I guess I'm going to rebuild, what do you think?
 

I posted this on technical forum, should've been here:

I guess you need to be careful what you ask for. I've been thinking about what I'd build if I needed to get into the motor. Well, I think it may be time. It looks like the cylinder base gasket on #2 is going as I've got a small oil leak there, and a bit at the head/cylinder on #6. Nothing major, but not "right".

So, I'm thinking of this:
98mm p's & c's-3.4L upgrade (9.something compression)
cam regrind (964?)
Ported/polished heads
Extrude-Honed intake
Larger/bored throttle body
knife-edged crank, boat-tailed case
Raceware hardware
Upgrade valve train-springs, retainers
B&B headers/Fabspeed dual out muffler
Appropriate chip

I'm thinking this will make a strong motor, not too radical, not too tame. I'm trying to stay away from a $20K motor, although I know this isn't going to be cheap.

Now, I've got to decide if I've got the "stomach" to do it myself. I'm guessing (hoping?) $10-12K if I do the work (subbing out the machining).

With 98mm higher compression pistons, you should seriously consider twin plug ignition. Otherwise, your list looks pretty complete except for little items. I think you'll easily spend $12K for this project just in parts and machine work.

Don't forget a new clutch, engine mounts, and lots of little things.

Unless you are planning at running that thing at red line all the time feel free to save some money by skipping knifing the crank and boat tailing the case.

The money would be better spent on the twin plugging though you could also get by without it.

If you are planning on keeping the revs reasonable you can also skip on the new retainers too. Upgraded valve springs will be enough to keep the valves where they belong.

The 98mm pistons I'm thinking of getting (JE), are only 9.8:1CR. That won't necessitate the twin plugs IMO.

I've got a new clutch as well as all of the goodies needed to do the rebuild proper on the list.

Good point about the knife-edging, I just wanted to make as healthy a motor as possible without going too radical.

Ed, have you read through rdanes old posts about his 3.4? Your engine plans sound fairly similar to his.

Why the J&E's instead of the Mahle Max-Moritz pistons? I dont know how much money it would save, but the 95mm cylinders on your 3.2 could be bored out to 98mm. You would just need to score a set of the pistons then. There are several different sets of 98mm Mahle pistons so make sure you have the right part number before ordering anything. You should be able to do this engine for less than $12k.

Good luck!

I wasn't going to go twin plug on my rebuild since it's a low compression turbo engine with an almost flat piston. But, I was convinced that even though there is good flame propagation with the flat top piston, with 98mm to cover, twin plug starts to be needed. With 9.8 compression I would strongly recommend it. As long as you're spending, $12K, what's another thousand or so :)

You can go to the EBS website and get a feel for the machining costs and high performance valve springs. I think they charge about $700 to lighten and knife edge the crank.

Being on the borderline I think he can take it or leave it. If he adds some knock control he should be just fine.

I've done a 3.4 twin plug and it's fun but not cost effective compared to a 3.6.
-Chris

I'd thought about the 3.6, but for similar money, I'd get a new motor.

Do the numbers. I'm not saying you are wrong but I wouldn't just assume the 3.4 with the mods your want will be cheaper.
-Chris

I don't think you need stiffer valve springs unless you want to rev it higher than stock. High revs above stock are not good in a 3.2 anyway because of the weaker rod bolts.

-Andy

The JE pistons are available with the MM style dome on them aswell as well as their standard dome. You just have to specify that when ordering.

Jeff