Selecting tools?
 

Long time lurker, signed up today, first post.

I am looking at tools for reassembly. Any suggestions on what I should get for:

Dial Indicator
Vernier Caliper
Micrometer (crank & cam journals)

I plan on getting metrics. What do I need for scope of measurement and accuracy?

There's a TON of tools out there. I usually get Snap-On or Craftsman tools - I like the quality and I can return them easily if I have problems.

Bob

Any name brand will work just fine. But you will need the "z" block for the dial indicator although with some ingenuity you can get by without it. I would just buy the Pelican dial indicator and z block.

Yep. Buy good tools, whatever tools you buy.
I like to look through the Harbor Frieght (Fright)-type stores, but seldom buy their junk.

How wide are the cam and crank journals? I have a 2.0, but someday I might decide to go larger.

I only want to buy one quality micrometer and take care of it... so I don't want one that's too small.

P.S. Pelican lists their flavor of metric dial indicator as NLA.

Both the rod (big end) and main journals of the crank measure a little over 2".
The pistons are between 3 and 4 inches in diameter.

So you'll need a "2 to 3 inch" micrometer to measure the crank.

If you want to measure the pistons and cylinders. You'll need a and a 3-4" micrometer and a bore gauge. I know Pelican sells the bore guage. The bore guage will also work for measuring the case.

Brown and Sharp has a "Value Line" that is reasonably priced. A 3-4" micrometer is only $90 for example. I get my measuring tools from MSC but McMaster-Carr and Enco are also good sources.

That said, the screw technology used in micrometers is not rocket science. You might find a made in China micrometer worked just fine.

After a bad crank experience I decided to that "Trust No One, Measure Everything Yourself" was the best motto.

-Chris

I have both Mitutoyo and cheep Chinese digital calipers and micrometers, and they both have their place. I keep the Chinese stuff in the garage, since I don't have to worry about breaking them, and they are good enough for 90% of the measurements I need to make. I keep the Mitutoyos in a padded case in a locked cabinet, because they cost more than my first Porsche. For the novice like me who builds an engine once every few years, it does not make much sense to buy high-end micrometers. I do suggest buying all the special Porsche tools listed in the book. It's worth the cost, and the will never loose their value. I wish I could find a source for those Russian metric dial indicators. I couldn’t do without mine, and they were cheap as dirt when they were available. I really like the Chinese knock-off digital calipers. They are amazingly close to the real thing, and 1/10th the cost.

Good luck,

JP

Chris, thanks for the detailed measurements!

JP, I know exactly what you're talking about. My click-type torque wrenches rest in their cases on the workbench. The two Snap-On precision digital torque wrenches stay in their cases locked up in a cabinet. They only come out to QC a critical torque value.

-Bob

We've got 4,000 good quality tools in our tools section. Do a search for what you're looking for, or click on the link below to browse:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/Tools/DWKS-tools.htm

-Wayne

When will I learn? Pelican has everything! Here's a very inexpensive set that covers the range of measurements you'll need for a 911 engine: Pelican 4pc micrometer set 0-4" range by Fowler
-Chris

Fowler's a pretty good name too...

In fact, I don't have a set that good, I think I'll order one! :)

-Wayne

I work in a machine shop that has a QC program that requires yearly measuring device calibration. It's surprising how accurate the cheap dial indicators and micrometers are.

Get a micrometer standard!
 

I only measure up 2 maybe 3 engines a year and I didn't really think I needed a micrometer standard to check my micrometers. "I'll get some someday" I thought.
Today I checked my 2-3" micrometer with my machinist's mic. standard. Aaargh. My mic. is .0005" off! Thinking back, I bet it was that far off from day one.

I know that .0005" doesn't sound like much but that can easily be the difference between a rod or cylinder being in spec or not and that translates into a lot of money.

I was dropping off some low mileage rods at my machinist to have them rebuilt when I checked my mic. Now that I know my mic. is reading .0005" high I don't think I'll need to have these rods rebuilt after all. That's a savings of couple of hundred right there.

-Chris

EDIT: I got my own standard this week and checked my 2" mic. - it's only .0001 high according to it.