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Break-in Oil
Allot of what I've read recommends using a straight 30 weight non-detergent oil for breaking in a new/rebuilt engine. Who even makes that anymore, were do you get it?? What have others used?
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NAPA
TRY NAPA
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Castrol makes a straight weight oil that we use both during break in and normal operation beyond break in. It comes in 30, 40, 50, etc weights. I have gotten it from NAPA
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Kendall
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I'm using Coastal 10W40, cause it's cheap and it is not staying in the engine long...Comes in 4 qt containers. I bought a case of 6 gallons for the inital breakin. Once that is over, I'm switching to synthetic.
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Quote:
-Wayne |
Coastal/Castrol whatever it takes
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Quote:
:) -Wayne |
And what about castor oil? ;)
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Actually, I decided to go green and used Olive Oil. Extra Vigin for my blond!
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Can you use 20-50 (my regular weight oil) after a top end rebuild? If not, what is the reason?
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I use Coastal 10W-30. Edit: Coastal 10W-30 is non-detergent.
-Chris |
My engine rebuilder recomended a slightly thinner oil for break-in of the rings, therefore 10W30 for break-in, then 15W40 later.
The thicker oil will probably work fine, but you want the rings to seat as quickly as possible, therefore the thinner oil is preferred. I previously thought the straight 30 would be better, but at operating temps it is thicker than 10W30, so I have revised my opinion. |
we are talking the 1st 20 min right??
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My alusil 'expert' says for full ring break-in time, several hundred miles. I'm doing it now, oil pressure is not a problem.
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I do 1K miles on organic oil (any name brand). After that, synthetic 15W50. Synthetics are slick enough to prevent things from wearing in properly.
JP |
I agree. Unless it is factory recomended, do not try to break it in with synthetic. The rings might glaze rather than seat in the cylinders..
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