Good thread everyone!

There are two issues here; locking compounds and thread interference/corrosion.

Many (most) aftermarket/replacement studs may be Loctited in place. Locktite Red (271) fails and releases above about 550F. This is where heating the stud to low red is useful.

Getting the stud threads to release is usually from differential expansion. Cool the stud with dry ice or liquid nitrogen and heat the case.

Impact shock also helps releasing the threads. A few blows in with a steel hammer and smacks out with a slap hammer help release the threads. If a stud is broken off about 20 cm from the case, you can TIG weld a ½” socket to it and try an impact wrench.

If the stud is broken off at the case some try left-hand EzOuts, etc. Only try with extreme temperature differential. Most attempts result in failure.

Drilling the stud remains out is ok if it doesn’t have inserts already and you intend to install them. Drilling out inserts is a whole another issue.

“Electric discharge machining” (EDM) is the preferred out-source method. In some locals they will come to you to perform the job. This is a very common operation and you don’t have to split the case.

Flame away, I have my Nomex on.

Best,
Grady

All I know is that when I tried to the "heat the case not the stud" approach was that I found it wasn't possible. As soon as you remove the torch the case cools so quickly from heat sinking that you can touch it and not get burned. Touch the the stud that "wasn't" heated and you'll burn your finger. So basically you're using the "heat the stud" approach whether you aim the torch at the stud or the case. :)

You wern't using enough heat, and the best method is to heat and remove the stud at the same time.

Unless the whole spigot area is smoking hot your heat source is too small.

I will second this. YOu got to add a WHOLE bunch of heat, that means a real torch, almost no other way.