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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Petaluma - San Francisco Area
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In Line Oil Cooler or any other oil cooling suggestions?
I am rebuilding a 74 2.7 with no additional oil coolers other than the engine mounted one. I know I need to add additional cooling. Has anyone tried and has first hand knowledge about the "Compact" oil cooler Performance Products sells and how effective it is. It's the one that replaces the "S" hose.
I am also open to other suggestions for additional oil coolers and what the cost would be.
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PorschePilot 74 911S Targa - High Quality 2.7 Rebuild and Full Body Restoration MID9 Member Beechcraft V-Tail Bonanza (Fly'n high and low) |
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I know a friend who has one on his and he said it droped about 5-10C not a whole lot but it helped his 2.4E drop from way too how to just too hot. (240-250 to 240-230)
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Tim 1973 911T 2005 VW GTI "Dave, hit the brakes, but don't look like your htting the brakes...what? I DON'T KNOW, BRAKE CASUAL!!!" dtw's thoughts after nearly rear ending a SHP officer |
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Thanks Tim. I suspected that the temp drop was minimal.I need to find a cost effective way to get a real oil cooler up front.
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PorschePilot 74 911S Targa - High Quality 2.7 Rebuild and Full Body Restoration MID9 Member Beechcraft V-Tail Bonanza (Fly'n high and low) |
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The problem that I see with the "s" hose cooler is that it keeps the heat in the back by the engine.
If that same amount of cooler were put in the air stream so that it transferred the heat out and away from the car, I think it would be more effective. The best idea is to get a front cooler of some kind. I am in the process of installing one in the front valance as per RS or RUF design. The whole idea being to get rid of the heat without it contaminating the cooling air of the engine. Bob
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Bob Hutson |
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I finally broke down and put the 89 Carrera setup (with fan) in my '74. With the cost of rebuild and the annoyance of having to limit your driving based on temperature, I felt that it was worth the cost. Especially on a '74 magnesium case '74 which would be susceptible to head stud problems. If you want the elegant Porsche factory solution....which should certainly increase your car's value, Pelican sells a kit (Pelican Super Kit). It is a bit pricey, but it is really convenient because it comes with everything you need in the box except for the 4 small bolts (M 6x10) that attach the fan brackets to the fan. It has the fan, horn relocation kit , clips, seals, nuts, washers, etc. It even has the factory Carrera wiring harness so you can pretty much plug and play. If you want to save some money, you can get the bits and pieces from your local parts house and you can build the harness yourself. But be warned, if you want the factory install, I count that it requires 49 pieces including nuts, bolts, and brackets...so finding them might be a pain in the rear. Elephant sells some nonfactory versions which seem very good and even more efficient than the factory pieces, but it all depends if you want to stick to factory parts. If I could not find a good price on used hardlines, I would probably go with the elephant line as they dissipate more heat. A loop cooler with these might be enough for a cool place like San Francisco. You can buy a used loop cheap, but you will still need the expensive hardlines and thermostat.
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74 Targa 3.0, 89 Carrera, 04 Cayenne Turbo http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/fintstone/ "The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money" Some are born free. Some have freedom thrust upon them. Others simply surrender |
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Has any tried using Aeroquip hoses for running up front instead of the factory hard lines? How about experience with the Mocal 74 theromstat?
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PorschePilot 74 911S Targa - High Quality 2.7 Rebuild and Full Body Restoration MID9 Member Beechcraft V-Tail Bonanza (Fly'n high and low) |
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There are several reasons I don't recommend the mocal thermostat.
1 - The factory tstat is both a temp and pressure regulator. If the pressure in the external cooler becomes too high (due to a crushed line or other blockage), a bypass valve opens to flow oil and prevent starvation. No such valve on the mocal. 2 - Mocal has AN type fittings. Connecting to the factory stuff requires cludgy and expensive adapters. AN-12 is more restrictive than the factory 30mm fittings. 3 - The fittings point the wrong direction, making installation difficult. Some people use braided stainless. But you have to deal with the wet noodle problem: ![]() The saggy lines can ruin the look of an otherwise nice car. Plus the rubber core of braided hose acts as an insulator, therefor sacrificing the lines as a major contributor to cooling. You really need to go AN-16 if you do braided since AN-12 is a good bit more restrictive than factory. Lastly, total it all up with hose-ends and adapters. You may be dissapointed to see how small the savings will be. Probably 10-15% off the total installation cost. And don't expect to get as much at resale time. But, it can be done.
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Chuck Moreland - elephantracing.com - vonnen.com |
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