Head Stud Broken close to the case
 

Posting this for a friend, allthough there will be plenty of pictures of my SC motor soon enough.. His motor is a 3.2..

"I have broken this head stud twice now trying to get it out. I have tried heat and PB blaster, using a Snap-on head stud remover. The snap-on unit slides al the way down the head stud and grasps the shaft. The others came out fine. Now I'm down to the absolute minimum. Should I keep trying or admit defeat and send it to a machinist. If I do send it to a machinist I want to leave him enough stud to work with. Help please!"

http://www.itvl.com/eric/msg/ted1.jpg
http://www.itvl.com/eric/msg/ted2.jpg

This has been discussed here many times. The pros will use a oxy-ace torch in the inner area of the spiggot. You are melting the Loctite that surrounds stud thread. It takes the heat of an oxy-ace torch, because the case is a huge heat sink. Have a helper keep a constant twisting pressure on the stud, while you play the torch on the case. You'll feel the stud move when the Loctite melts. It will take a lot more heat than you think, so don't be too hasty.

See Project 97 (I think) in "101 Projects for Your Porsche 911"

-Wayne

Eric . . . Ted needs to get a die and put treads on the stud as far down as he can and then use the collet type stud remover. The snap on version is prone to breaking studs if you can't support the stud to counter the torque. Doug has my die set. I had to do the same thing with one of his studs that broke.

Eric - is this picture from today after you guys picked up the collet stud remover or was this prior to today ????

I can't tell from the pic how much stud is exposed but it does look very similar to my worst one. I would definately try a combo of heat and tapping some threads onto it. If that doesn't work then I'd try heat and a large set of vise grips. If neither of those work then Ted just might have to be sending the case away :(

Good luck and hopefully it comes out for him.

a medium set of visegrips and an oxy/acetylene torch will get that out. if you thread it, it will be weaker, and may shear off even lower. i would be happy to see one broken that far away from the case.

LOL :D

We took the Picture on Saturday after we left your place. I think it may be a little shorter than your worst one, but we were putting a ton of force on it with the Snap On stud tool and it would not come out, I guess more heat? :D :eek:

oxy/acetylene heat. sometimes it takes more than you would think. keep tension on the stud as you heat the case, and when you feel the stud give a little, keep the heat on until it loosens more. use a flame that you can hear.

Worse comes to worse, you can send the case to Rimco in So. Cal. Next door to them there is a shop that all they do is extract broken studs and bolts. Another engine builder who frequents this site informed me of this little treasure. I currently have a Porsche 356 case being worked on out there.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

With my mapp gas torch it took an average of 10 minutes a stud. I'd go for more heat. Keep it moving in that small area.

I takes more heat than you would believe.

I removed one like that a few years ago. I sharpend the end and placed a nut on it. Then my welder expert Tig welded the nut to the stud. He then let it cool.

Next he heated the case with an oxy-acetylene torch using the 'rosebud' tip. He had me keep tension on the nut with a set of vice grips. It took a lot of heat. we moved it around the stud on the case. Finally it moved.

The owner of the case was present. He heard my welder expert say to me that the thing would start to move when the case got "a little mushy". The owner of the motor still talks about it.

Good luck,
David Duffield