The stock 2.7 build begins
 

Okay,
This weekend I started assembly. Everything on the crank went great aside from a slight problem with one nut (see img below).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1064195635.jpg
Parts all clean and ready

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1064195664.jpg
Okay, what the heck happened here... took me a few minutes to realize why this nut wouldn't go on.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1064195742.jpg
So after all the clearances were checked and I got a new rod nut it went together great. Nice smoother movement.

Case was a bit harder, I had 74 bearings, but at some point my case was refit for the late style where the tabs moved. So I had to go get some of the correct ones locally. Then I had a missunderstanding about how the piston squirters should work. Thanks to several folks here I successfully got them tested.
So after at least 5 hours of cleaning on the case alone, it doesn't even look close to as clean as Waynes, but the cleaning cloth kept coming out clean so I'm sure it's clean enough.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1064195957.jpg
Parts and tools all ready to go.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1064195992.jpg
Wife giving me a hand putting assembly lube on the bearings

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1064196074.jpg
And here she is bending the oil nut lock tabs over (I swear I did do some of the work too :) )

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1064196134.jpg
And here is the bottom end all together. Crank moves very nicely :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1064196187.jpg
But UTKarmannGhia stopped by and notices my Flywheel seal had slipped and wasn't on straight :( So I plan to pull it and replace it. No need to risk a leak over a $10 part.

Now as soon as my P/Cs get back from EBS, I can continue on with the build.

Thanks for the wealth of knowledge available here and especially to Wayne for writing such a great rebuild book.

Pat

Oh yeah, forgot one question.
On the through bolts, I torqued them by turning the nut and holding the bolt very still as to not disturb that little blue o-ring.
Well, after I got done and went to clean off the black silcone sealant that oozed out around the washers, I noticed that several of them had some small pieces of the o-ring (blue) actually get squished out around the base of the washer on the bolt side. The nut sides were fine.
Not sure how this happened or what to do with it now? Anyone else run into this problem?
My guess is that if I tried to fix it, I'd just do more damage than good.

Pat

dtw and I ran into this problem this weekend when were rebuilding his not so T engine. Our final hypothosis is that when we went to put on the black silicone we put it in the bevel where the O ring rides. When the bolt gets torqued down the black silicone get squeezed out breaking the o ring. Our plan of attack for fixing it is to get a new set of O rings and replace them one at a time so that the case stays evenly torqued.

Any engine builders out there run into this?

Tim,

Are you saying to place the blue o-ring on first then cover it with the black sealant? Or use just a little of the black sealant first on the washer, then place the o-ring in the grove, and apply more black sealant over the o-ring?

Brian Minson
9 Magazine
http://www.9magazine.com

must be the silicone hydraulic'ing out o-ring bits? that would be my best guess...

Need some 1974 911S cams? I have a set of newly reconditioned ones...

-Wayne

Brian,
After more contemplation on the orings we decided that we really don't like the silicone idea and that we should just lube them with silicone lubricant (different than the sealant) and call it a day. I think what was happening was that the silocone was squeezing out the orings. If I did use the silicone I would only put it on the outside where it can't reach the bevel so that the oring can move as it should.