Ollie's in Santa Ana, California also does this service. Approximately $200 per set and about 2 week turnaround.

What is the contact info for Competition Engineering?

Never mind, found it

Saved by Google again!

When I pulled down my engine I had a couple of rockers I'd bought 'refurbished' but they were badly done, the rocker face was not paralell to the bushing, This is the most important thing. The hardening on rocker arms (and camshafts) is in the order of mm's thick so other than alignment refacing is not a problem

HTH
Neven

There is a treatment done to reground cams. I forget what they call it. It's dull looking. This is not done to the rockers as well when refurbishing for new cams?

I would never use old rockers on new cams, I don't care about what a Dremel can do. Too many sources for too many engines and camgrinders that say no.

The treatment is a phosphate coating called Parkerizing.
It is not done to the rocker arms.
The most common mistake when rebuilding rocker arms is having the shaft out of alignment with the pad. This causes edge loading between the camshaft lobe and the rocker arm pad, which reduces the contact point.
To be safe always use some prussian blue and wipe the face between the cam lobe and the rocker. 80% contact or better is passing.

John

Yes, thats exactly what I meant, I don't see the issue of new cams, new rockers, as long as the refurbishment of the rocker arms is done accurately.

What is the function of the phosphate coating (Parkerizing)?

Neven

The phosphate coating is done to help the parts break-in.
Almost any surface with direct metal to metal contact can be helped with parkerizing. Differential gear sets, transmission gear sets and camshafts are good examples.
Old motorcycle parts and firearms were parkerized to prevent corrosion.

Parkerizng creates a porous textured surface which allows oil to be absorbed and retained. The parkering wears off eventually...... I think I remember reading about Parkerizing at home too........You need to use some nasty acids and stainless tubs if I remember correctly.

Here are some poor quality pics of my reconditioned arms. I used 600 grit to get the initial surface off, then pollished with my dremel and some polishing compound. Like glass now.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092716527.jpg

Since the topic is rocker arms, does anyone have a proven method of taking off some important grams w/o compromising strength?

Sherwood

You just dremel it off wher you need it, Sherwood! :D

So, can any of the dremelists explain how you end up with a flat surface with a dremel, a surface that is parallel to the rocker shaft axis? That's what you ultimately need. Shiny isn't the main issue. There is no reference to the rocker arm / bushing axis if you machine that surface free hand.

George

I never said that I machined anything, only removed the haze and shined it up. I used a straight surface with the sand paper over it first, then pollish. The arms were true before removal.

Rocker Arm Specialists 800-747-2767 Gary or Blaine. $9.50 each for re-radius & new bushings. Turn around is 2 - 3 days.

If you have the rocker arms reconditioned does it mean that you must also use new rocker arm shafts?
-Scott

From those that I talked to at several shops, nope. And if you send the shafts with your rockers to Competition Engineering they only cahrge you $10 for the whole set to be pollished.
HTH

Noah,

I haven't had problems with reusing rocker arms that aren't refubished. Of course my engines lately are just for racing and don't have many miles on them. Having said that if you want to do "something" I'd scuff them up with some 600 grit sandpaper.

-Andy

I have rocker arms that have already been refurbished , $369 shipped for a set of 12, in case you go that way.

Cheers
Scott

for what it's worth, I just bought 12 rebuilt rocker arm assy's from Scott, and they are beautiful!!!! I haven't installed them, but it was nice to deal with Scott... Thanks...Brad