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I should add, that I am unclear about how this cylinder was treated. What exactly was done to it?
BTW my alusils are 12k miles and counting, running great. |
Thanks for the return PM and posting the results here, Alan.
You guys did a great job of digging below the surface and enlightening the rest of us with your findings. |
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The cylinder was donated by another Pelican so I can't comment on the mileage, but it was a well used cylinder. I took the cylinder to my local 'engine rebuilder' who used the 'Sunnen honing method' on the cylinder. I believe this involves an oil/grit lubricant to expose the silicon on to surface again. The shop I used was an approved G.M. repair depot for Vega engines when they had Alusil issues, and he still does air cooled aircraft engines. He re-did my 2.7 cylinders for me a few years ago, the car ran really well when I finished. Unfortunately I sold it before I ever accumulated any significant mileage, so I do not know how long it would have lasted. Gee, where is Snowman? :rolleyes: |
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A post from the dead! I had many questions that caused me to read all 565 posts in this topic.
At this point I am getting ready to try a hybrid method following these posts to my 944 turbo block...... ........IN THE VEHICLE. I have some cylinder stain from coolant sitting on the piston (I know, I know: ha,ha- he has to deal with coolant) and some scoring on another cylinder. I was going to try a soft brillo-like pad to clean up the score mark a bit. Then I was going to use the home-hone AN-30 paste method to "polish" a new silicone surface. I am planning on using new gotze rings. The block has 145,000 on it and if I fail I am only back to the same spot (minus rings, rod bearings, and gaskets). I will post an update when I get there...but for now I am on a search for AN-30 compound! |
I ordered it directly from Sunnen. Good luck, let us know how it works.
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Hehe...look what I have!
Never before seen in captivity. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252896604.jpg Same here. I decided to formulate a "hybrid" technique to refresh my cylinders for my current rebuild. I'll be using Deves rings in mine. I'm going to get a standard 3 arm drill hone, tape over the stones with duct tape, wrap them in felt, wet them and the cylinder down with 20 weight non-detergent straight mineral oil, and try honing with the AN-30 paste. I have my bad block to do some trial runs on first just to see what it does. I already cleaned my cylinders with super clean and a scotchbrite. They are a nice bright grey color, but still mirror smooth. I'll post back with the results as well. |
As promised, here's the post from my project thread over on the 944 board.
Here's the hone. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253848242.jpg OK, honing was pretty interesting. Mostly R&D today. The paste straight out of the can is pretty thinck and needs some oil to dilute it down a little. I found the best way is to liberally smear oil on the cylinder and then smearing some AN-30 paste on top of that before it has too much of a chance to run down the cylinders. Work it into the oil on the cylinders and it thins nicely. Use enough so you get an even brown coating that almost hides the cylinder surface. Also, the new felt needs to be oil soaked first, then some paste worked into the felt. The cylinders were initially prepped with a scotchbrite and purple power scrubbing straight up and down with very light pressure to avoid scratching the surface, rinsed and dried. The first run, in cyl 4, the paste was a little too thick and I ran the lightest stone pressure I could for 80 sec. It seemed to clean the walls pretty good, but not much else. The second run, in cyl 3, I ran less paste with a little more oil and max stone pressure for 90 sec. Seemed to dull the finish somewhat, and felt slightly rougher than the untouched cylinders, but still on the ineffective side. I ran the 3rd run in cyl 2 with more paste, but thinned like I had it in the second run, max pressure, and 160 seconds. Not much different that the second run. lightly scrubbed, not honed. Notice how shiny it is on the bottom section below the rings. The upper part of the cylinder is also pretty reflective, but not quite as bright silver colored. There is no wear ridge I can feel, but it might measure out on a micrometer. It doesn't really feel any soother or rougher than the rest of the cylinder. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253845629.jpg 3rd run. There is a more even and dull grey finish. It feels slightly rougher than the unhoned cylinder, but is still pretty smooth. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253845892.jpg I wasn't too impressed with the results. They looked certainly better than nothing, but I was hoping for more. I decided to go at it with the scotchbrite on the last cylinder. I scrubbed nice and hard for about 2 minutes total, putting a fine crosshatch pattern in the cylinder. It was making grey soap suds, so it was definitely taking something off. Here's the cylinder after scotchbrite. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253846269.jpg Then honing. I prepped the cyl for honing as for run 3. I also realized I needed to have the hone running faster, ~230 rpms and ~80 strokes per minute, rather than 80 rpms and 230 strokes per minute...:rolleyes: (c'mon!). I honed for ~90 seconds. The cylinder looked much more like what I was after! The scotchbrite crosshatch marks were nearly gone but still noticable on close inspection, the cylinder was a dull grey that was finally not reflecting things clearly, and definitely felt somewhat rougher. Now we're getting somewhere! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253846592.jpg Compare to run 3. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253846653.jpg Another view. The 4th run pic is slightly out of focus on the cylinder area, but it still doesn't exaggerate the difference by much. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253846874.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253847001.jpg The plan now is to develop a 2 stage honing process, first with scotchbrite pads and purple power, and then with the AN-30 and felt as done on the 4th run. I'm just going to start back at cyl 4, and just have to figure out about how long is good to run the scotchbrite pads. The cylinders on the new block should break in the new rings pretty well now. :D |
Is the Sunnen compound etching?
I talked to a 944 guru and he said the alusil was ok to re-ring and "hone" as long as you used an etching compound to eat away at the aluminum, leaving the silicone crystals exposed. |
I don't know exacty, but "etching" sounds like a chemical removal of the aluminum, and lapping, as it is called in the 944 factory service maunal, is removing the aluminum abrasively. Either way, it does the same thing...remove the aluminum from the very surface exposing the silicone particles.
I believe the AN-30 is a mild enough abrasive that it wears away the aluminum without affecting the silicone particles. Sunnen actually makes honing stones that accomplish the same thing now. They have a flexible substrate and the correct abrasive that allows the abrasive to work around the silicone particles and remove only aluminum. The AN-30 and felt hone is apparently old school. I also think that's why it worked so much better when scoured with the scotchbrite pad first, since it seems to be abrasive enough to skim off the surface of the cylinder, exposing fresh material, which then laps with the AN-30 correctly. I'm sure you can do the same thing with the correct honing stone, but it would be alot easier to not take too much off and not tear up the surface using incorrect pressure, grit, type of stone, etc. with the scotchbrite. |
OK, X-post on the final development and implementation of the scotchbrite + AN-30 honing. I'll post back with results once the motor is running and has some miles on it.
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I did work on the scotchbrite honing today. Overall, I'm happy with the results. I did have a couple scratches in the cylinders deep enough to catch a fingernail. The scotchbrite hone obviously did not remove them, but they no longer catch a fingernail, so... I also determined it worked best when lubed with mineral oil instead of degreaser. I couldn't tell much of a difference, but the oil honed one looked a little cleaner and more consistent. It also worked best at minimum pressure set on the hone and run at ~120 rpms 80 strokes/min for about 45 seconds. It's also crucial not to extend out of the cylinder too far or the extra pressure of the stones concentrated at the edge will take more off than the middle. It definitely leaves a fine crosshatch surface. One guy on the 911 rebuild forum said he honed his cylinders for new rings with only the scotchbrite pads attatched to a glaze hone and his rings broke in just fine. I found the surface comes out a bit better when honed with the felt and the AN-30 after the scotchbrite. I also found that doing the AN-30 honing as described above twice seemed to smooth out the scotchbrite crosshatch marks a little better than just once. With all that in mind, I did manage to successfully hone all 4 of the cylinders on my good block with my developed method. The surface is a nice smooth matte finish that has kind of a micro-rough fell to it. There are still faint crosshatch marks, but that probably can't hurt and might help. The scotchbrite hone. I used 2 sewing pins for each one to hold the pads on, same as with the felt. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254090606.jpg Here's after 45 sec of honing. There's a little aluminum material in the oil but not much. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254090747.jpg Here's the scotchbrite finish. It's very fine and it made kind of a grey rough finish. It would probably work fine, but of course I've got to be all high tech about it. ;) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254090839.jpg AN-30 paste and oil ready for felt honing. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254090960.jpg Here's what I get after one AN-30 honing run. The crosshatch marks are still detectable, but not as "sharp" looking. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254091087.jpg Ok, enough screwing around! Let's get to the point. Here's the cylinders on the good block. they are actually in much better condition than my old one. Fewer scratches and virtually no wear ridge at the top. The old block had a very small one. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254091283.jpg I found out that cutting off the leading corner of the felt helps it not to fold under the pads while honing. Be sure the pads are pinned up very tightly around the stones. They will want to spin around the stones and will get all bunched up, or even put the pins onto the cylinder wall if they are not tight. There my be a better way to attach them, but this is what I had for now. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254091486.jpg The last cleaning before assembly. It is crucial to clean ALL the AN-30 out of every nook and cranny. There was a bunch that ran down all over the crankcase area. I pretty much did a full cleaning/flushing the oil galleries again just to be sure. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254091685.jpg All done and ready for pistons, crank, final assembly, etc. These were all done with 1 45 sec. scotchbrite run and 2 80 sec. AN-30 runs. I just have to set ring gaps and get the crank ready. Hopefully this will break in the rings, actually have 100% compression, and will last a long time again! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254091858.jpg |
I had mine done by a shop in the area that seems to know what they are doing. They looked pretty much like that. My guess is that with NEW rings and a proper break-in you will be fine.
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SWEET! :D I'm really looking forward to seeing how it runs. I've heard running it hard right away as soon as it warms up is the best way to break in rings, so that's what I'll do. Various rpms...hard up to 5000 or so, on and off throttle with high rpm coasting mixed in to help suck the oil up through the rings for lubrication and clearing out the metal from the rings wearing in.
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Time to bring back the dead....
Here is a PM I received from HondaDustR that I felt gives a very good summary of the process. This is what I will be doing on my BMW N62 block. Quote:
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Here's a video from the guy who literally "wrote the book" on the Sunnen honing process
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ek5qv8Nmg0 I'm sure if you called him up, he'd be glad to share some tips. Nice guy who really knows his craft. Sending him some cylinders would be quite easy (compared to shipping an engine block) and I bet he'd also mount them with a torque plate to simulate the installed condition of the cylinder before honing. |
Unfortunately the engine I'm working on doesn't make it possible to ship just the cylinders.. wish he was on the opposite coast for sure, as I am in NC.
I will give him a call though if I have any questions. I wish I had called him prior to ordering the Sunnen stuff, as he probably could have sold me a smaller quantity of the compound and his felt pads for a lower price and offered more information than them. |
Alright everyone--here are a few pictures from today. Luckily I had an old block to play with, so I came up with a few different times/speeds to try
----- First try of the day, about 30 seconds, relatively slow speed on drill. Ignore the crack at the bottom. That's why this is a test block afterall #1 http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5138.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5140.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5149.jpg #2--went a little longer on these and I think my pads got dirty as the scratches look deeper to me http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5161.jpg #3--this is where I went all out, higher RPM on the drill, and well over a minute for sure. It was the last one I did as well, and I noticed some silver'ish color on the pads that I think I really should have been keeping clean. http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5177.jpg And lastly, this is a view from underneath for what I thought were the best ones http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5188.jpg |
I have a feeling you schotchbrited dry. ? Make sure to use lots of oil on the cylinder. I haven't read my posts in a couple years.. these pictures are a good comparison for what you want. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/4921739-post572.html
These specs are what you want now that I've properly refreshed my memory. 45 sec, minimum hone tension, ~120 rpm for scotchbrite, followed by two AN30 runs, ~80 sec each, high hone tension, cleaning and applying fresh paste mix for each 80 sec run, same rpm, but search for my rebuild thread for the whole enchilada. I dont have the link handy atm. |
Looks way too rough and shiny.
From what I gather, alusil should not have any cross hatching. |
Thanks everyone--that is why I wanted to give it a try on the old block first and post some pictures here for feedback.
I did use oil, but I don't think I used enough in hindsight. I had it in a spray bottle and just sprayed a few squirts in each cylinder. It sounds like I need to really go heavy on the oil, light on the pressure setting, and make sure the pads are kept as clean as possible or replaced regularly. I used 30W oil, while I think you suggested 20W oil (detergentless). I don't think this is a big deal but thought it was worth mentioning just in case. On the real deal I will probably replace the scotchbrite pads every 1 or 2 cylinders to ensure they are clean. I only have a bore or two left to play on, but it sounds like I just need to take it easy on them and it'll work out I'll go back and do some more reading/picture viewing now that I've got a little experience. I do have to say that the ones that looked really rough in the pictures didn't look that bad in person, the light I was using to take pictures really brought out the scratches (not sure if that's good or bad, lol) |
For reference, here are the pictures from earlier in the thread. I DEFINITELY went too far with mine based on the outcome here. I also noticed you used a LOT more oil, so that is probably part of my problem. I'll give it another trial run sometime this week. Question for you guys--how big are the cylinders on yalls blocks? I was at the small end of what the hone I was using could even do, so it was squeezed almost all the way in, which was adding a little pressure in my opinion. Just curious, mine are 92mm. I think it was the thickness of the stones + scotch brite pads with the way I had them wrapped around that made it barely fit.
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and, final. Block ready for assembly.. |
Re Ring Alusils
Those look great. I did this to my 911 alusils last august. I didn't use the scotch brite but ended up with cylinder walls that looked just like yours. I have around 4 or so thousand in them now and it uses less than a quart every 2000 miles! So far, so good.
Chris |
Are you talking about pictures in the post right before yours or the ones a few posts back? The ones just posted are from someone else who had great results.
I posted some of my test runs a few posts back which appear to have been over done Just curious. How did you do yours without scotchbrite? |
Sorry, I was talking about the lowest pic. For what I did, I stole from my wife's craft kit a sheet of felt. I then tied patches of it onto my three stone hone with strips of the same felt. I then proceeded the same way oil and an-30. Once clean they looked semi dull with barely perceptible scratching.
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Great info, thanks
With that I will remember to especially take it easy with the scotchbrite pads. I may modify the hone slightly to reduce the pressure as well Quote:
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AN30 and "real" sunnen felt pads came in today. The pads when put back to back are nearly 3.5" thick, and the cylinders I'm working with are about 3.6", and they don't fit the regular 'ol 3 arm hones, so I either need to do some modifying or just go with the felt that everyone else has used.. we shall see.
I can def. cut down the posts that are on the back of the felt pads to make them a little smaller--I had originally thought about removing the felt from their current backing and epoxying them on to the pads of a 3 hone stone somehow. I'll have to think about it a little more. Another idea is to modify a set of honing stones that comes with a normal 3 arm hone by removing the stones from the metal backing. Then cover the metal in several layers of duct tape, then glue the felt pads to that (perhaps also making them thinner first so they were less likely to try to be knocked over while being spun around a cylinder..), then also put a zip tie around them pretty tight, tight enough that the zip tie is squeezing the felt such that the zip tie isn't touching the cylinder wall anywhere. Hmm sounds like a possible winner to me. Here are some pictures: http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...Phone012-1.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...Phone013-1.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...Phone015-1.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/.../iPhone018.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/.../iPhone019.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/.../iPhone024.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/.../iPhone025.jpg |
Felt
I love that hone! How do you even use that?
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Need something more like this...
http://images.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/Greenleesboring_2034_resized.jpg |
Here's a close up of the glue holding the felt on
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5276.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5277.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5278.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5279.jpg And some new tool organization stuff showed up today from Ernst. They are twist lock socket holders--they seem awesome so far. Going to order enough to do most of my sockets this way--this is just the odd ball stuff I didn't have a decent way to store http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5291.jpg Here's the AN30 paste--nasty looking stuff http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5292.jpg It's a pretty thick paste, seems to have a small bit of sparkly stuff in it http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5294.jpg |
Did you guys run anything special for break in oil??
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Regular oil is fine. No need to run something different than what you normally do.
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Oil
I ran some less expensive mineral oil and changed it in about a thousand. Not crap oil but not B. Penn or VR1 either.
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Thanks, need to do some more reading as I'm not that familiar with current mineral oils. Will find something though.. I've always read change it the first time pretty quick.. then another time at 500-1000 miles, then go to normal'ish interval
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Alrighty guys and gals, I had some time to play with the AN30 this afternoon. It looks like I need a drill with a little more range to it--mine seems to be either too fast or too slow. The only cylinder I got results like I THINK I'm looking for was the last one where I used the drill at a high speed for probably a minute.
Here are some pictures: I ended up finding some big sheets of felt at work that had a really strong adhesive on them. I just wrapped them around the honing stones and stickied them to themselves--these held up fine for everything I did today http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5352.jpg This is the first one I tried--it is def. different from what it looked like in the beginning, but I think this combo was too much scotchbrite last weekend + not enough AN30 time today http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5358.jpg Left has been through the felt + AN30 process, cylinder on right has not http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5362.jpg Another one after doing some "polishing" http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5377.jpg Unpolished cylinder (scotch brite only) http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5378.jpg Another unpolished http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5386.jpg Polished http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5387.jpg Now this is the one I went longer on + sped up the drill. I need someway of getting a speed higher than "low" on this drill, and lower than the speed used in this cylinder. I was afraid it was going to rip the felt off.. This is the one I thought was by far the best http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5388.jpg Another shot of it--looks pretty dull grey'ish, much more like what I am after (I think anyways) http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5398.jpg And parts going to the machine shop tomorrow. Oh the irony of a Honda hauling a BMW engine to the machine shop.. lol. Even funnier to me is that block couldn't have weighed more than 50-60lbs--I felt like the hulk putting a block in the trunk, haha http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5403.jpg Welp, that's it for today. |
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That last cylinder that you did looks really good. It has that nice smooth chalkboard looking surface without showing much from the scotchbrite. What oil are you lubricating the scotchbrite stage with? I feel like your scotchbrite is still cutting a little on the aggressive side. I would go to a good auto store or Wal Mart (yes, I've seen it at walmart with the motor oil) and pick up some straight 20 or 30 weight non detergent lubricating oil. I used an old can of straight 20 weight API SA/SB oil I found at work. It probably had some historical value, especially unopened, but oh well...
The AN-30 is really thick out of the can. I found it to work best diluted just a bit with oil. The best way to tell is to observe how it is smearing around the cylinder. If it looks like the felt is sort of hydroplaning over a thick layer...too thick. If it's running down the cylinder and dripping out...too thin. I did two runs of lapping each using fresh AN-30 on mine, as the particles kind of start losing their abrasiveness after about 2 min or so, and it yielded smoother results. It is fairly self limiting within reason. Scotchbrite honing you want to keep on as low a tension as the hone will go and don't do it too fast or too long...just enough to "clean up" the cylinder surface. You do want to see a nice cohesive even crosshatch pattern. The closer to that first pic of mine you posted above, the better. Thicker/more oil and less pad tension will help get rid of the "sharper" looking scratches. Make sure you're using standard green scotchbrite pads. Blue "no scratch" pads are useless, as they do exactly what they're sold to do...not scratch soft metals, and red pads are too coarse and aggressive. The bores on the 944 block are 100 mm. I would certainly run that last cylinder without concern based on the picture. Looks like it'll work out pretty well. |
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I think my problem on the scotch brite was I had the oil in a spray bottle and was just squiring a few squirts in the cylinder and a few on the hone when I was working on the scotch brite process. From your pictures it look like you all out soaked the cylinders down with it, which is what I'm going to do next time. I also think I had the hone set somewhere around 70% pressure (estimate obviously). I think a lot more oil + I have modified the hone slightly so it's a little looser by default + cleaning the pads thoroughly between cylinders will get me to where I need to be. I had pretty similar results on the AN30 in regards to the thickness--the first time I slathered it on thick without any oil and I realized I was basically just spinning felt around on top of the paste and it wasn't really doing anything. I think this is where a "real" honing machine would come into play as you could put more pressure on the pads so that they actually got some bite into the cylinders. Anyways--then I started adding oil and got some results but not much. I finally found that adding a thin layer of paste, then some oil, then more paste if you need it, worked better so that there was actually some sliding going on and not just a bunch of hydroplaning on top of the compoun (compound'planing? lol,) Thanks for the feedback. I will be back at it this weekend and hope to have some pictures of the results on the last few cylinders I have to play with. The machine shop has my block so it will be a week or two before I can do the real deal |
Made a holder thing for the real Sunnen felt pads today. It worked out to be the perfect size.. would barely squeeze in the cylinders, so when the AN30 was added it was a pretty tight fit
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5463.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5469.jpg The second from the end cylinder in this pic is the one I tried it on first before: http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5476.jpg I did not have a way of connecting the holder thing to a drill, so I was literally just spinning it around slowly by hand. After about a minute I decided to peek at the results.. I was quite surprised http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5485.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5487.jpg So yeah--next step I am going to drill/tap the top of the aluminum holder so that I can connect it to a flexible shaft off of an old 3 arm hone. I have to say, the results, given I was just barely turning the thing by hand, are as good as anything else I've been able to get and was probably faster. I guess the right tools do indeed help :) Block/heads should be done at machine shop by Wednesday. I am missing one main bearing though so it may be another week or two before I can really start putting it back together |
Today was the day!! I deglazed and then "conditioned" the real deal. After I got a process down it went pretty quick.. most of the time was doing the first cylinder and trying not to overdo it, so I kept stopping/cleaning everything to check progress then going again
I ended up going about a minute on the scotch brite step, although I had modified my hone to be a little looser and had it on minimum pressure, so it took a little longer to get some results. For the AN-30 step I did about 2 minutes total, split into two steps. I cleaned them off in between steps. Honestly I could have probably gone twice as long on both steps and gotten the same or better results, but I was afraid of going too far with the scotch brite especially so I called it quits after I had decent results. The key is very light pressure and making sure you have enough oil... Advice to anyone else who ever has to do this: It seemed that the less AN-30 I used, the better. At first I covered the whole cylinder down in it, then tried to mix in the oil. That basically ended up in just having the felt slide around on top of the paste, but didn't really do anything to the cylinders. In the end I was using just a bit of AN30 with at least an equal amount of oil if not more.. That seemed to be the best way to make sure the AN-30 and cylinder walls were really interacting the most Here is a cylinder before. Picture has been edited so it makes it look a little worse than it did in person. Not sure what the black stuff is, I couldn't really feel it with my fingernail but it was in all the cylinders to some degree. Wonder if it was from the cleaning process at the machine shop? http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5758.jpg And here is one after deglazing for about a minute. I used scotch brite pads zip-tied to my hone. The hone had felt pads sewn to it as well for later... The streak in the cylinder here is just dirt http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5749.jpg And here are a few after the AN-30 process. Of course ignore the oil that wasn't totally cleaned off..I am pretty happy with these http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5787.jpg http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5788.jpg And finished product getting washed (missed a spot on the back cylinder!) http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_5794.jpg |
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