Another tensioner question

[project 911]

I have a 1970 2.2 that is mostly stock, no problems.
I dicovered that the original tensioners have been replaced with billet solid units. From everything I've read, these are not the best idea for street use. The pressure fed upgrade won't be in the budget anytime soon, so my questions are:

Question 1.

Would I be better off leaving the solids in, or using a set of original hydraulic (non pressure fed) tensioners with safety collars?

Question 2.

The hydraulic tensioners I have came from a 71 2.2. They look clean, and make squishy noises when I push the shaft down. Is there any good way to tell if they are ok? I'm wondering because the engine they came from had a broken rocker arm, but no other damage that I have found.

Also, my manual says to take them apart and add oil, put most of it back together, then take them to your dealer for final priming and reassembly. Huh? Like I ever take anything to a dealer...

Any advice is appreciated.

[dtw]

What you have read about the billet tensioners is correct. Not sure if replacing them with used, questionable, old-school hydraulics is an improvement though. Consider a night job as a male gigolo so you can quickly save up $$ for the proper Carrera units.

[john walker's workshop]

a squishy tensioner is a bad tensioner. best stay with the solids for now. that's probably the reason the other engine had a broken rocker. tensioner fails, chain jumps a few teeth, valve hits piston, rocker breaks.

[project 911]

Thanks for the help guys.

Can the old hydraulics be rebuilt without special tools (or dealer)?

[Wayne 962]

I would spend the $$$ required to upgrade the car - otherwise, you may end up with engine problems later on when they fail. For example, you should replace the tensioners and the chain, as the solid tensioners can stretch it. If you simply install a regular chain, it may be too loose already and may skip a gear in the not too distant future...

-Wayne

[john walker's workshop]

the old tensioners can be rebuilt easily at home. you have to bleed them after the piston is installed, and before installing the top aluminum disc. this is done by filling the cup with oil and depressing the check ball by sticking a fine wire down the hole in the piston and pumping slowly to work out the air bubbles. i use a key tag wire. you're bled when there is no squishy motion in the piston. then back the side bleed screw out a bit, tilt the body so the screw is angled upward, and push the aluminum disc into the cup so air in the oil above the piston is pushed out the side bleeder. tighten the screw, and finish by installing the steel disc and snapring. one word of caution, the piston can pop out and poke to in the eye if it slips from your fingers before it's retainer ring is installed, so don't ever look straight down on it during assembly.