I think I am in trouble!

code7rpd · 11-12-2003, 08:50 PM

I was trying to pull out my flywheel seal and badly marred the area on which it mounts. My screwdriver slipped and gouged it pretty bad. What should I do now? Is it beyond repair?

HawgRyder · HawgRyder's Garage

Loctite make a product that will fill some amazingly large gouges.
I think it's called Bearing Set....or similar.
Make sure everything is spotlessly clean to use it.
Bob

Wayne 962 · Wayne 962's Garage

Photo please?

-Wayne

code7rpd · 11-13-2003, 06:27 AM

You can see the little gouge at about the 100 O'clock position

HawgRyder · HawgRyder's Garage

It looks as if the gouge is at the back face of the seal seat.
If that is your concern...just use some regular locktite to seal it.
The perimeter face (circle or O.D.) is the sealing surface not so much the back face.
Bob

Wayne 962 · Wayne 962's Garage

Use a pick to pull out the seal, and then see what you have inside - I can't tell from looking at this picture. I assume you meant 10 o'clock or one?

-Wayne

code7rpd · 11-13-2003, 03:49 PM

I tried to pry out the seal but it won't budge. I am prying and scraping and still having a hard time removing it. I scraped some away from the damaged area. Here is a better pic. If you look close to the 1 o'clock area you can see an indentation.

code7rpd · 11-13-2003, 03:51 PM

You are right, it is the back seating area. Here is another picture and is there an easier way to get the gasket out. It won't pull out as one piece.

Jim Sims · 11-14-2003, 03:47 AM

There is a better way than a pick or pry tool but you'll have to fabricate the rig. These seals have a metal core which can be drilled into and then a sheet metal screw can be inserted into the hole. Make sure you do not drill too deeply, but just deep enough to make the starter or pilot hole for the sheet metal screw. Install screws at the 9:00 and 3:00 positions and ensure the screws are well engaged to the metal core of the seal. Select screws that are long enough to project outward adequately to attach a pair of vicegrips to. I recommend using the type sheet metal screw with the hex head. Then obtain a slide hammer and a pair of vice grips. Rig a connection between the slide hammer and the vicegrips. One method is to weld a metal eye to the head of the vicegrips adjustment screw and make a hook on the end of the slide hammer that engages this eye. Then clamp the vicegrips to the head of one of the screws and apply a few blows of the slide hammer. Then switch to the other screw and repeat. Alternate back and forth between screws until you "walk" the seal out. Once the seal is out, vacuum out any chips from drilling from the area. This method prevents damage to the sealing surfaces and also works on the pulley end seal. Cheers, Jim

5axis · 11-14-2003, 04:32 AM

Jim beat me to it. Here is a pic of a version of this very useful tool

david 89 turbo cab

code7rpd · 11-14-2003, 05:22 AM

Are you saying that the area I dented should be removed with the seal? Is that the metal core of the seal?

5axis · 05:34 AM

This dent is in the seal. Drill for sheet metal screws as Jim described. Then use a tool like I pictured to pop the sucker out.

code7rpd · 11-14-2003, 06:47 AM

You guys don't know how much better I feel!!! Thanks, you guys just made my day!!!

85Gold · 11-14-2003, 07:52 AM

When I remove seals I always remove from the outside part and do not pry around the sealing lip as you run a risk of damaging the sealing area. I would also never run a drill to remove a seal unless I was doing a full tear down as the risk of damage or leaving a shaving is to great IMHO.

Peter

Jim Sims · 11-14-2003, 09:06 AM

Quote:

[i] the risk of damage or leaving a shaving is to great IMHO[/B]

.

I thought the same thing when the technique was shown to me the first time but it is an unwarranted concern. If a variable speed drill motor (an air driven drill motor is best - superior control) is used along with drill stop and a sharp drill bit the risk is negliable in fact a lot less than the risk of marring something with a pry tool. Most of the cuttings collect in the old seal or in the residual oil in the seal; the rest are easy to collect and clean up. Cheers, Jim

code7rpd · 11-14-2003, 11:55 AM

Thanks for the help guys and I got it out. I ended up drilling a hole and inserting a seal puller tool which allowed me to pry it out without a problem. I did not that whe I was using a pick I made some very light scratches on the case - is that a concern? I saw in Wayne's rebuild book that prior to putting the case together he recommends putting some Curil-T on the case where the seal goes. Should I do the same thing? If so, do I still put the seal in dry?

Jim Sims · 02:04 PM

Never install a dynamic shaft rubber lip seal dry. Do the scratches run the full depth of the bore in the case? Do they have any sharp ridges or chips which might cut the seal? If no to both, you are likely okay. I usually just put motor oil on both the inner seal lips and the outer rubber surface of the seal that contacts the case. However given the scratches in the case bore I would also recommend you coat these surfaces lightly with Curil-T and the inner lips with motor oil. Cheers, Jim

code7rpd · 11-14-2003, 01:48 PM

Got it. Thanks for the help!

Wayne 962 · Wayne 962's Garage

Hmm, there are easier ways - simply take a small screwdriver and tap inwards the edge of the seal. You will seriously deform it, but then you can get a screwdriver in there and pry it out. All 100% without touching the outer surface...

-Wayne

Jim Sims · 11-16-2003, 04:45 AM

Hmm, I've experienced a seal "so stuck'' on the outer perimeter that using the "dent and pry technique" required an hour of careful work. The entire outer perimeter of the seal had to be dented away from the case bore to gain release. One had a "snowball's chance in hell" of simply prying it out with a dent for purchase of the pry tool - the seal core would locally fail and give way under the prying action. From now on, it's five minutes with a drill and slide hammer and the seal's off. Cheers, Jim