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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
Groesbeck Hurricane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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Unhappy Throw Out Bearing Problem

Post Re-Build Squeal

OK I pulled the motor this evening and did not like what I found. The motor had been put back into the car and ran less than three minutes. The fork is bent (just as Wayne predicted) but the throw out bearing is just trashed. The guide tube appears to be in round (I ran a caliper around it with no deflection). When removing the remains of the bearing (the bearing part still looks new *&#$@#^&#*&@) I noted that the pressure plate did not depress very far. I also noted more movement of the throw out bearing than when I installed it.

Just to note, I did "force" the mating for the final 3/8" of travel. Is this where I damaged the throw out bearing? Could something else be wrong? I'd hate for Pelican to have a run on bearings from Central Texas!!

I have another new fork but need to buy a new bearing. Is there anything else I should be looking at? Any thoughts as to what I am doing wrong? I, once again, did not remove the transmission but I can easily remedy that Thursday night.

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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 07-22-2003, 06:20 PM
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I'm a big believer in dropping the tranny with the motor.

That way you can be a lot more careful about mating the tranny and engine back together.
Old 07-22-2003, 06:49 PM
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make sure both ends of the fork engage the T/O bearing, instead of just one. i did that back in the 70s at the dealer, on a 930, so i know it can be done. a mirror and flashlight is used to eyeball the engagement thru the hole on top of the bellhousing, as the engine gets close to the trans.
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Old 07-22-2003, 06:52 PM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
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350,

Sounds like my Thursday is set for taking the transmission out...

JW,

I have looked through the top hole and ensured the top of the fork is engaged but could not see below. This might be easier with the transmission out of the car...

ooooh boy!
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 07-22-2003, 07:02 PM
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"Just to note, I did "force" the mating for the final 3/8" of travel."

Check for bent/damaged transmission input shaft and damaged pilot bearing. Jim
Old 07-23-2003, 05:20 AM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
Groesbeck Hurricane's Avatar
 
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Jim,

Good thoughts on checking. I did it last night after taking out but everything "appears" straight to my eye and ruler. Do you have any suggestions on how to verify? I'm still very confused on how I have lost two throw out bearings that were new and had about 30,000 miles on them. I will be doing this re-mate outside of the car. Thank you!

EDIT:

I also ordered a new guide tube, just in case!
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.

Last edited by Groesbeck Hurricane; 07-23-2003 at 07:59 AM..
Old 07-23-2003, 05:59 AM
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Factory transmission manual shows a procedure for checking and straightening the input shaft once it is removed from the transmission. Requires dial indicator, precision v-blocks and shop press (for straightening).

What about your pressure plate? Did you replace it last time along with the clutch realease bearing? The diaphragm or finger spring may be damaged or warped. Was the pressure plate released gradually and evenly by loosening the screws to the flywheel by working around the pressure plate? In other words one doesn't want to loosen one section completely and then the other sections as this can warp the diaphragm or finger springs. Re-installation should be the same process in reverse; again to avoid warping the spring. Jim

Last edited by Jim Sims; 07-23-2003 at 10:29 AM..
Old 07-23-2003, 10:26 AM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
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Jim,

I was wondering about the finger springs. I always work in a star pattern on tightening/loosening things and the entire clutch was replaced 30K ago. The clutch worked fine before I pulled the motor out to repair leaks and have driven about 1.5 miles since I started up with this problem. (at least the motor is not leaking...)

Everything lays flat on a glass surface, but that could be misleading. Still, I am a little worred about the finger springs. How can I easily check their integrity? I would think they were pushed too far toward the engine, not pulled further away.

Thanks for giving me ideas! I appreciate it!
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 07-23-2003, 10:32 AM
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Wayne 962's Avatar
Quote:
[i]
I have looked through the top hole and ensured the top of the fork is engaged but could not see below. This might be easier with the transmission out of the car... [/B]
Actually, more difficult with the tranny removed, as you can't look up the bottom. I would keep the tranny where it is...

I think you missed the alignment on the fork, and then jammed it into place. You do have all of the helper spring mechanism, etc. disconnected, right? If so, the mating process should not require any tweaking, although you might have to rotate the crankshaft so that the starter gear and splines on the transmission shaft mate well.

-Wayne
Old 07-23-2003, 12:49 PM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
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Jim,

Thank you for the clarification!

Wayne,

all mechanisms are disconnected. The fork was able to swing of its own volition. In fact, the first time I jabbed and looked the fork was in front of the bearing, I undid and went at her again. Would missing one end of the fork cause enough torque on the throw out bearing to tear up the inside sleeve?
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 07-23-2003, 01:18 PM
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Yup, once again JW may have hit the nail on the head. That sounds like a very plausible explanation, particularly if the engine and tranny didn't go in perfectly straight. I think that you'll get it this time. You can also feel the clutch once you have it mated together - you know what it should "feel" like...

-Wayne
Old 07-23-2003, 08:23 PM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
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removed, repaired, replaced...

I started her up and she sounded great, no squeal. I went through the gears in the garage and all felt good going in. I'm waiting till this afternoon to drive, but I did pull her out of the garage and gave her a bath. Hopefully, this is the end of this...
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 07-27-2003, 10:18 AM
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Hope the test drive goes well. Please summarize what you found and what you did. Jim
Old 07-27-2003, 10:29 AM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
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Jim,

I placed a new post. Thanks for your assistance!!

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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 07-27-2003, 03:14 PM
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