How much HEAT !!!

[flmont]

Man those studs are tough....How much or how long...do I need to apply the Butane (all I have ) torch too those very very stuborn case studs.... Thanks Frank

[beepbeep]

Use Acy torch instead...don't worry too much about melting the case, it's acting as a big heat-sink. And don't heat the studs themselves...heat part of case where studs are bolted to.

I'm sure Wayne or JW will chime in soon.

[Wayne 962]

Butane or propane, if you use it, will need 15-20 minutes to heat up the localized area of the case...

-Wayne

[Rot 911]

I used oxy-acy torch running the flame up and down the cylinder wall alongside the stud. Counted to thirty and then gave a bit of a turn clockwise then slowly turned counterclockwise.

[Wayne 962]

Originally posted by Kurt V
I used oxy-acy torch running the flame up and down the cylinder wall alongside the stud. Counted to thirty and then gave a bit of a turn clockwise then slowly turned counterclockwise.

The only reason why I don't recommend this is because most people don't have these, and they are somewhat dangerous around magnesium...

-Wayne

[flmont]

Thanks Guys....Frank

[john walker's workshop]

no problem, just do the mag cases outside, and when they light off, don't look at it, and forget using water. just kidding really. i've never set one off, but hey, there's always a first time. the stud should loosen way before the flare goes off.

[snowman]

Got to keep repeating this until some of the more slow types try it and find out it works.

What you are doing by heating the thing up is to break any locktite bonds, or other bond that may have formed due to disimilar metals or rust or whatever. You are NOT trying to make the case grow more than the stud, as it is impossible, due to the intimate contact between the two. To accomplish this you heat either the case or the stud to a point where the bond is broken. This cannot be achived with propane, it just dosen't make enough heat.

I prefer to heat the stud. the reason is that it turns color when heated enough, the case does not. If you melt or ignite the case you are Screwed. If you heat the stud until it just turns red in the daylight, thats enough, more than enough. Let it cool, and then the stud will back out without any effort.

The reason this works is NOT due to expansion of the case vs the stud at least directly. There is a difference in expansion, the difference will break any rust bond, if its locktite, it will carbonize the locktite and it will no longer hold anything, in any case it will come apart.

YOu can improve this method by first heating the stud untill red, and then squirting penetrating fluid on the threads. This will improve the disconnect, if thats necessary, and lube the thing as well.

[Rot 911]

Jack I agree with you on being screwed if you melt or ignite your case, but aren't you also losing the temper on the head studs by heating them up till they are red? I would be concerned about reusing any head stud that I took that kind of heat to.

[flmont]

Do the P/C's need to be removed for this ????.How does the heat affect the P/C's...Frank

[snowman]

Originally posted by Kurt V
Jack I agree with you on being screwed if you melt or ignite your case, but aren't you also losing the temper on the head studs by heating them up till they are red? I would be concerned about reusing any head stud that I took that kind of heat to.

Good point about the head studs. Maybe they should be replaced. As to the heat, if you get the case or the stud hot, they will be at the same temp, within a degree or so. You also have to remove them somehow. Since studs are less expensive than cases, I would sacrifice them. Race ware studs are a good idea reguardless, ie you should replace the studs anyway.

[john walker's workshop]

raceware wants 35# torque on their head studs. up from the stock 23#. that would tend to pull out most case savers in a mag case.