2.2E engine won't turn on assembly
 

I'm pretty sure this was a working engine before it originally seized.

Detective work pointed to its original car being in a smash, resulting in the engine running dry of oil. A couple of piston rings were smeared up the sides of their pistons. It needed a new pil pump but all else seems good. None of the con rods are bent.

I am now reassembling the engine with new bearings, 964 oil pump, new pistons and cylinders.

The crank measures all standard and I believe I saw the letters "std." on the bearings. The intermediate shaft turns in situ with the oil pump attached, and the crank beds in and turns in situ., with the case in halves.

On closing the engine halves, it seems pretty tight as the flanges come within 5mm of each other, and once they're pulled fully together there seems to be no way to turn the engine. I put the pulley bolt on the end and tried to turn it with a wrench, but it's stuck.

The con rods aren't butting up against anything and the chains aren't caught.

I tested the crank turns in the old bearings some time ago and I found it tight, but provided i gave it a bit of a turn before bolting the halves together, to get everything to bed in perfectly straight, it turned fine.

How much torque is normally required to turn the engine?

I haven't pulled everything apart again yet, but I'm wondering if maybe the bearings are for an undersize crank. The only other theory I have is insufficient backlash on the ims drive gear. But I don't think either of those is likely, so I'm all out of ideas. Any suggestions?

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With a mag case, that usually means that the mainline is not true. Probably needs a line hone or an over bore, worst case with oversize OD bearings.

It should turn pretty easily by hand when everything is torqued. Have your case measured by a Porsche machine shop that does cases. Like John said, the mag cases have a tendency to warp when disassembled, and the only fix is to hone or machine it.

Ok thanks for the advice. I didn't torque it fully down. I wonder if it will help to torque it down fully.

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Wouldn’t hurt to plastigauge and check bearing clearance when you torque it down.

Remove the spark plugs. it will eliminates compression, making it much easier to turn the engine by hand and see what's binding.

Unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel. This eliminates the transmission, clutch, and release bearing from the equation.

did you already apply the loctite? I had same problem recently ,the case was machined and i saw it on the rig the crank was spinning free.So when i went to assembly it had the problem ..all i had to do is tap it with a rubber hammer so it gets aligned, There are no guide tubes on front of the case studs so when you marrie it together it could be just a milimeter off..
Ivan

Did you measure bearing clearances?

Has this been resolved?
Bruce

Resolved today, I believe. All my crank journals are original factory spec. The bearings I bought as standard but did not check the part numbers myself. Upon removal I see they bear the numbers 901 132 50. I'm right in thinking that's 0.25mm undersize on the inside, correct?

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Rob, it looks like you left in the case screens, ditch them, it was an early thing, they restrict oil flow away from the crank.

The bearing shells should be stamped 0.25 if that's the case.

I believe that those are std bearings

Listen to John Walker post #2