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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Posts: 2
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HeaterBoxes/Exhaust
I have '70 T 2.2 with SERIOUSLY rusted out heater boxes and exhaust. I am considering Bursch heater by-pass pipes with steel-pak muffler. I have never used the heat (even if it did actually work), and would prefer the added HP. I am considering the Bursch as a "low cost" way to make sure I don't want or need heat, before I invest in Stainless. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks!
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'70 T Mom |
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 7,842
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Bursch is good cheap stuff and works fine, but will rust out too in a few years. Not a long term solution, if that's what you're after.
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Several BMWs |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Posts: 2
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That's kind of what I thought, but it should give me enough time to decide if that is what I want to do with the SSI. It's a $400-500 investment, and the HP increase can always help! I feel like I'm pedaling as fast as I can on the straights...The twins pass me like I'm standing still....Just trying to get as much Hp as I can without mos=difying too much...
Thanks for the input...
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'70 T Mom |
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PRO Motorsports
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 4,580
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A 2.2T motor isn't even capable of utilizing the stock exhaust, much less larger headers.
Besides, the stock heat exchangers already are basically tuned, equal-length headers that just happen to have heater boxes around them. It really would be cheaper in the long run to put that money toward (real) SSI's. If you cut the heater boxes off from around your heat exchangers, you will find some nice stainless headers hiding under those rusty heater boxes. The only portion that rusts (besides the boxes surrounding the pipes) is the section between where the 3 go into 1, and the muffler inlet. There are replacement pieces that can be welded in there. The only reason to go with headers in place of the Factory heat exchangers or SSI's is to get larger pipe diameter. And that is only necessary on much lager and better breathing motors. Your 2.2T doesn't need them.
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'69 911E coupe' RSR clone-in-progress (retired 911-Spec racer) '72 911T Targa MFI 2.4E spec(Formerly "Scruffy") 2004 GT3 |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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You will not get any increase in HP by replacing your exhaust. The 1974 and earlier exhausts (except for the real early 1965-era ones) are excellent, and are just about as good as you can do. So, don't count on any HP increase. The HP increases are only applicable on 1975 and later cars with the CATs and thermal reactors.
-Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: SE PA
Posts: 3,188
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Quote:
I just went through this decision process after my Bursch headers rusted out. In the end I decided to spend the extra coupla hundred bucks for the SSIs. Compared to a painted mild steel header, the SSIs are a real bargain even if you don't care about heat. Seems to me there's a bit of a gap in the market. Someone should offer street (i.e., that go all the way back to a dual inlet muffler) headers in stainless steel in that ~$600 price range. |
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