Please Help Me with Engine Rebuild Book Corrections...
 

I've got to send the list off to MBI today. Here is what I have so far:

How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines 1965-1989

Correction List
---------------

Page 154 - The camtower nuts should be torqued to 75% of the value listed in Appendix A.

Page 159 - The value 54.8mm should be subtracted, not added to the value.

Page 199 - It should be 915 transmission, not 914 transmission.

Page 185 - The swivel foot is shown on the left, not the right.

Page 77 - The four vertical lines are indicated by the green arrow, not the blue arrow.

Page 216 - The intake and exhaust valves are numbered incorrectly in the photo (1 = Intake, 2 = Exhaust)

Page 204 - The 911SC Rod Bearing Journals should be 53.020-53.059 for the bore, and 52.971-52.990 for the shaft

Page 204 - The 3.2/3.3 Rod Bearings Bore should be 55.020-55.059

Page 77 - The Turbo pump has a larger pressure side as well as a larger scavenge side.

Page 16 - "...when the cylinder heads have broken..." should read "...when the cylinder head studs have broken..."

Page 112 - 44 Weber Carb should read 40 Weber Carb

Page 112 - Typo "modifications"

Page 183 - Section Heading should be "REAR ENGINE MOUNT BAR" or simply "ENGINE MOUNT BAR"

Page 197 - "...you let the clutch out..." should be "...you let the clutch pedal out..."

Page 119/120 - "Plastigage" spelled incorrectly

Page 119 - Plastigage should be used at the sides of the rods - not in the middle. The rods stretch when under load, and you want to measure the clearances at the side.

Page 82 - Glass plate method is described in Chapter 5, Section 9

Page 180 - Valve Covers, 13mm hardware should be 8mm hardware

I also have pages 176-177 flagged as having some type of error, but I can't find it now???

Thanks in advance...

-Wayne

Page 208: the notation under the cylinder diagram says "cylinder CT." This is a layout marker and has nothing to do with the actual diagram
Page 208, on the same diagram:
- A = tolerance group for cylinder height
- B = tolerance group for cylinder diameter
- C = Manufacturer's Identification

I think you recomended to use teflon tape on an oil line fitting. I wouldn't recomend tape. Pieces of tape can get inside the motor and cause problems

In the cam chain sprocket alignment procedure (page 159?), you give the shim thickness as 0.25mm. I think you meant 0.5mm. I overshot the correct alignment 3 times before I figured this out. The shims I have from three engines all measured 0.5mm, and I found it listed as 0.5 in other references.

Yes, I think that the shim thing is a typo. It's a matter of preference on the Teflon tape - I haven't heard of any problems using it on this tapered pipe fitting...

-Wayne

Wayne, when you have all the corrections noted, please post them here so we can amend our books.

Is it just me or in photo 6-11 should the chains be reversed?

Is it too late? I had some, I think with the specifications section I found when measuring parts.

I agree with Doug, It would be great to have a list compiled for those of us who already have the book.

If it's not too late I will get my book out of the car and post what I found.

I recently posted a topic regarding the cam oil restrictor. You might mention that a new oil pressure gauge will be needed to read the new higher oil pressures.

Yes, 6-11 is a mirror image in the book, and is incorrect.

There is a list of corrections already on http://www.101projects.com

If you caught any more errors, please let me know - not too late...

-Wayne

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts
[B]Yes, I think that the shim thing is a typo. It's a matter of preference on the Teflon tape - I haven't heard of any problems using it on this tapered pipe fitting...

The teflon tape acts as a lubricant and you may overtorque the fitting without noticing, cracking the female part. This is a common sense question. If you take care and don't overtorque and get bits inside the line, there is nothing wrong with it. I'd do it dry, two things less to worry about. I have not much common sense at times...

George

The other side of the coin is the fact that it is nearly impossible to replace this part without dropping the engine, or removing the fuel injection...

-Wayne

How about some sort of pipe sealer or loctite?

By the way: Is there much you can do on these engines without dropping them? :D

George

Yes you should use pipe sealant on pipe fittings or you can use hyd. sealant. But don't use tape. The problem with teflon tape is that there is a chance that some can get into the oiling sys. and cause a problem. It has never happened to me but why would you take the chance?

The list has yet to be updated.

Interesting, I fixed the page, and uploaded it - the computer must have stuck the page somewhere else!

Okay, the page is now updated. Thanks for the note...

http://www.101projects.com/911-Rebuild/corrections.htm

-Wayne

On my 77 2.7 'S' the flywheel bolts are M12 x 1.25, the book says M12 x 1.5. Either your pitch is wrong or my crank is.

Not in the book, but on the engine rebuild wizard for backdating a 3.2 to SSI's I think you have the part numbers for the oil line with front cooler and oil line without front cooler reversed.

Page 201, Check the torque figures. Anything with more then 1 ft-lb/cc should be suspect or else your units are wrong. The best 4-valve Supertouring engines were making about 1.03 ft-lbs per cc. I doubt that many 911 motors can do that without a turbo.

cc, as in cubic centimeter. As in my motor being 3k cc (don't know the exact off the top of my head) by your standards should have 3,090 lbs of torque?!?!?! (note: i excited myself at that thought :D)