Rebuild Complete: Back In The Car !
 

After 110+ hours on this project the engine is finally back together where she belongs ... IN THE CAR!

Many thanks go out to the NoVa crew who lent many hands over the past 2 months and the members of this board who provided the answers and resources when needed.

Most importantly, however, a special thanks goes out to Wayne (not only for great prices on parts) but mainly for authoring such a fantastic book ... with-out that bible there is no way I could have even contemplated tackling such a project let alone carrying it through to completion.

Here are two pics from today showing the completed effort:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1075605427.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1075605454.jpg

All that awaits me tomorrow is re-attaching all necessary lines/hoses, filling with fluids and then getting the nerve to turn the key :D

Congratulations! Do have a charger on the battery? Make yourself a checklist to ensure you do everything needed before starting. It's a tremendous feeling when it roars to life and you do that 20 minute run in! Have fun! Jim

Awesome
 

Man that was FAST!!!

I was itching to make it to one of your gatherings but have been booked with work.

Looks great, also looks like you need a garage heater:D.

Good luck on the fire up and break in.

Gordo

Congratulations! I'm done with my rebuild, but redoing the rear suspension so I am probably a month away from turning the key!

How did this turn out?

-Wayne

Thanks guys.

Wayne - happy to report that after building oil pressure and then installing the fuel pump relay she fired right up :) She purrs like a kitten again and there were no oil leaks after 20 minutes of running. Unfortunately we noticed that the oil return tube seal b/t the #5 and #6 heads had somehow split on the top side but it wasn't leaking. I'm going to have to pull that one out and redo it but otherwise everything looks (and sounds) great.

Jim - we left the charger on the battery while re-connecting everything on the top of the motor. Definately a wise move given how many times you turn that sucker over until pressure builds.

Don - scary part is that we were using one of the 30k BTU propane heaters. Look forward to seeing you on the road soon.

Kurt - Congrats on your recent rebuild as well. I probably should have also tackled the rear suspenion like you are doing but I honestly was running out of gas after so much time in the garage. Good luck and trust me, there is nothing like the feeling of pure unknown when you turn that key for the first time :)

Kool! I'm scared just reading about your happy experience...I just need to attach the axles and bolt up the engine add oil and go! (hopefully). How long do you have to crank before she builds pressure? Can you just disconnect the coil wire to build pressure? Then you let it idle for 20 minutes or rev (below 4000) or what? I can't jump in the car right away and drive beause there's 92 inches of snow on the ground.

Way to go!

Only one question? If it ain't leaking why are you fixing it???????

Agreed - don't mess with it until it starts to leak...

-Wayne

Time Bomb! Tic Tic Tic.

I had same issue. One morning I found about 2 gallons of oil on my shop floor. Unfortunately I didn't know it was split before the mess.
I'd do it on one of your early planned oil changes or you might have an unplanned one!

Jim, on CIS cars you need to disable the fuel pump or else your cylinders will fill with fuel. No need to disable the ignition system if there is no fuel. Also, break-in procedures vary according to what was done. In my case, I reused cylinders you're supposedly not supposed to reuse. Bruce Anderson himself advised me NOT to let it idle. Start it, then immediately give it a torque workout, both acceleration and deceleration. Particularly acceleration. With brand new P&Cs, this procedure is different.

Doug, CONGRATULATIONS. It is my position that rebuilding your own Porsche engine enlarges your Johnson. I assume you experienced the same phenomenon. And a big part of that is the startup experience. E-ticket rides at Disneyland are no more exciting than Mr. Rogers for those of us who have spent thousands, and many many hours (in the doghouse with the wifey), and then faced that moment of truth...turning the key. If you haven't been there, you don't know. Again, congratulations.

Indeed, you should never let it idle - rev it up to 2000 RPM immediately...

-Wayne

Damn, i'm jealous, if i hadn't broken one damn compression rings yesterday while putting them on the pistons i might only be one week away from the same satisfaction. Anyone have a nice sound clip i can listen to so that i can regain motivation. Nice work with the motor, and good luck with it. What color is your car, that's very nice?

LOL Superman, but I agree! I've been in a lot of pressure situations before in my life but not one comes close to the feeling of turning that key for the first time ... and then waiting to do it again to hear if she runs. Best part of it all was that last Sunday was my B-day so it truely was a gift that I'll remember forever.

As far as the oil return seal goes, I'm going to wait and do it with the first oil change right around 500 miles. I plan on doing a lot of track time (DE's) this year and I don't want to risk that thing going on me while I'm at the track.

The color code of the car is J4J4 which is listed as Light Blue Metallic. It is the 2nd paint job (I'm the 4th owner) on a 23 year old car and it has held up remarkably well.

BTW, if anyone is reading this thread who is considering taking on this project themselves all I can say is GO FOR IT - you can do it!

On second thought, why fix an oil leak on a Porsche in the first place. All Porsches leak oil, thats how they mark their territory.

Please explain the reason why you would take it up to 2000 rpm immediately.
I used to do that to break in cams on V8s, but I'm not sure I understand why you would want to do it with a Porsche engine. I'm not doubting anyone, I'm just curious. TIA

Same reason if new cams and rockers are used.

The main reason is to insure adequate oiling of all parts. Its possible that its not necessary on all engines, but no one knows for sure which ones. So the safe bet is to just do it. On ititial fire up some parts of the engine are very slow to start oiling, 2000 RPM insures max oil pressure as well as max splashing of oil everywhere. It also helps rings seat quicker. Note that a steady RPM is not recommended, you should continuously vary the rpm during this period, ie an ocasional goose to 3000 RPM or so, the reason, some undesireable things can happen at a very constant RPM, eg periodic wear patterns, oil not hitting a certain spot...which is the same reasons that you do this for a V8, with the cam being most susecptible to lack of oil.

HOpe that helps.