While I'm at it - tranny?
 

Pulled the engine for a top end. Should I do anything to the '82 915 besides a clutch and flywheel?

It gets expensive real quick...
-Chris

What does?

Rebuilding the transmission. The last few years transmission parts prices have doubled or tripled.
-Chris

Ummm, having just gone through this myself here some things to consider :

Pressure plate
Throw-Out bearing
Guide tube
Release fork
Helper spring
Clutch cable

BTW, I had my flywheel resurfaced by a local shop for something like $50 so depending on the condition of yours you might want to consider that.

the trans parts should be around $900 if you DIY. that wouldn't include clutch related stuff.

Doing the clutch disk, pp, t/o bearing, flywheel and cable. Why the fork and tube? Are there any seals that are good to do?

Guide tube is now $125, turn it over if it's not too bad. Will yours shift into 1st when you are moving?

Yup. No problem shifting but, then again, I was trained to shift into 2nd before going into 1st to slow down the syncros.

FYI the trans works fine. I am a big fan of preventive maintenance and wanted to know what fails regularly that would be good to replace.

If you aren't going to open the transmission I'd:
- check the seals for leaks
- clean and relube the clutch fork shaft
- probably replace the funny seal(s) on the above shaft, they get crumbly
- check the guide tube for scoring (clean and relube w/moly grease)
-Chris

markwemple, sorry for the newbie question but when you say "I was trained to shift into 2nd before going into 1st to slow down the syncros" how do you actually do that? If you are already in 2nd do you come out of 2nd to neutral than back into 2nd then go for 1st?

If I'm in second I shift into first with the short delay that all 911 drivers are supposed to use, the neutral position wait (the reason we all shift slowly;)). I never do it with high revs though as I only use 1st at a light or driveway or such.

I'd want to put in a Quaife, but I'm sorry I don't have an extra one of those for you.

Rob

Me too but the budget doesn't come close to having $ for that:(

Resurface Flywheel!
Replace clutch,PP and TO bearing, pilot bearing, FWheel Bolts.
Drain fluid
Get all seals and replace them-including guide tube and shift rod seal in front.
Clean everything. (just as hard to do as a case cleaning)
There's some kind of shifter fork acess plate held on with 4 nuts. On it is some kind of fork held on with 10mm nuts and lock washers. The lockwashers were broken and the studs that held the fork were stripped and the fork was loose. I replaced the worn parts and gasket. A good catch.
Replace the back cover gasket if leaking. I used Drei Bond and the gasket.
Replace all CV joint fasteners with exact like kind. Get some Schnorr washers for all the fasteners and use them.
Replace CV boots after you clean and repack the CV joints.
Use new CV joint gaskets.
Get a clutch cable boot if you need one.
Fill it with Swepco.

That's what I did so I wouldn't have to bother with it for a while (hopefully +5 years).

Hope it helps.

Lee78SC

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1080744892.jpg

The clutch cable boot, are you referring to the one on the body or the cable? If the one on the cable is replacable please let me know as there are signs of wear but the cable is fine as far as I can tell. Thanks.

It's the one on the cable end that helps keep grit out. If the one in the body is shot (mine was at one time) replace it. It helped keep engine fumes out of the center tunnel, and dirt. If I remember right the center tunnel is some sort of feed fro the AC evaporator. It got rid of the gear oil smell before I rebuilt the drivetrain.

I did not have to replace the clutch cable. I replaced the boot because the original was rotten. Use some silicone lube to help slip it over the end hardware.

I looked on pelican but couldn't find it. Any suggestions on where to purchase it?

311-713-269A $6.00 Via Pelican. It was under Cables.