Crank Wouldn't Turn
 

Well, I finally got started on my rebuild (stock 2.2) after many months or procrastination. Got the crank assembled and she looked good. Got the case all cleaned up (for a mag case that is), put the carrera oil pump in, crank, and used Locktite 574 with the green 0-rings on the through bolts. Went together well, even had the wife helping. Got the little orange ooze at the seam and she looked good. Tried to move the crank to see how it felt and it wouln't budge, not at all. I'm pissed, my forehead starts to sweat, I swear a bunch, stop to think through it and can only figure something is wrong with the bearings. I look at the box they came out of and it says 0.25, not std. I swear some more. I ordered a std set of rod and main bearings from our friends at MM. Rods are fine. Time to call EBS.

PS: the green o-rings work good. I didn't use the black RTV, just oil. When I took case back apart I noticed the rings on the side bolt head sealed real nice. The ring on the nut side that have to sit on the bolt thread get kinda chewed up.

.25 means that they are .25mm thicker than normal yes? Then there's you answer.

Just one more reason not to shop at MM! Sorry that you have to split the case again, but why would anyone knowing of MM's reputation buy anything from them?????

Another reason to do a "dry assembly" first with Plasti-gage to check clearances. Also helps one determine if there are any missing parts. Jim

how did the case halves even go together if the bearings were oversize? you didn't notice anything wierd, where you had to force it together?

Thanks for the replies. I'm not really blaming anyone but myself for not noticing the wrong bearings. No noticable wierd thing as I buttoned it up. Guess .25mm in not enough to prevent closing, just tightens the crank in there though. Anybody need a set for a 2.2-2.7 in .25mm over?? Just a little dirty looking from assembly lube :)

On the o-rings - since you have to do it a second time -
I have tried a few things by now (ok 3 times, 3 different techniques) and got the best results with silicon lube on the o-rings. No chewed up rings. Plus, the sil wil retain positioning and lubricity for years, allowing the o-rings to continue functioning properly. The motor oil will eventually go away. You can also have a buddy use a pair of needle-nose vicegrips hold the nut-side washer while you torque the nut. Helps prevent tearing of the o-ring, but it's a little "over the top".

After cranking on those bearings with improper clearance, I'm not sure I'd sell or reuse them. Let the pros chime in but I'd *****can them if it was me. A shame, as those bearings are quite pricey.

Re: Crank Wouldn't Turn
 

Geez, doesn't anyone order from Pelican any more?

-Wayne

Hello All.

I'd like to echo what Wayne has just said.

Not only is this the best Tech site in the Known Universe..
Not only has Wayne written the Best tech Book Ever on the 911..

But, the prices are excellent.. just try quoting if you find lower anywhere else..
Or if they do not list a part, ask..

And the service is the Best..

Enlightened self-interest, guys...

Kind regards
David

David
Wayne

Hey I agree. Wayne, I bought most of my hardware from you, several orders and had the machine work done by EBS. I only purchased the bearing set (main and rod) from MM on Ebay because it was the best price I'd seen. Yes, I got the book too :)

Well, got some STD bearings, and buttoned it up on Sunday and it's a smooth as butter now. Short block complete and cleaning the pistons.