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Piston Squirters!
I cant seem to get any cleaning fluid to flow through the suirters on either case side. Also I've just discovered that they are spring loaded... why?
Any suggestions appreciated... Wayne I've tried to clean them how you suggest in the book, but no luck. Thanks |
John,
I had the same issues. You've really got to have compressed air. I'm assuming you have this. You need to get one of those fittings for your compressed air device that has a conical rubber nipple on the end. I got one at the local h'ware store for ten bucks. Attach it and crank your air up to about 60. To do the one side all you need to do is pop in some brake cleaner and then push the nipple onto the oil passage for the bearing. Press down hard and then hit the air. It should develop a quick burst of conical spray. You may have to let them soak overnight (mine was soaked for about a week becuas eI was out of town). The other side of the case is trickier. You need to plug up the oil passage in the through bolt holes. I could not get a fuel tube to fit so to do this I took another air tool, a conical chisel, perfectly round with a sharp point. I wrapped a rubber glove over the cone part and inserted it into the bottom of the through bolt hole. This provided a nice tight seal. Then hit it with the brake cleaner and air from the top. You can also try liquid wrench for the more stubborn ones. Hope this helps. Tristan |
I don't have Waynes book in front of me (and this should be in there) but I'll mention it just in case. The squirters require a fair amount of pressure to open (30 or 40 psi?) so you'll need to use an air compressor.
-Chris |
Some can be more stuck than others - the compressed air is a good next step...
-Wayne |
Squirters
I have a '74 911S Targa, and I bought it with 3 bad cylinders. Two were low on compression, and one had NO compression. Upon teardown, the #3 cylinder had a broken piston and the rings had broken and made their way into the engine [got most all of the pieces out]. The #1 and #2 cylinders also had slightly broken pistons, where a piece of aluminum between the two compression rings broke [about 2 inches long].
Anyway... I bought replacement parts and am ready to put it back together, but I think that the oil squirters below the pistons must be bad. Why else would one whole side go bad, but the other stay perfectly fine [150 psi cold for the #4,5,6 cylinders]. How do I go about cleaning these oil jets? Does one oil pump supply the oil to both sides of the engine and hence their respective oil jet squirters? Any help someone could give would be very appreciated! On a seperate note, this car has 83k original miles, has recent paint [emareld green] and almost zero rust [only a little above the tranny, just where the paint baked off, but no rot] It did run with the bad cylinders, and other than those pistons is mechanically sound. It has Fuchs alloys, good tires, and a straight body. What would someone ball park the value at this car at, so I could know if I got ripped off. Thanks in advance. |
Thanks everyone! I used the compressor and had success with all but one that was completely stuck. I drilled it out and will replace it with a new one (they're pretty cheap). Any one had to do this?
Thanks |
John,
I would have kept trying with the solvents. Good luck with it. Tristan |
compressed air
Where do you put the "nozzle" described above apply the compressed air to the oil squirters system? I'm trying to remedy my left side of the block, and I think that these squirters malfunctioned and led to piston failure on that side. Do I have to crack the case, or can I fix this with the heads/jugs removed? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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The nozzle is applied from the inside of the case in two ways depending on the case half you are working with.
1. Directly through the oil supply bore to the main bearing journals. 2. Through the case through bolt holes but you must block off the internal passage in the through bolt hole as described above. This is the only method I know unless someone else knows another. Wayne? Good luck with it. Tristan BTW. With all your carnage I can't see why you wouldn't tear it all apart and clean it. |
I just got my case back from the machine shop this week and was going to start the re-assembly this weekend. But today, I've been trying to "test" my piston squirters and have had no luck. I can't get any thing out of any of the six squirters.
I've tried everything from parts washer, brake cleaner, penetrating oil, and 60-80psi of air. And have gotten nothing out of the squirters. I've followed the procedure as advised in the Porsche Workshop manual, and have blocked off the through bolt holes using 1/4 fuel line. Any more suggestions. What is on the backside of the piston squirter? Is there a valve? A spring? Anything? Just trying to figure out what causes it to open, and whether or not it should be open passageway all of the time, or just under certain pressure. Any advice? Brian 1983 930 |
I'll be testing squirters this AM. I'll take pictures of how to do it for you.
-Chris |
Thanks Chris.
Brian |
If they have not opened up at 60 PSI they definantly need to be replaced.
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I use normal pressure from my air compressor (~90psi) but the pistons squirters should open at less than that.
Squirt something like light oil or WD-40 in the oil feed hole so you can "see" the air coming out of the piston squirter. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1085934776.jpg On the left side of the case, use a rubber tipper air nozzle to squirt into this hole: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1085934910.jpg The right side of the case is a little trickier. The right side of the case has "X" and "K" shaped oil passages. I've marked the path of the oil passages with a marker to you can see what you are up against: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1085934994.jpg You need to plug the air passages where the holes meet internally i.e. at the intersection of the lines forming the "X" and squirt air with a rubber tipped air nozzle into the bearing oil feed hole: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1085935672.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1085935351.jpg I made my plug using a piece of polyethethene rod and wrapped the sealing area with some teflon tape to bring it up to 11.8mm. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1085935413.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1085935428.jpg A note on safety: If you plug a hole with your finger while the "plug rod" is in place you create an air gun that will shoot that rod across the room. There is no need to plug any hole with your fingers. Also if you are using compressed air, wear safety glasses. Hope this helps. -Chris |
Thanks Chris:
Those are the exact steps I followed yesterday. However the only difference was that I didn't have an air nozzle that could seal against the holes well enough. Bought a new air nozzle today, and had them all tested and working fine within 15 minutes. IT PAYS TO HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS! Brian |
Great response Chris.
Cheers |
Quote:
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Quote:
My pain for the week was the cat I'm baby sitting slicing my hands open (that wasn't painful) a little while before I spilled gas all over my hands trying to fix a carburator. No chance of infection now! :D -Chris |
Just want to say thanks again to Chris for the post above...I'm doing my first build and this was a great help.
thanks Chris |
Just thought id stick my ten penneth in here for thouse who dont have a compressor to clean out my squirters I just used a ordinary plastic syringe, the left side of the case was easy I just stuck the nosle of the syringe straight into the hole that leads to the piston squrter in the top of the through bolt holes.
The right side was a bit more tricky and required me to blok off the through bolt hole with 1/4 inch fuel hose as others recommended then I stuck the syringe nozzel into the crank bearing oil supply hole to squirt solvent through the squirters. This worked for me but addmittedly it may not be so good if you squirters are relly blocked! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126467038.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126467112.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126467157.jpg |
Just checked mine with this procedure and it was simple! Thanks!
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Could anyone post a pic of a new squirter ? There seems to be a kind of spring/valve mechanism behind.
By the way thanks for your tips. I fought with my squirters a few hours before reading this post. Some open up without pressure others don't. |
Don't fool around...buy Steven Stomski's piston squirter cleaner tool. It will save you hours.
http://www.stomskiracing.com/products.html It's not listed on the above URL but call him and ask for it. Norm |
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Hello, Phillipe.
J'aime vos pissettes d'huile nettoye. Bon chance David |
I just ran into a problem on a 3.0 case. On previous cases I had them dipped and cleaned and in those cases was able to use the method above with a bit of carb cleaner to get them all spraying nicely. I used a different shop this time and had a hell of a time getting the #5 and #6 squirter to flow. After an entire bottle of cleaner and a bottle of the locktite freeze lube the #6 started behaving. # 5 just wouldnt clear. I was at my wits' end and decided to fish around inside the squirted from the case side with some safety wire. I bent it into a little hook then fed it down from the bearing side. After a little fiddling around down there, the next squirt of cleaner came right through.
I squirted a lot of cleaner and lube through there after and never found any debris. I am assuming the squirters just 'froze' too much for the carb cleaner and penetrants to clear up but was loose enough for the safety wire to jiggle it free. I know you aren't supposed to stick wire down tehre but since the next step was to remove the squirter I gave it a shot and it worked... |
I have for years used safety wire with a bent hook on the end put in a battery operated drill to loosen stubborn squirters with no ill effects. I use the lowest speed on the drill and use carb cleaner while spinning the safety wire very slowly and I have yet to damage a squirter.
aws |
SmileWavy
here is how i did it.. same but different. i took some rubber hose, sprayed it with WD-40 and slid in a nice round screwdriver beside it. then added some brake cleaner to the main bearing oiler and then followed with compressed air. once i figured out what i was doing, the others went very fast. [Pics] http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694555.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694590.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694612.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694632.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694654.jpg |
This thread inspired me to make a tool for this task, as I could not find a suitably sized chunk of rubber hose to seal the passage on the 3.6. Seems I could back when I did my 3.2 - maybe the bores are different, maybe I have different hose leftovers on hand.
Some 6mm allthread, a few threaded bits of aluminum, and a bit of 1/4" ID rubber fuel line, did the trick beautifully. I used the knurled aluminum bits because I can, but the concept works just as well with some M6 nuts & washers. I'd use a longer chunk of allthread, hold it with vise grips on the outboard side, and use a deep socket on the inboard side. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313095.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313095.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313095.JPG For the other side, the old standby of vinyl tubing and an inflator sort of worked, but it was a pain in the neck to get it to seat. The 10 degree cone worked well. I drilled the back end .219 and pressed it onto a 1/8NPT x 1/8" nipple so it would screw onto the blow gun. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313468.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313468.JPG |
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