Thanks Jack. I did buy it and have already started doing the tensioner update on it as well as a clutch before I put it in. Seller said this won't void his "no knock" warranty.
I'm sure I'll be posting back with some more questions.

I'm still questioning the #5 leakdown of 19%!

I am trying to locate a fitting for the compression tester hose to hook up to compressor to see if I can hear where air is leaking from. Will try to put some pressure through #5 ASAP. Is 19% a horrible number on this cylinder? I thought that <10% was good, 10-20% was O.K., and >30% may mean more serious problems brewing. I think that I may have to get engine in car and run it for a while to get accurate results before I begin ripping top end apart.
Anybody agree?

19% is NOT a horrible number. Don't sweat it. Check the valves for proper adjustment, and run it. Even if it is a real leak number, ie valves or rings, you would NOT feel the difference if it were corrected. Run the thing for a year and check again. IF it is worse you will most likely find the source, most likely it will not be worse and the engine will continue to run for a long time. An other check you should do is a simple compression test, if all cylinders meet the std requitements, ie variation from cylinder to cylinder and have enough compression ( remember to have the throttle wide open when you measure compression) then everythings hunky dory.

Snowman, what is normal compression numbers?
Before I rebuilt my engine it was in the 185-190psi. (All but #4 see below.)
This was higher than anything I have seen posted.
I rebuilt it because I broke the top ring on #4.
I only have about 1500 miles on the rebuild and have not rechecked compression or leakdown yet. The P&C's are the same. (They met all wear specifications.) #4 had a dent where the intake valve contacted the piston. I believe there was a clearance problem and although it was not catistrophic I think when the valve was touching the piston it twisted the piston slightly and over time this resulted in wearing out the top ring to the point it broke.
Ed, let us know what you find with the air test. I found my fittings at one of the local home center. I put a T where the gauge goes and added the air hose fitting to the 3rd hole. This actually made a very imprecise leakdown tester. I turned the regulatior on my compressor to 100 psi and watch the needle on the compression tester. If you compaire #5 cylinder to the others you will not really get an accurate test to compair to anything else that is posted, but you will be able to make comparisons between one cylinder and another. The most important thing is to try and figure out where it's leaking if it is. If you can you can maybe fix it now or keep an eye on it as you drive the car.
A real leakdown tester can be had for less than $100 or you can build one from instructions found on this site. (Although there are a lot of variarions and discussions about how one should be built.)
Let us know what you find out!

Normal compression numbers are whatever the mfg says they should be. I would have to look up the number for the year and engine. I would give you the number but do not have the info handy at this time.

A pressure of 185 to 190psi sounds completely normal for a 9:1 compression engine. Cams can affect the number a lot so if your cam is different your compression may be lower if the duration is longer, or higher if the duration is shorter than stock.

Variation between cylinders is most important. For the case of 185psi the variation should be less than 18 psi. or about 10% of the reading. I haven't heard of one cylinder ever being a lot higher than the others ( unless its worn out and most holes are say 80psi and one is 180psi, but never most being 180 and one being 250 or something like it) Typically a worn engine might be say 130 to 150 psi and a BAD hole 80psi or less. If the typical is 185 to 190 and one hole is say 150, then a leakdown test is in order. The leakdown will tell you if the lower number is due to valves or rings . If you do a wet compression test you may be able to determine the porblem IF its the rings, otherwise its back to the leak down test. With the leakdown test you can tell if its the rings, valves, or both by listening to where the air is leaking out.

A general observation I have made about compression testing and leakdown testing is; Both are necessary to determine the true health of an engine. Its possible to have broken rings and pass a compression test, but a leakdown will show a huge problem. A leakdown can show a potential problem that isn't real, ie more than 10 % but less than 50%. a solid compression test, with the RIGHT numbers, eg 185 to 190 vs say 150 psi would indicate a problem with the test, not the engine.

Bottom line--- compression tests, leakdown tests are not black and white. If the tests are perfact, or real bad, all is well, but if there is some greyness, then experience is the key to determine what they really mean.

Thanks for the lesson!
The PO of my car kept very good records.
Most of the early work was done by dealers or very good shops that recorded the results on the tickets.

This car had the original 930/10 9.8:1 CR
Unfortunately in 1996 he opted to install a suposedly rebuilt 930/16 9.3:1
Kept the 930/10 CIS system on it which later was bastardized because of confusion and an inexperienced wrench.
I just rebuilt this engine. I carefully measured everything and found most things withing wear limits so the bottom end was refreashed with standard bearings. The ALUSIL P&C were fine so just new rings. The heads got redone with new valves, springs and guides. (I ported out the intake side to match the larger runners of the 930/10 CIS. The cams are stock with no evidence of regrind.
I have no idea what version P&C's are on the engine. I tried to get them identified, but it seems the only way to do that is to do the CC test.
I'm not racing so I wasn't worth the $$ to have someone do this.
(They are a stock CIS piston except I don't know the CR.)
I timed the cams to the 930/10 specs.

Snowman, in addition to the factors you listed above I have heard that the cam timing also has some effect on the compression readings.

With the age of these cars, and many of them have been rebuilt over the years, It's not likely many of them are box stock and would match any documented Compression numbers. What's more important is the knowledge of the particular engine (age) and the relationships between the reading of the 6 cylinders.
Both test are valuable. It's also good to map the results over time. This record is valuable in making the decision to rebuild before a catostrophic event takes plece.

Snoman, thanks again for the lesson.

Yes Jack, thanks for the pointers.
I attempted to get some pressure through #5 tonight but was hassled by the check valve inside the end of my compression tester hose....so I rigged up another air hose with the 14mm plug extension from the compression tester and put some air through. With #5 at mark on crank pulley, it sounded like air was coming from the spark plug area, while compressor regulator set to 20lbs pressure, losing pressure at 10 lbs per 12 seconds..........which leads me to believe I need to get a "REAL" setup to do this test. I'll see if I can find a leakdown tester here locally and RETRY. I'll keep you posted.

I have, however, been working on doing the tensioner update as I think this needs to be done as a safety precaution prior to installing engine Just got parts today, however, timing chain covers I received (from a Carerra I was told) do not have holes for oil thermo-time switch in left and temperature switch in right. Can I have these machined into them and what are the specs to do so?

My compression tester has a valve like in a tire stem. You can get the gadget to remove it at most auto stores. A leakdown tester will be harder to find.

Make sure #5 is at the top with the valves closed. If thay arn't now rotate the crank one revolution. You can also check your rocker arms if you have your valve covers off. They both should be on the back side of the cam and you should feel the clearance by wiggling them.
If there is no clearance you may have found your problem!
Adjusting your valves now would be a good idea anyway while the engine is out. 10 Times easier! If they are adjusted too tight the valve may not be closing all the way.
Most leakdowns are done at 100psi so don't be afraid to crank up the regulator.

On the covers, do they have the flat spots where the holes need to be drilled? If so any machine shop should be able to do this. They can take the diameter and thread dimensions off the temp switch or just take in your old covers.

I'm supprised they didn't come with the holes in them. You learn something new every day. I only have the hole in the lefdt cover for the thermo time switch because I don't have the lambda control CIS.

Yes, it does look like it has a tire-like stem in it. I'll get the tool and do that. When doing test, should crankshaft mark for #5 line up exactly with the mark on alt housing (top dead center)? I'm assuming that this is when all valves are closed for the cylinder....I guess I'm confused with what you mean by rotating the crank one revolution. (To get to #5, I rotate crank until rotor lines up with mark on housing to get me to #1 TDC, then rotate clockwise until I get to the 4th 120 degree mark past #1).

I plan on doing a valve check/job at this point as well as checking the cam timing...just got tools I need. Adjusting cam timing looks a little intense in nature, so I'll only do it if it looks like it's off.

Also, do I need to use new nylock nuts and washers on timing chain covers and valve covers when I reinstall........looks like it is recomended, but having trouble finding these items anywhere (Pelican does not sell the TC cover washers and nuts!)?

Yes the covers have the flat spots where holes need to go.....PO of engine included this kit with my engine purchase...all in kit is new except for the covers which he pulled off a Carerra, and the banjo fitting hollow bolts and washers. I also believe I need to acquire the oil line brackets on both sides that hold lines steady to cover (vibration reduction).

www.mcmaster.com

Try these guys for hardware. They are pretty inexpensive.
You should be able to find the locally at a good hardware store.

Since you are going to adjust your valves and maybe set yopur valve timing go ahead and take your valve covers off now.
Rotate the engine and watch everything work.
You will get the hang of it especially when you put your dial gauge on and watch the valves open and close.

You may be at the right spot for #5 but it's real easy to make sure. Grab the rocker arms if they both wiggle then you are. If one or the other is tight you are in the wrong spot.

You'll get the hang of it as you follow the sequence for adjusting your valves.
The most difficult thing about cam timing is trying to understand the procedure. Once you get everything set up you'll get the picture pretty fast. The second important thing is to make sure the chains are tight and both sides are the same.

When you get to that point let me know.

Put the air on it and look for leaks before you adjust anything. That way you will have a baseline.
Also record your cam timing before you adjust the valves.
The valve adjustment on #1 intake and #4 intake are criticle to the cam timing. If they are not adjusted right then the cam timing will read that it is off but this may just be due to the valve adjustment being tight or loose

Thanks Bill. What is the best material/type of nut and washer for this application...
It looks like the closest thing they have is a nylon insert nut but the max temp rating is 250 degrees.....is this too low (both for timing chain covers and valve covers)? Also, what material is best, ie. steel, stainless steel, brass, etc.?

There is a lot of discussion about this.
My engine never get's that hot.
I think I would worry if it was the exhaust studs.
Do a search. You will find a lot of opinions.
I wonder if the differen colors on the nylon inserts mean something?
I've seen clear/white blue and red.

Yeah, me too. I'll check it out.
(I hate the shopping part of doing this rebuild!)
Thanx

You should drive it now. Since carbon may have gotten between a valve and seat, do not adjust any valves tighter. Check them though, and back off any that are tight. Then put the engine in the car and drive it. With whatever new clutch pieces you need. Make all those other decisions after you see how it runs.

Should I simply check and adjust to .004 spec?

Also, I had a chance to create the setup for putting pressure on cyl #5. With pressure, I could hear what sounded like air coming through the left timing chain cover (I have covers off right now). It seemed to be holding pressure though. With Bill's setup as directed above, pressure gauge read 92 PSI with compressor set at 100. Could this be a bad ring? I listened at exhaust and injectors and did not hear anything there.

bump

Sounds pretty good if it's holding 92 psi cold.
If this was the real leak down tester it would mean 8% loss. Right up there with the others. (Not Bad, good!)
Did you do the leakdown at the seller's place before or after you ran the engine? Hot or cold.

If your hearing no air at the intake or exhaust then the valves are holding. The only other place is past the rings and like you said you herd it comming from the left chain case.
Remember the test you did is not very precise or accurate. Did you compaire it to the other cylinders? That would give you a relative comparison between the cylinders.

Like Superman said it's likely that some carbon got stuck in one of the valves on your initial test. If it did it's probably gone since the valves are holding.

Like he said, make sure there are no tight valves and get it running.
Do the tests again after some driving and adjust the valves then.

Good luck!
Did you figure out what to do about tapping the holes in the chain case covers for the sensors?

Bill,

The leakdown at seller's place was done warm after running engine. I did not compare to other cylinders yet....will try to do this weekend.

Do you think I should adjust valves before I install and run it or after? It looks like it would be tougher to get to them after installing. Since it was run prior to purchase, would there be carbon stuck in valves still, preventing me from adjusting them properly?

As far as the chain covers go, another stumbling block....see my thread on that here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/137247-oh-man-switch-holes-chain-covers-wrong.html

On the positive side, I just received a large order of parts from Pelican today....hoping to get the following done this weekend:

Timing chain update, valve adjust, check cam timing, clutch (new Sachs Power Clutch Pelican Super Kit), and Pelican tune-up kit.

I'm also having an issue with the fuel filler neck that I got with car that doesn't seem to fit the replacement left front fender. See my post on this....maybe you have a suggestion: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/136723-sc-fuel-filler-neck-fender.html

Thanks much,

-Ed