some brocken head bolds, i did not see, feel or here anythink about that. the car drive nomal.

No i think about the repair and want to know your opinion.
First some more details about what i plan with the car. In the next to years i want to replace the CIS with the manifold from the 3,2 and install an EFI with COP setup.
I also want to enlarge the cylinder head intake and exhaust on my milling machine.,, no big deal. I also have an SSI exhaust manifold install in the car.
The car hase also hydr. chain tensioner install.

My question is. If i remove the engine and open it, what do you think i have to change or make new for good setup that revs good and have a little mor power then the orginal one.. ?

My opinion: The US hase a very low compresion, so i have to think about new pistions to get more compression in the range of 10:1. Second i think about new camsahfts to get the max power in a higher range. With the head ported and the 3,2manifold and the SSI this can be good.. What do you think. What would you do? Do i have to change other parts like the oil pump?

Thank you for your help.
Have a nice day
Martin

If you want the big valves for your '82, look at the 1978-1979 heads as they are already larger, then you can focus on massaging the ports to match flow, especially if you are going to add the 3.2 intake plenum.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751870565.jpg

If you want Carrera sized valves, then ya, modify the ones you have, but valves that are too large have their performance drawbacks.

If the engine has only 60,000 miles, I would not open the case, unless it is leaking oil from the case seam. Even if you open the case to fix a leak, keep the original main and rod bearings and measure them. If they are within specifications, and do not have visible damage, then keep using them.

Not only will you save the cost of new bearing shells, but you will have bearings that have proven themselves good in service. Several people here have received new bearings that were not made correctly, or the clearances and measurements "stacked up" to cause the bearing clearance to be out of spec.

Are you planning to do the head studs now and the build later? Or all at once (which would be my advice).

For context: I have a very similar build to what you’re planning, although I went for a (custom Steve Wong) chipped Motronic setup. Had to draw a line somewhere and an aftermarket ECU, tuning it, and ongoing support weren’t it for me.

Originally an early U.S. 3.0 CIS w/ 8.5:1 CR, big port heads & CIS that is now a 3.2SS by way of 98mm Mahle 10.2:1 P&Cs, 993SS cams, the 3.2 intake & ported throttle body, port matched heads (to match the intake), Carillo rods, LW flywheel, SSIs & Dansk 2–1 (existing), a bunch of other small things. ≈250rwhp or so with some timing left in it.

We did do new main & rod bearings (Clevite, not Glyco) for longevity. The only reports of bad bearings I’ve seen are certain Brazilian made Glyco’s.

Hello,

thank you for your answers! :-)
@917_Langheck: I did not understand exact what you mean.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751922365.png
As i understand the 82er have got the same valve dia as the 78-79. The 82er only have got the small port dia... but this is what i easy can do on my millining machine (also CNC)...

@PeteKz: I think similar to you. Why open the case and change parts were i defenty know this are good quality. On the other hand i think it is an old car and no one know exakt what the car history is... so why to risk an fatal error... so i tend also to inspekt all parts to see in what shape all is... and the i deside what to make new and what i sond change... i think if i can get the parts here in germany from porsche i only buy engine parts there.

@silverlock: If i remove the engine and make the head studs, then my plan is also to do every other think i want und must do.. so i can drive the engine and car the next 60.000
Thank you also for your infromation about your setup. Sounds very very good and simular to what i think i want to do :-)
250 HP i do not need, my goal is about the 231 from the 3,2.... but this is not a must have...

Regards
Martin

Martin, sorry for the miscommunication. For "valve" read "port" as that was what I had intended to speak to. With the '78-79 heads, less work would need to be done. That said, '80-83 heads will bee less costly to acquire if you have to.

My 2 cents. If you have to pull it down to do studs, it is really not much more work to split the case.

then you will know what you have.

I can't tell you how many times a "dry" engine leaked after being removed and installed for other than oil leaks.
I think they may not like the impact/jostling they take on the jack and on the way to the engine stand.