Engine Stand Spacer Question
 

Evening fellas -

I'm getting ready to drop my engine this Saturday and tackle my broken head stud (3 of them) problem.

How many spacers are needed to properly mount the engine on the yoke? I can't imagine it is a simple bolt up using just the nuts from the bell housing.

Right now I'm still putting together my parts list so I'll have many questions over the next few weeks for the experts in this forum.

Thanks in advance for all your help :)

Spacers? For the studs? I simply use some 1/2" sockets - they work fine. Make sure you use the factory yoke, or one that is extremely similar. Please don't listen to the pundits who tell you otherwise - this is not a tool to scrimp on.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/autocat/load_page.cgi?page_number=7&bookmark=8&model=911M& currsection=enginD

-Wayne

I did what Wayne recommends, using sockets as spacers.

I wish I would have bought one of these before the price went up.

I ended up taking out the studs & use bolts instead. The length of bolt is 50mm.

Why? You have now taken a one person operation of sliding the yoke onto the engine or the cases onto the yok into a possible two person operation.

Sure you can use sockets as spacers (hack), or cut some appropriately-sized ones from thick walled pipe.

I used those long, inside threaded, hex shaped thingies (used to join two threaded rods together) I forget what they are called, but they are found in most hardware stores. I found the correct diameter to fit just over the stud and then cut to size lengthwise used a washer and nut to tighten. Worked fine, I found it fit better than the sockets I had, but I'm sure the sockets will work just fine, if you remember you put them there..........now where was that deep socket?

Kurt,
Not really, the engine was lifted up by the hoist. I bolt the yolk to the engine, slide it into the stand.

But the real reason why I took the studs off was a long one - on a turbo, you need to 1st remove the exhaust headers BEFORE removing the the engine from the car or the cross pipe in the back will not clear the yolk (tell me how I found out). Hence, I ended up needed to juggle big time to temporarily use the universal yolk so that I can remove the exhaust headers then remount the engine onto the proper yolk. Live & learn :(

On aluminum cased motors I just remove the studs and use nuts and bolts to fasten it to the engine stand. For mag cases I made some spacers out of big nuts and washers. I wasn't really happy about that arrangment. Hmm, got to get a machinist friend to make me some spacers...
-Chris

Exactly what I did. They are called couplers, IIRC.

Tom

Thanks for the suggestions.

Wayne - yes, I'll be using the correct yoke. I also have both books and those are forming the basis for my parts list ;)

Doug have you used the engine rebuilding wizard here? It takes you step by step through each stage and lists all the parts you need.

Kurt - I must have missed the Wizard somehow. How does a feable old mind like mine access it ?

Wizard accessible from this page:

http://www.101projects.com/911-Rebuild/Kits.htm

-Wayne

Wayne: Thanks for the link - that will definately give me something to read this weekend after I get the engine out and assess things.

I wound up using a bunch of new 1/2" nuts as spacers and it worked out fine.

Now the teardown begins ...