2.5L race motor build picture
 

There will be more to follow. But this is all I have right now to post. The thing looks sweet. I can't wait! More to come.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098650820.jpg

Another of the internals.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098719427.jpg

Hi Chad,

A couple of quick questions:

1. The case looks very clean and almost as if you'de had it media blasted. I've never seen an 911SC case this clean. Hpw'd you do it?

2. Are those Pelican Parts chain holders? I did my engine without them, and had to "fish" out the chains when I rotated the engine. These must make the work very easy?

3. Whose studs are they? I used the factopry 993 studs on the exhaust, but mine were not yellow like yours.

Pretty. I love a clean engine. What method did you use on the case? Wire bursh and solvent?

Andras, I think he is using an early Al case, not an SC case.

the studs have been yellow zinc(or cad, I can't quite tell from the pic) coated.

Andras,
The case was hot tanked and cleaned really good. The aluminum cases will clean up nicely. Allan at Aase did a great job cleaning it up. I think that media blasting a case would cause way to many problems. I do not know of anyone that would recommend that. All that "stuff" would get everywhere you do not want it.
I media blasted the inside of my race car. I had sand coming out a year after. My first time out in the new race car it was like a sandstorm in Iraq. When the race was over the whole tub of the car looked like a beach. I removed probably 5 pounds or more of sand that first run, 4 the next and so on.

Those are the basic chain/rod holders. Should be very similar to what is sold on this site.

The studs are OEM Porsche that were zinc coated with all the other hardware (engine tin bolts etc). We sent these off to get them coated. It will look great when its all finished

For reference- This is the exact same case when it was being built by a previous mechanic a few years back. It is no where near as clean as it is now. There is a big difference. Some guys take pride in their work. Some others just want to get it done. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098721306.jpg

looks great!
 

Hi Chad,
The photos look very nice, I'm starting on a similar project.
I just wanted to get your thoughts on zinc plating the studs.
I understand that the plating process can lead to Hydrogen embrittlement. I realize that careful baking after plating can eliminate this, but I'm not sure it's worth the risk on such a critical part?
They do look nice though!

????

Jeff

Hmm... Not sure, but these Aase guys have been doing it for awhile without any failures. Good question though.

just enough to be dangerous!
 

Hi Chad,
I talked to our QC guy at the fastner company we represent.
We need a plating expert to chime in.....
My understanding is that to have parts plated, they are first cleaned with HCL. This lets Hydrogen get into the steel.
The parts must be baked after plating to remove the Hydrogen. The baking must be done within a specified timeline.
He also told me that as the hardness increases, the parts are MORE suseptable to embrittlement. Anything over Rc30 needs to be baked. I suspect the studs are much harder than that.
I'm not saying that you have ruined your studs, but depending on the plating shop and their quaility control?????

Maybe I'm all wet as well???

I don't mean to come off a a jerk, just find this stuff interesting, as I am planning a similar rebuild, and love the look of your engine, but would hate to see you have a problem that could cause a failure.

Jeff

Allan may chime in here. They sent them off to be zinc coated. They have done it in the past. I'm not worried because they do it all the time.

I've never heard of a steel head stud breaking, except in the case of a thrown rod. I doubt the plating would make a difference.

I went by the shop yesterday. Allan hot tanks the case then uses a pneumatic wire brush under the parts cleaner solvent. Then cleans it again. Nice super shiney clean case.

Chad
Sorry if this has been covered but I would love to know the details of this buildup. What is the case, rods, pistons, cams and heads that you are using?

Thanks

No problem. Here they are.
The internals: 1967 alum case bored out spigots, piston squirters, oil bypass mod, bearing mod, Std/Std counterwieghted 2.0L crank, 2.0L rods, ARP rod bolts, Carrera oil pump, Boat tailed, Mooned cylinders, 89 MM Mahle cylinders replated, 89mm J&E pistons 10.5:1, GE80 profile cams, Stock 2.7 valves, Heads ported and polished, 37mm intake, 39mm exhaust, CIS ports welded up, EBS racing springs with ti retainers, 46mm PMO carbs with their new super tall manifolds, plus all new zinc dipped hardware and powder coated goodies :)

Chad,
that looks awesome. Want you to know that i'm putting the JE's to good use. Also i've been out in the garage wirebrushing the case of my 2.7 rebuild. It's almost as shiny as yours.

Al

Al,
Let's see your motor build thread soon :)

Coming to a BBS near you soon.

OOOOOOOOO:eek: , me likey, so pretty!

More Porsche porn. Almost there!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099184990.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099185003.jpg

Looks great Chad! Lets do some dicing on friday at Willow before the next event!

Thanks Mark. I think that may be the plan to break it in. I just have to get the towing\trailer logistics down (sold my tow truck and have not replaced yet)

Just got some new pictures!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099323341.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099323358.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099323367.jpg

Nice! So how do you plan on getting the "tow" thing sorted out??

I may just be throwing a hitch on the company car (shhhh. do not tell my boss) for the time being. Then pick something up in the off season.

That's the best solution I've heard.

Dude "Throw on a hitch" Please not the kind that u Haul hooks to the bumper. Car might end up in a ditch

I ordered a real class 3/4 hitch. No worries. Just have to find a way to expense it :)

You can use my other trailer....... You can expense that too.
Only $220 to use it..... Hey maybe we can trade for something?????

LOL

One more pic before the shroud (It is being painted black) goes on.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099667771.jpg

Here is the Dyno sheet at the Rear Wheels . (for Searches)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1124571983.jpg

Nice Chad
 

Well Chad,

Your 2.5L has about 57 more HP then my 2.0L and you are about 100 lbs. Lighter then me as well.


This should make for a fun race in Buttonwillow.

What was JP's Motor putting out????

JP was busy and could not come. 57 more HP? Won't believe it unless I see it :) (Wink)

OK. Maybe 55 more HP.

I have 162 at the rear wheels. with 158 ft lbs. of torque.

My stock, tired, 2.0S engine made 130 RWHP on a Dynojet. Those are some impressive numbers you guys are getting.

TT

Beautiful motor and some impressive numbers. Congratulations!

Do you think the dip at 4400 can be improved with jetting or is it just the nature of the engine design? i.e. 2.5L, GE80, and large ports.

Thanks-
I asked the same question to the motor builder who was there with his car. It's just the aggressive cams causing that. They are getting ready to start their magic. Since this is a race motor..... I am never at 4400 RPM and never notice it.

Chad,
You set the bar high.

Al

Beautiful motor! What kind of budget would it take to replicate this motor not including the labor from the builder?

Here is the cost breakdown assuming you already have a Aluminum case with all the basic mods and cams.

Main bearings 125
Rod bearings 75
Intermediate shaft bearing 45
Gasket set 250
timing chains 80
chain rails 39
46mm PMO Carbs New 2800.00
J&E custom pistons 900.00
oil return tubes 26
rebuild rods 132
balance rods 35
port/polish heads 39/37mm 500
boat tail mains 200
moon cylinders 85
weld injector ports cis 180
surface heads 120
hot tank, polish, mag crank 60
arp rod bolts 155
valve guides 48
drain plate with drain plug added 25
rocker arm shaft seals RSR 31.20
piston ring set 125
flywheel bolts 66
distributer drive gear 22
Gold zinc all bolts/hardware 25.00
fan belt 5
oil line clamps 2.50
gloss black paint 5.50

Total not including labor $6162.20

-Chad

Thanks Chad!
This may be out of your area of expertise, but would this be compatable with a 2.2 S MFI system?
Dave

I know nothing about MFI except that my old 2.2S mfi system had a mind of it's own :). Should work if you have the pump changed/worked on.