I'd certainly go with lighter and stronger rods if I could. Reducing the reciprocating weight (conn. rods, pistons and pistons pins), reduces forces on all parts including the crank and associated bearings for increased service life and extended high-rpm operation. But it's expensive. If it's mainly a street engine, it's nice to have although not necessary. There are many things we hang on our cars that aren't necessary. It's nice to have the budget too.

Sherwood

We've used Pauter rods for the past 15 yrs or so.

These are used in everything from 9500 RPM 2.0's to 3.8's w/13.5:1 operating up to 8500 RPM and 750+ HP Turbo motors (8400 RPM).

Thus far, (knock on MDF), I've not seen one of these rods fail. They are every bit as good or better than Carrillo's and less expensive to boot.

For my money (and my customer's), I would not use anything else except for the factory titanium rods used in the GT-3's.

As long as engine RPM is kept below 7000, factory rods (properly prepared and used with ARP bolts) are an excellent choice. Large displacement (3.0 litres and over) and long stroke motors are more critical applications than others.

I will say that the consequences of rod failures are not inexpensive and this is no place to skimp and save $$$. Most "rod failures" are caused by either contamination or lack of lubrication at the rod journals and one should ensure that the lower end is properly prepared and the correct oil pump is used for the application at hand.

Thanks for all the responses. I'm going with the Pauter rods.

In the past few days I have been asking 911 racing customers which rod they prefer, seems like everyone is leaning towards the Pauter rods. No one I asked has seen a failure.