New? 2.4 Frozen up...Help!!
 

Bought a 72T 2.4 engine that hasn't run for a couple of years. Before it was put away, supposedly it had a complete overhaul with only 10K on it since. Supposedly (get the idea here?) it also turned over freely when it was shipped to me. Now however, it is frozen up solid as can be. Won't turn forwards or backwards. I've stripped it down to the long block, have had penetrating and Marvel oil soaking in the cylinders for the last week, still nothing. It does appear all is clean, pretty, and most appears new on the insides, have removed valve covers, the train looks good, and valve guides, valves, etc. all also look new. The little bit of oil that remained in the case looked OK, nothing else at the long block stage looks out of the ordinary. Any ideas I haven't thought of in unsticking it? Could it be something besides rings stuck to the cylinders (hidden out of sight from my eyes at the long block stage)? Thanks in advance for any ideas... :(

It might be a case of cast iron rings rusted to the cast iron cylinders. Is the penetrating oil sitting in the cylinders with the engine rotated 90º?

Since it's down to the long block stage, it shouldn't take much more to remove the top end. Maybe add a little heat to a cylinder, add a little vibratory action with a small hammer (careful) and see if you can wiggle it to accept more penetrant.

Let us know how it goes,
Sherwood

Maybe an impact wrench clockwise on the pulley? Probably a better method for an engine that is a core (less risk) but the little jolts might be enough to loosen things...

Also, you might want to try leaving it outside in the sun to warm up. I have heard this is a good way to get stuck oil pumps free - it might work for the entire motor. At least I would try it...

-Wayne

I think I posted on this same question somewhere else. Anyway, try blowing compressed air into the spark plug holes to move the penetrating oil all around in the cylinders. It all goes the the bottom when you just squirt it in there. The rust will be all around.

Oh, and there was the part about the two bolts in the flywheel and the long crow bar. Did you see that? If not, PM me. I unstuck one 2 weeks ago doing these 2 things.

Be carefull. Engines sieze for a reason. You can seriously damage thngs with crowbars, ect.

I had a case with an engine that turned over ok at first, then froze. Turned out to be the curse of engine re builders, glass beads, used to bead blast the case. These little buggers build up on the crank and rod bearings, until the point the engine siezes. It MAY be salaveageable if it is. But expect to regrind the crank, change all bearings, remove all plugs in crank, oil galleys for a complete very complete cleaning.

Are the cam boxes intact? If not, could the chains be caught?

Got it torn down yet??

I would check to see if the wrong flywheel bolts were used being too long. These will bottom into the case casting, locking up the assy...

Chris